Jag Jaguar IRS into a 46' International Harvester

All of this is common knowledge of course.
My argument was about the forming of a triangle with arm mounted forward and inboard as is very common on solid mounted diffs.
Even highly recommended in the NZ code of practice.

Thanks for your in put all the same.

 

Did you get that XJ12 on CL in Azle?

 

As the trailing arm rises and lowers the end at the hub moves in an arc, it does not move straight up an down. This will pull on the hub causing binding. Like I said as it rises above level it will pull and as it lowers below level it will pull. Very pliable bushings that give enough or a telescoping arm could keep the binding from happening.

 

First, beautiful truck MLG. What were the 3.54's out of?

I understand that zman. Forming the A-arm/triangle with the trailing arm will cause the end of it which in all reality could be welded to the end of the wishbone, to move in the same arc. The wishbone does not change length throughout it's travel, it just moves in an arc. The trailing arm is just part or the wishbone helping it form the A-arm and too will follow the same arc. If the outer end is not positioned inline with the inner pivot, then yes I would see it binding. I think the key is having it pivot on the same axis as the wishbone.

 

Sorry for the crude diagram. This is exactly what I am seeing. The black line being the inner pivot. Red being the Jag wishbone and the attached trailing arm forming an A-arm and all rotating on the same axis. Wouldn't this all just rotate together without issue?

 

That should indeed. Nice.

 

Were you thinking of something else? Maybe the end connected to the hub carrier? I'm sure I wasn't explaining it correctly before but hopefully the picture kind of shows what I'm seeing in my nugget.

 

The heim joint at the forward end of the rod has to be straight with the rod, or the heim joint will wear out real quick.....
angle the front bracket the same as the rod.
That is the giant a-arm I was talking about. a picture is worth a thousand words, good drawing...

 

I made it that way so it was easier to visualize all 3 connection points of the A-arm(wishbone & trailing arm) rotating on the same line. It took me forever to understand what others were telling me until this image popped in my head and I saw this install. While not what I'm doing, it helped me finally see what I doodled up above.

 

Maybe he did it like that because the rods are so short? They don't look anywhere near 40" long......

 

I'm with you on the drawing as that is how I envisaged it too.

Have a nice day guys and keep pushing the Jag rears. lol

 

383 stroker with a 350 trans. Its scary fast and hard to stop so I go slow and leave lots of room between me and the other cars. I took it on a 250 mile road trip the other day and it about beat the **** out of me, those old farmers were tough.

 

Maybe it's worth looking at what Snow White Ltd do with their Jag kits - they have been doing them for decades and have one of the nicest Jag rear mounting kits out there....



More here in the ch***is section:

www.snowwhiteltd.com/galleries/ch***is/ch***is.html

 

Not for sure what the 3.54 came off of, didn"t think to ask but I will. John said he had been collecting for years and all of the parts came from England in container when he bought out his partner. He was looking for awhile and callled and had 3.31 but I had to have lower.
Milton

 

I don't see that there's even a question that that can be done.

Is it necessary?

Well, it will take engine and braking torque, and some cornering load, off the differential mount.

The degree to which it will take load off the diff mounts is dependent on how rigidly the link is bushed at the ends.

If you look at the later XJ40/X300 setup, you'll note that Jag went the opposite direction, they ditched the trailing arms entirely so all loads are p***ed into the center section by the lower control arms, but the center section loads are now spread widely around the rear structure.

 

Agreed.

 

So $$$ has held up my progress but I've used the time to keep planning it out. I emailed Snow-White to get a price on their crossmember. It was over $300 so I replied asking if they would sell me the top plate mounting setup and also the coil-over mounts they use on their crossmember....... never heard back. So I'm back to fabbing up my own. here is where I'm at. I cut an oversized top plate out of 3/8" plate. I can trim it down and pretty it up once it's been setup. Made a template for the mounting hole. They are 4 1/4" x 3 5/8". My top plate is 10.5" x 5.75" I will bush the top plate to the crossmember and the crossmember will be bushed at the frame rails. Here is a mock up of what I'm doing. I am placing an order for all the bushings with DOM sleeves and such to get it done.

