When a table is unavailable, what kind of stands do you use for chassis building?

BOOB · Oct 25, 2012

I really like this setup

31Vicky with a hemi · Oct 25, 2012

**** said: ↑

Thi me thinking. I could build something similar to this with detachable rv jacks so it will be as light as possible and could be stored on its side taking up a minimal amount of space. With the table pictured here, built with similar size tubing, set up perfectly level and square with the cross rails on top of the side rails, as pictured, and welded on all four sides of the joint, I dont see any reason why it would flex at all, do you?
Click to expand...

I have a table, its multi purpose but I built it on purpose to build my car.
It had to be both Flat closed surface and open, permanent and portable, sturdy and light weight, huge 6'x 12' and small 4" x 6' x12' fits on any wall in any garage. Holds an entire car yet two guys can break it down and move it by hand in about 30 mins.

I can send you some pics but I'm having trouble posting them

BOOB · Oct 25, 2012

31Vicky with a hemi said: ↑

I have a table, its multi purpose but I built it on purpose to build my car.
It had to be both Flat closed surface and open, permanent and portable, sturdy and light weight, huge 6'x 12' and small 4" x 6' x12' fits on any wall in any garage. Holds an entire car yet two guys can break it down and move it by hand in about 30 mins.

I can send you some pics but I'm having trouble posting them
Click to expand...

I would love to see it!

To clarify my idea of a table, the tables that I have seen were built from heavy plate and I-beams, not too portable. You guys have pointed out that thats not always necessary. Again, I appreciate all the feedback. I will post pics of what I end up building and show examples of how I will store it. I'll have a large shop one day, but for now it's a converted detached 2 car garage.

nashvegas99 · Oct 25, 2012

31Vicky with a hemi said: ↑

My absolutely favorite always go to gizmo are my "wallboard" benches.
They are perfect for any job you can imagine even taking a nap, even the best session of doing the nasty on one.

They fold up, adjust in height, hold 475 Lbs each, weight about 20 lbs.
Click to expand...

can you send some pics or some plans for those? I'm looking to upgrade a little in my garage. thnx stoney

HOTRODPRIMER · Oct 25, 2012

tommy said: ↑

My late buddy Dale used the rear frame from an F-3 that he bought to get the engine. 32 repo rails and everything else home grown. Tack welded to the rails and then cut loose when completed.

It turned out right nice.

I've built a T type frame on the concrete floor. I know... blasphemy. I did not use a micrometer either!
Click to expand...

There you go Tommy,I guess I'm a real screw up or a hard core traditional builder,,when we built the frame for the 32 pickup all that was used was a square tubing roll around table and a piece of plywood,,plumb line,tape measure and a mig welder,,it worked for me but I'm not a professional,,I just act like I know what I'm doing! HRP

toreadorxlt · Oct 25, 2012

**** said: ↑

This got me thinking. I could build something similar to this with detachable rv jacks so it will be as light as possible and could be stored on its side taking up a minimal amount of space. With the table pictured here, built with similar size tubing, set up perfectly level and square with the cross rails on top of the side rails, as pictured, and welded on all four sides of the joint, I dont see any reason why it would flex at all, do you?
Click to expand...

Yup, Mine will get stored upright in my shed in my backyard. Nobody will see it and it won't be an eyesore. It's 3x3x.25" tubing.

koolkemp · Oct 25, 2012

I was given a rolling s10 ch***is ,and when I look at it I can sorta see an easily moveable platform to restore / modify the ch***is for my someday 36 project....anyone else ever try something like this??

tommy · Oct 25, 2012

Back in the 70s when stamped Deuce rails first appeared, I was told that I got the first set of rails not sold to a professional ch***is builder. Deuce Factory? Two I beams with 3" pipe for connectors. I used "Unistrut mounted flush facing up making slots similar to a milling machine table. I bought the 12" Unistrut shelf brackets as uprights and used the special Unistrut nuts for infinite adjustment like the hold downs for a milling machine. I wanted a universal adjustable jig and not a warehouse full of special jigs. I could make special uprights for different year and make frames. It was mounted on legs with large casters for mobility. There was no market for them back then so I eventually cut it up to make room in my 3 car garage. I was able to climb up into it to weld it up completely before it came out of the jig. I still think it was pretty cool because it was so adjustable.

indyjps · Oct 25, 2012

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...053&langId=-1&keyword=jack+post&storeId=10051

Column jack posts for houses. you can buy them in different heights, either set a table on top of them and bolt the stationary flange to the concrete and raise your table. Or put the adjustable side down and weld your table to the stationary side. $40 or so each, weight rated for structural applications.

Ive seen these with adjustment on both ends, Home Depot is not showing them, if you can find them you only need 2, chop them in half.

