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Can I use a torch to help remove leaf spring bushings?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by BOOB, Oct 16, 2012.

  1. BOOB
    Joined: Oct 1, 2008
    Posts: 551

    BOOB
    Member
    from Taylor, TX

    Original rear leafs on my '55 Chevy. The outer sleeve on the front bushing is extremely thin and 100% bonded to the leaf eye. After going at it for an hour with an air hammer/chisel and tons of PB Blaster I have hardly made any progress. At best I've only managed to remove an area the size of a dime. The springs have surface rust but are in good shape. I would like to try some heat on the bushing but its so thin and well bonded to the eye that I'm afraid I will transfer too much heat to the spring. Is this a good idea? I dont want to risk damaging the spring's integrity.
     
  2. BOBCRMAN
    Joined: Nov 10, 2005
    Posts: 846

    BOBCRMAN
    Member
    from Holly

    Rubber fire will not bother spring integrity. I burn out A frame and spring bushings every week.
     
  3. 35desoto
    Joined: Oct 6, 2009
    Posts: 775

    35desoto
    Member

    Ive used heat in the past and by being careful never heated the spring to a high enough level to do any damage. You need to heat the eye bush rather than the spring - I know it will burn and stink and all the rest but it is an alternative to remove them by brute force. i jave seen guys get a hacksaw blade and cut into the bush from the inside out but it is a long and tedious process
     
  4. Johnny Wishbone
    Joined: Aug 10, 2009
    Posts: 314

    Johnny Wishbone
    Member

    So the springs are out of the car and you are trying to change the bushings? I am pretty sure they wrap the springs around the bushings when they make the springs, and the hole after you get the old bushing out is not perfectly round. Or am I misunderstanding the question?

    JW
     
  5. 38Chevy454
    Joined: Oct 19, 2001
    Posts: 6,787

    38Chevy454
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Springs are tempered around 400F, after quenching. So as long as you keep the temp to 400 or less you will be fine.
     
  6. Engine man
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,480

    Engine man
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    I ***ume you already have the rubber and inner bushing out. I use a hacksaw to cut the outer bushing. There is usually a gap where the end of the loop meets the leaf. When the outer bushing is cut, it will peel out. Depending on how tight the fit is, you might have to make 2 cuts.
     
  7. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,193

    bct
    Member

    ive done it with the cutting torch you can watch it melt away without even hitting the oxy. easier to do than type.
     
  8. BOOB
    Joined: Oct 1, 2008
    Posts: 551

    BOOB
    Member
    from Taylor, TX

    The rubber is out. The first thing I did is slice the the side of the bushing but it wont peel away, i'ts bonded that well. I've only been able to chisel a small piece off. I'm hoping some heat will make it separate. Keeping it under 400 will be tough.

    A new pair of springs is only about $250 but besides these being the originals the car sits perfectly and I dont want to have to deal with new springs settling and altering the ride height.
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2012
  9. BOOB
    Joined: Oct 1, 2008
    Posts: 551

    BOOB
    Member
    from Taylor, TX

    So I heated up the bushing and was able to get it out. Everything went together nicely.
     
  10. Checksix!
    Joined: Nov 11, 2007
    Posts: 47

    Checksix!
    Member

    put the bottom center of the eye on concrete with the open end up on a sturdy bench, hit the top center of the eye with a sledge and the eye will open some for each hit. if you get it too loose for the new bushing, stand the spring on end and close it by hitting the open end of the eye to close it. I did springs for years, it works every time.

    Dave
     
  11. Checksix!
    Joined: Nov 11, 2007
    Posts: 47

    Checksix!
    Member

    sorry, on concrete OR a sturdy bench...
     

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