Sounds like crossed plug wires. Recheck em Try this for good high zinc oil http://www.jegs.com/i/Valvoline-Racing/949/VV850/10002/-1?parentProductId=761759
Install new spark plugs ... Been there and done that Had a good running BBC and the HEI died. Tried getting it to run before I knew the module had died. Put in a spare good HEI and it still would not crank. Changed the plugs and presto ... problem solved. Spark Plugs are inexpensive Go ahead and change them.
Theres nothing wrong with NGK plugs, ran them in the nitrous car(11s), and now in the twin turbo motor(10s). They will melt quicker than autolites, ground strap is a tad smaller. I would relash the valves from scratch, bet they are too tight holding valves open. Good luck.
thanks for the advice. pretty sure i loaded up the plugs by moving in and out of garage and not bringing up to temp. ordered a new set a tad hotter and will keep my fingers crossed.will definitely dump rotella befor putting car on the road. thanks again
I would have thought Blueprint would have provided the NGK R5672A-8 sparkplug in that engine and you have to gap them out of the box. With that distr i'd go .035 as others reccommended. With cranking compression at 130# you don't have a healthy engine - something wrong. Valves are lashed to tight? That would also explain the 'popping' thru carb and exhaust. That carb dosn't like fuel pressure either - 5 1/2lbs is about tops with them, might want to check that too. I mention this because you need to figure out the original problem. You are trying to get the engine to fire off but you need to sort out what caused the problem in the first place.
Rotella is not "bad" oil, just not what it used to be when we lost zinc in conventional oil. You had your zddp additive so I wouldn't panic. Don't forget Kendall "Nitro" oils. They're race oils in straight viscosity like 30-40-50. Good stuff for mineral oil use. I too am a believer in Autolite plugs. "REAL" Autolites, not the Motorcraft Asian versions. Every other brand would fail in my race BBC, Autolites would clean up when they rarely needed it, they'd last over 100 rounds of racing. My favorite plug was a 24 or 25 (too many cobwebs to remember exactly!). Good luck, and I hope you tell us what it was.
plugs blueprint recomends are ngk 2817 gapped at 045. will go over rockers again today but on initial check it took about 1/4 turn to take the play out of pushrods. im hoping this is a case of to much choke and not enough run time. ordered ngk2771 which is a little hotter.
pajet, let me give you some VALVE LASH advice as well as those watching at home. You can decide if this applies to you and your engine. I have spoke about this many times, and everyone seems to agree. New Hydraulic lifters for many years now are outsourced over seas we all know that, some folks call them white box lifters. Even one made here in the US, might have internals from overseas even though the body of the lifter and the ***embly has taken place here, that said............ When adjusting, you can not any longer use the old day system of turning the pushrod until it stops turning and then the additional 1/2 or 3/4 turn. You have to now use a distinct up an down checking of the pushrod for the " zero lash " setting before the additional pre=load, are you with me. The internals of these new white box lifters are not as strong and not as pronounced when turning the pushrod for the zero lash point. It is VERY easy to exceed what you think is zero lash, and actually you have depressed the plunger well into it's travel. By using the pushrod up and down method you can be certain with practice that you are at the top of the plunger travel and not compressing it before adding the additional lash. Internally the lifter plunger might have .120"-.180" of travel, this is only a 1/8 - 3/16 of an inch. You only want to add preload say 1/3 of that or .040 - .060" of an inch.
Sir, the .045 gap is when you get the engine complete or dressed from Blueprint and it has a HEI distributor. Unless MSD recommends otherwise you should gap at .035" I know of the MSD ready to run, but haven't had one on the dyno or in use as of yet. Be cautous when going hotter in heat range with the spark plugs, I think that you shouldn't right now, because it's just a band aide for a totally different issue, such as fuel or valve lash.
yes im with you. used the "spin" method. will go over them again. 1 make sure valve is closed. 2 loosen rocker to get up and down play in pushrod. 3tighten rocker until play is just removed. at this point should i add 1/4 turn or leave as is
Sir, don't just adjust play out of the pushrods after the engine has sat. This is typical of the new lifters I explained below. Adjust them as I stated and then leave them alone. They will appear loose after bleeding down, and they pump back up instantly with oil pressure.
Use this procedure to adjust: Remove all spark plugs. EX valve start to open- adjust the In valve. When the IN valve opens and is almost closed- adjust the EX valve. Be sure to turn engine over in DIRECTION OF RUNNING ROTATION. Use this method and go down the line adjusting both valves on cylinders: 1357, other side 2468.
or go see this http://static.trickflow.com/global/images/instructions/dp-8a instruction sheet.pdf Use the following adjustment order for all types of camshafts. This is the easiest method to use since it requires only one turn of the crankshaft. See Figure 3 for cylinder layout. A) With the #1 piston at TDC on the exhaust stroke, adjust the exhaust rockers of cylinders #2, #5, #,6 and #7, then the intake rockers of cylinders #3, #4, #6, and #8. B) Turn the crankshaft 360 degrees (1 full turn) until the #1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. Adjust the exhaust rockers of cylinders #1, #3, #4, and #8, then the intake rockers of cylinders #1, #2, #5, and #7. C) Leave the #1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke for the rest of the re***embly.
Generally you should run and additional 1/2 a turn past what you know is zero up and down play in the pushrod. Nothing is set in stone here, as experienced engine builders varie the amount for different reasons and outcomes. *****Be sure to follow my other post for adjustment procedure.*******
one more way to say it No. 1 cylinder, the setting may be adjusted Ex: 1-3-4-8. In: 1-2-5-7. Then turn the engine one more complete revolution which will bring up. No. 6 cylinder, the valves may be adjusted: Ex 2-5-6-7 In 3-4-6-8
Could you have some debris in the carb fuel inlet needle and seat causing the rich and/or flooding condition? Greg
Just verify the plugs you have spec'd, they are short reach tapered seat? I recall some bbc using this plug and i was surprised, i would normally expect to see a 3/4" reach, 14mm gasket plug (i spec'd one in my earlier post). Is it an aluminum head motor?
I believe the 496 is available either cast iron oval port and aluminum rectangular port. I don't know which the O/P actually has.
Yep, why is it the late Chebbie stuff seems to get a p***, while other stuff gets nit-picked? 65 and older would mean nothing newer than a 327 or 396- no 350, 400, 402, 427, 454, LS or late crate engines. These questions have been asked quite a few times, and ignored
I would like to believe the Mods acknowledge that the discussion could be applied to ANY HAMB friendly Chevrolet engine, and we all know how many SBC there are and very accepted here on the HAMB. I'm sure the Mods would squash a LS thread, and that is without question. IMHO, Our mods do a wonderful job on the forum.
update. thanks to all and hats off to tradition racing. adjusted valves as per his advice. every one needed backed off about 3/4 turn. i swear that i did not tighten any over 1/4 turn after getting motor from blueprint. used old plugs gapped at 035 and all is well
we have found that allllll edelbrock carbs like no more that 3.5 lbs pressure, if they ron ok at more they will run real well with less. turn it down to 3 and try it, just sayin, we put press reg on all cars with it i even have one with two 500s on it and down it runs great
I didn't see ANYTHING "traditional" about the engine in this thread- NOTHING. Except you're apparently a Chebbie fan. Rules or not?
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