The Torque Stays will have a Clevis on the Diff Tie Plate and bushed at the frame.
Radius Rods will be bushed at the wishbone (like OEM) and a Spherical Heim at the forward crossmember I plan to build that will also have a driveshaft safety loop on it.
The rear Tie Plate will have support rods that connect up to the Top Plate.

 

Iam also thinking of adding a couple of support bars to triangulate the crossmember in the frame. I would use standard Heims on the crossmember just inside of the frame mounts, and use bushes on the rear crossmember. Sounds like a good idea to me but I think alot ; )

 

I hope you didn't give up....

 

Nope. The weather has been nasty so I havn't been out working on it. I also had a mishap in my C5 Corvette so my spare money is going to parts to fix it. I'm also working Sunday through Friday/60hr weeks right now at UPS. No time for anything right now. Will resume after xmas. There's a local Off Road Fab place called Ruff Stuff Specialties that is gonna help me out with the bushings and such that I need for the crossmember. Once I get a chance to get up the hill to where they are, I can get back to it. Stay tuned.

 

Look at snowwhiteltd.com they have alot of info you can download about your install, you can also get the crossmember from them. I hope this helps.

 

If you read the previous few posts, you will notice that has already been discussed.

How about following site protocol and posting an introduction for you first post? Just a lot friendlier knowing who you are.

 

Okay I figure I can jump in as my rear end is in the thread a few times!

The link to the tbucketeers post is my bucket. I ran that setup for about 4000 miles this last summer without issue. No binding, no issues at all. Here are my settings.

Pinion set at 0 with the frame at ride height. If you set the pinion with the frame at the wrong height it will throw off the pinion angle, though it would take a lot of difference to screw things up.

I left the trailing arms with the bend in the end as it was made out of .218 DOM so was strong enough. They ended up being 38 inches long with the heims installed.

Local jag shop told me, lower arms parallel loaded. So two people and a full tank of gas. So they will point up a bit when unloaded.

Since you removed it from the cage, you will need the front tie bars to the frame to support the load the solid mount will take.

If you are running it in a lighter car, swap the stock sedan springs (which weighs 4000+) for e-type springs (weighs around 2500). I did this for my bucket and it made a huge improvement in the ride quality.

Looking at your original pics from a couple years ago, I would have left it in the cage, bought a couple transmission mounts, bolted them to the outer upper flange of the cage and mounted the whole cage to your frame right at the kick up. From the pics it almost looked like a bolt in.

If you want, in the albums in my sig there are a bunch of pics of how I mounted mine.

GL and don't give up, its worth the extra h***le!!

 

Here I go again not following "Protcol" but I have never been much for following rules. Get your self a copy of Street Rod Builder magazine April 2005, there is a 12 page step by step installation. Good stuff

 

My last post pretty much sums up my plan. I'm building my own xmember. Doing it like my diagram above. It's just on hold as my funds are going towards my Vette right now. I'll get back on the Jag install soon enough.

 

There are more jag install threads on the HAMB than you could throw a stick at.
No reason to go anywhere else for the best info around.

 

Agreed, and there is a lot of conflicting information floating around the web. This thread covers quite a few of those points and clarifies the trickier geometry issues.


Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad

 

Agreed. Without this site, I wouldn't have attempted nor even thought to use a Jag front and rear suspension. The best Jag IFS thread on the Net is on this site. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=451036
That thread is what got me fired up to find a donor XJ to raid for parts.
It gave me the direction I needed on my build rather than going in all directions! lol I've found a ton of good install info out there by searching for it, but this site is as easy as simply starting a thread and asking questions. That's about what I did with this thread.

 

For my two cents, tooooo...
http://s28.photobucket.com/albums/c... Mid May 2011/Rebuilding the JAGUAR rear end/

 

Thanks for sharing.