T on A frame??

Been looking to no avail (dont know if I'm using poor key words in the search or what) but am wondering if anyone has pics, tips, tricks, ideas, etc. of putting a T ('27 roadster specifically) on an A frame...
thanks-

 

Dan
I don't have any pics but I do know that the swap was as popular in its time as the A on a duece ch***is. I don't believe that there is anything magical about the swap it should be pretty straight forward.

 

I thought it was pretty common...
here is what I am thinking; I have the T on a 2X3 square tube frame, a '34 ford pickup with no frame, and access (maybe) to an A frame...
am thinking I could put the T on the A and the '34 on the square tube frame just to avoid building or finding a complete frame for the '34...
thoughts, ideas, etc.?
thanks-

 

T is an easy fit on the A.

 

Henry did not know if the new for 28 A bodies would be ready in time so he made sure the 26/7s would fit. IMHO one of the best looking hotrods is a 27 roadster on A rails with A fenders and aprons.

 

I would do it, but that 34 will look better without the suicide frontend. Maybe sell the box frame fo a more traditional style frame for the 34. Or you could even stub the box frame with a traditional front crossmember and horns.

 

Silver City Special...

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=723050&highlight=silver+city+special

 

Wouldn't the T frame be a little narrow for the '34?

Tman hit the nail right on the head by the way.

 

A 26-26 body fits on a Model A frame like it was made for it. The only area that needs some mods is that protrusion that the T firewall has. I chopped off that part of the firewall and made a flat one, but the longish sbf still goes back under the firewall a few inches.

My 27 body is gl***, but dimensionally the same as you would be encountering, and my frame is also an original Model A. Here is a picture from when I was rebuilding the car to give you some idea of the fit.

Don

 

Dan,

Here's a link to mine. Like everyone has said, it's a super easy and common deal. They almost line up with the A's mounting holes in the frame. I just made 4 angle body mounts with rubber between them and the frame. It's simple!!

The Dust Bowl Spl.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=681152

 

Thank you for making this thread I've been trying to figure out what I'm going to do frame wise with my 24 T build. I've been stuck between using the T frame, using a A frame or making a frame for it.

 

Wouldn't the T frame be a little narrow for the '34?

was thinking if I do go that route I would channel the '34 over the tube T frame...
kinda hate to cut the floor though as its in real good shape...

 

YES! lets see more pics. I've had this going through my head for a little while now. The bodyI planned to use for my Av8 it junk, and I heard of a T body wrapped in newspaper.

 

I've heard this for years but have never seen a source...is there do***entation to support this claim?

 

You shorten the back of the A frame where it tappers so you could slip the rear half into the front half & make up the T wheelbase if your running fenders

 

That is, if you're running Model T fenders.

 

Ford stopped production entirely for 4 months getting the A ***embly line ready. If he wanted to use T bodies he could have done it. This strikes me as an urban legend or maybe just ********.

 

I just took my T on an A frame OFF of the A frame. See my signature if you're interested.

Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app

 

I am also tossing up whether to stick with my T ch***is or use an A - so an A has a 103.5 inch wheel base and a T has a 100 inch wheel base. Is the extra 3.5 inches forward of the firewall on an A - so that the wheel arch on a T body sits correctly over the rear axle of an A? I'm guessing here - Is an A bonnet (hood) 3.5 inches longer than a T bonnet (hood). I dont know - am I stating the obvious?.

shoot me down.

 

Here's one

 

I made up the difference with a longer bonnet on my Tourer.

 

Here's my '27 touring on an a frame. Needs to lower the rear.

 

Don't cut the entire floor, just make some channels in it for the frame. Picture this the fram sticks up through the floor and the rest of the floor stays stock. Its more work and may not work at all but it is something to think about.

The other oprion is to be careful when you cut the floor and cut it as close to the body as possible then out the original floor back in place with whatever mods as are necessary to make it right. I did that with an Effy floor once, I had to notch the floor for the doors to fit but the rest of the floor just needed a little filler to make up for the cut. It looked as original as could be when finished.

 

I haven't measured or anything but I'm inclined to agree with hotrodfil. I'm doing the same with both my touring car and roadster.

 

Here's an in progress picture of the bonnet top using T sides. I made longer sides to match eventually. Other tricks? Welding two tubes into the front corners of the subrails to line up with existing frame holes, cutting away the footboard are to save bending pedals and gain some foot room.