Replace the vent windows with clear lexan. Drill the lexan to accomadate a Snap-On tool box lock that uses a Coke machine type of key. Position the hole and lock ***embly close enough to the vent window post that the tab on the tool box lock latches behind the post. Obviously, you unlock the vent window, push it open, reach thru the vent window and lift up on the inside door handle to get in. No electonics to go bad. Works good, Lasts a long time and wont break the bank doing it.
Since: A. it's mostly hidden B. it's low draw C. **** everyone else, it's MY car I'll probably be going this route http://www.avsontheweb.com/home.php?cat=138 not really trad, but I'd rather be able to get inside of my car while it's raining than worry about what some other guy thinks about what I have INSIDE my damned doors. Plus lexan scratches and looks like ***. I'd still do that, though.
The man is pretty strict on this kind of mod down here, requiring certification for it to be legal, but after much research and testing my recipe was: VW/Audi latches and strikers, Autolocks are just a knock off of Euro 'burst-proof' latches Solenoids from the 86 Jag that gave up its front end, these things are HEAVY DUTY and look just like the ones you see in the pricier kits some remote gas door and trunk pull cable setups from the wrecker, the ones from station wagons are a decent length a handful of trick hardware and small pieces from the bicycle shop, the bits used to operate the brakes and gear shifters are pretty cool. a quality car alarm with remote key fobs and circuits/****ons for at least two circuits (wired to operate left and right solenoids) The setup was pretty similar to that RRT article posted earlier and the key points were: *try to mount your solenoid with the path of least resistance, just like any good linkage it needs to be pulling in the line of travel not on an angle. Brake line or copper tubing is good for redirecting if you can't mount the solenoid with a straight pull. *any actuating rods or cables should have a little bit of slack rather than being under tension, the solenoids prefer a little room to get their yank on. Building in some adjustability can save some headaches * make sure your solenoid setup is only operating the latch, not struggling to operate your spring loaded internal door handle at the same time. * I was really disappointed with how the Autoloc install kit that I used kind of expects you to mount the latch and striker right on the inside edge of the door meaning you have to notch out your door card and end up with the striker really close to the inside edge of the B pillar sticking where it will catch your friends jacket or skirt as they climb out of the back seat. Picky? maybe but why should something I'm making not be at least as good as a factory setup? customsing and Hot Rodding's about making things better isn't it. If I was going to do it again I would have created a bulge on the door and recess in the pillar just like a factory door jamb. *for safety reasons make sure the circuit that operates your solenoids is only live when the car is out of gear or the ignition is off. *I'm becoming more and more wary of aftermarket products/kits, finding that tried and true OEM parts are often cheaper and better quality, even if they're scavenged from the wrecking yard.
I use mechanical screw pulls in all of mine, used to sell as Ball Actuators, I know funny as hell, I like 'em better than solenoids, you can get them for dirt cheap now on fleabay
I have done it several times, with good results. I like to recess the popper into the door jam in the lower ( latch side ) corner or into the door itself in the lower ( hinge side ) corner if the door is off. Use a good name brand kit for silonoids and brain (im sure you will ) and for a fail safe, route a lawn mower throttle cable/ bike brake cable from the latch thur the door into the jam and under the car. I only had to use mine once but I was glad I had it. POPPERS are a mechanical spring with a plunger to push the door out when the silonoid is activated releasing the latch. 2 different things. Also, My favorite way is to shave the handle and use just a key lock ( like the recessed ones on a chevy astro van), the key lock is recessed into the sheet metal, then make a rod go from the key to the open pull on the latch, so when you turn the key it opens the latch. No eletronics to fail or batteries to die or cables to break, just the key is doing the work of the handle and the key is secure. Godspeed MrC "Do a search "- Cl***ic!
If you're willing to do the work involved in my prefered method, you'll like the end result. On my 64 Rivi, I installed solenoid operated, bearclaw latches, and the ***ociated door poppers in the "B" pillar, instead of the door. This allowed the use of a solid release rod to the trunk, or if desired, to the rear wheel well. This eliminates any problems with wires, and cables, breaking or failing, from continual movement between the body and door. This also works very well on suicide door applications, allowing release rod installation under the rocker panel, in the front wheel well, or under the hood. I also prefer doing the trunk latch the same way, if using a solenoid.
Best cables iv found are an odyssey brand (BMX bike brand) "linear slick cable" they can be bent really tight and still have heaps of free movement.
I bought my car with handles shaved but no way of opening from outside. I installed a set of solenoids from the Hoffman group, I believe. I do drive my my car a lot (5/6,000 miles a year). Both solenoids fell apart after about 2 years of summer driving. I thought it was strange. I use the drivers door at least 10 times as much as the p***enger side. It was my first install and never saw any others. It turns out they were not tight enough the first time and it would have to be popped twice to open door. I bought a second more expensive set to replace these and made sure I had no slack in the cables and they work much better.. Last weekend after about 2 yeas of use I was locked out of the car at a car wash. Solenoids would click but not release latch. This winter I am installing different doors with outside door handles. I hope your experience is better. I did not install a back up cable replace because my car is a had top and a coat hanger is kept in the trunk and car is easy to unlock.
OK I skimmed through and may have missed it but what about lincoln ****ons? I know there is an age gap but I did see a set on a rivi at billetproof and it looked pretty damn good. I am using the ones cool hand on here made for my 54 they will actuate the latches mechanically if I can figure it out or electronically if I cant. As for solenoids ( thats was the original ? I have had no problems with the mr. gasket ones but it has been awhile since I have used them.)
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