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35/36 Ford pickup under cab wood

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by F-head, Oct 13, 2012.

  1. F-head
    Joined: Oct 20, 2007
    Posts: 1,482

    F-head
    Member

    anyone have pix or measured drawing of the under cab wood blocks for 35/6 pickup so we can make a set .thanks in advance
    B
     
  2. 55 dude
    Joined: Jun 19, 2006
    Posts: 9,357

    55 dude
    Member

    if it aint stock just use some box tubing.
     
  3. the cooch
    Joined: Sep 27, 2012
    Posts: 8

    the cooch
    Member

    if no one has dimensions, will take some pics of originals in place and measure as much as possible, but they'll be on board till next winter...
     
  4. AllSteel36
    Joined: Jul 20, 2009
    Posts: 560

    AllSteel36
    Member
    from California

    These were sent to me awhile back via the HAMB

    Kinda hard to decipher, but I have a good set I'll be comparing to.
     

    Attached Files:

  5. cadillacoffin
    Joined: May 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,128

    cadillacoffin
    Member

    anyone with a pdf for the 32 pickup?
     
  6. nobuckets
    Joined: Jul 18, 2005
    Posts: 137

    nobuckets
    Member
    from austin, tx

    Allsteel - is there another page to that PDF with the other wood part? It only has part B on it...
     
  7. AllSteel36
    Joined: Jul 20, 2009
    Posts: 560

    AllSteel36
    Member
    from California

    Danged if there isn't!!
     

    Attached Files:

  8. cvstl
    Joined: Apr 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,504

    cvstl
    Member
    from StL MO

  9. 53choptop
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 1,205

    53choptop
    Member

    What a coincidence, I just finished cutting out these patterns using cvstl's plans (first set of plans from a year ago) from 2x3-3/16 square tubing. I could not justify paying the 200 bux for wood mounts, on top of that because I redid the entire floor I can change the top mounting points on the steel tube. I didn't have time to weld everything together, been fighting a cold bit ill post up pics soon.

    BTW Thanks again cvstl!!!
     
  10. cvstl
    Joined: Apr 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,504

    cvstl
    Member
    from StL MO

    Choptop. I'd love to see some pics of what you came up with.
     
  11. F-head
    Joined: Oct 20, 2007
    Posts: 1,482

    F-head
    Member

    super cool,
    thanks so much for posting this
    B
     
  12. 53choptop
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 1,205

    53choptop
    Member

    I finished these up last night, threw some POR15 on there and set them back into the truck. The pictures are not the best but you get the picture.

    Using cvstl patterns (THANKS AGAIN BTW) I made these out of 3x2 x 3/16 square tubing. I pie cut the tubing to get the correct dimensions. I printed out the template on our plotter here at work so I had exact dimensions to work with. It made it super easy when cutting the metal, I would cut and place it on the template to check fit. PLEASE NOTE if you look at the plans the mount starts off at 3 1/4 inches and tapers down to 3/4, what I did was reduce the height of the mount by 1/4 of an inch to accommodate a 1/4 strip of welt/cushion/strip whatever you want to call it. I wanted some some cushion between the cab and mounts. What I ended us using was an old conveyor belt, it was perfect, 1/4 inch thick and layered with reinforcement. Cut the belt into small strips to fit between the cab and the mount.

    The mount recesses were made to accommodate my floor bracing, the cuts were kind of crude because I cut it with my torch, but all I needed was them to clear the bracing, that's why buying wood mounts and them having to still cut them some more did not work for me. I made these in 2 pieces (like the template shows), set them in the truck bolted them down with 1/2 inch bolts (I made new bolt holes). Once bolted I tacked both pieces together. Took them out of the truck and did the final welding. They look "off center" because by floor is not like the original, all the metal work I did to the floor was done by using pictures.

    I do admit not the prettiest, but they work and are super solid. The contour with the frame and cab really nice.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Oct 23, 2012
  13. AllSteel36
    Joined: Jul 20, 2009
    Posts: 560

    AllSteel36
    Member
    from California

    My repro ones (from late 60's/early 70's) have belting between the frame and the wood block...roughly 1/4inch as well...keep this in mind...you may need to add some more to make up for the 1/4 you took out.
     
  14. 53choptop
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 1,205

    53choptop
    Member

    Allsteel, so you have 1/4 inch belting between frame and mount AND another 1/4 in between the mount and cab?
     
  15. AllSteel36
    Joined: Jul 20, 2009
    Posts: 560

    AllSteel36
    Member
    from California

    No...mine have just the one welting between frame and wood...the cab sat directly on the wood.

    ***uming mine was done correctly (taking a guess here...really not sure) your cab may sit a 1/4inch too low now making the hood side not line up, since you took a 1/4inch out.

    Come to think out it though, I just pulled another '36 cab off a frame a few weeks ago, the wood crumbled out and I don't recall any remnants of welting.

    Now that I've thoroughly confused ya;)
     
  16. 53choptop
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 1,205

    53choptop
    Member

    I got it now, I was under the impression the cab ONLY sat on the wood with no belting on either on top or bottom, the reason I made everything 1/4 inch shorter was to add belting between the cab and mounts. I did not want metal on metal (cab). When you account the mount and belting that brings the measurements to exactly what is on the template. So ***uming there should be belting between the frame and mounts. I would still be short 1/4 inch.

    If need be, I can add another 1/4 inch of belting between the frame and mounts, that would be no problem at all, I just need to account for that when I buy the bolts.

    Good to know. Thanks.
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2012

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