TR Waters · Oct 25, 2012

For my ch***is mock up, I built a "jig" using 2x12 lumber. It was 14 feet long by 3 feet wide, on casters. Screwed it together for easy dis***embly.

For my body I use a modified Bear alignment rack. It works great with the wide runners. The width is also adjustable. The only thing I would do differently next time is make it a bit lower to the ground.

Rocky · Oct 25, 2012

I've built a few ch***is in my little garage with a 8 foot chunk of very straight I-beam. It's 10 inches across the top and 10-12 inches high. I drilled and tapped the bottom flange so I can level it on my garage floor. I generally build one frame rail and tac weld it down to the top of the I-beam as I go..build the other one directly on top of the first one, tac welding it to the first one until it's completed.
Then I'll cut both of 'em loose and triple check them for straightness and similarity. When I'm happy they're both identical, I'll lay them across the top of the I-beam, clamp and tac them in place directly to the beam's top surface....measure, measure, measure and when I'm happy I'll begin tacking in crossmembers.
When I'm happy with my measurements I'll begin finish welding in the crossmembers, alternating from side to side to keep warpage down.
All of my home-built ch***is have come in below 1/16th of an inch measuring in any direction, including diagnally...
When I'm done, my I-beam will get tied up against the wall of my storage shed [don't want it falling on my head!] till I need it again.
Leveling screws are stainless steel with plenty of never-sieze on the threads.
Total cost was 10 bucks for the I-beam at the local construction salvage store about 25 years ago. Stainless bolts were freebies from the dumpster at work.

rpu28 · Oct 25, 2012

[FONT=&quot]I used Model A banjo bells. If you round the corners on a 5/8" nut it will press squarely into the axle bore. Weld it in, and weld a piece of channel to 5/8" threaded rod. Use a washer and lock nut to fix the height. All available from Home Depot except bells. The 5/8" thread gives you a lot of resolution in leveling, but I use metal shims for fine-tuning.

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wment · Nov 12, 2012

I got four 2' lally columns from Home depot, welded them to the center of some old wheels and made some adjustable stands. The ends of the column have 1" screw adjusters. Makes for easy leveling.

wm

Sheep Dip · Nov 12, 2012

I'm lucky....I have an old body shop frame straighter table/jig and it works great, they only problem is it's like owning a car trailer, everyone knows you got it.

koolkemp · Nov 12, 2012

Rocky said: ↑

I've built a few ch***is in my little garage with a 8 foot chunk of very straight I-beam. It's 10 inches across the top and 10-12 inches high. I drilled and tapped the bottom flange so I can level it on my garage floor. I generally build one frame rail and tac weld it down to the top of the I-beam as I go..build the other one directly on top of the first one, tac welding it to the first one until it's completed.
Then I'll cut both of 'em loose and triple check them for straightness and similarity. When I'm happy they're both identical, I'll lay them across the top of the I-beam, clamp and tac them in place directly to the beam's top surface....measure, measure, measure and when I'm happy I'll begin tacking in crossmembers.
When I'm happy with my measurements I'll begin finish welding in the crossmembers, alternating from side to side to keep warpage down.
All of my home-built ch***is have come in below 1/16th of an inch measuring in any direction, including diagnally...
When I'm done, my I-beam will get tied up against the wall of my storage shed [don't want it falling on my head!] till I need it again.
Leveling screws are stainless steel with plenty of never-sieze on the threads.
Total cost was 10 bucks for the I-beam at the local construction salvage store about 25 years ago. Stainless bolts were freebies from the dumpster at work.
Click to expand...

This sounds really interesting Rocky do you have any pics of it in use??

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When a table is unavailable, what kind of stands do you use for chassis building?

BOOB
Member

from Taylor, TX

Attached Files:

66Mustang%20001.jpg

31Vicky with a hemi
Member

from cleveland ohio

BOOB
Member

from Taylor, TX

nashvegas99
Member

from Nashvegas Tennessee

HOTRODPRIMER
ALLIANCE MEMBER

from Anderson, S.C.

toreadorxlt
Member

from Nashua, NH

koolkemp
Member

from Nova Scotia

tommy
Member Emeritus

from Davidsonville, Md.

indyjps
Member

from Chicago - Far West Burbs

Attached Files:

column jack post.jpg

TR Waters
Member

from Vermont

Attached Files:

HPIM3766_320x240.JPG

HPIM3768_320x240.JPG

HPIM3990_640x480.JPG

HPIM3991_640x480.JPG

Rocky
Classified Editor

from Bellevue, Nebraska...suburb of Omaha

rpu28
Member

from Austin

wment
Member

from Md

Sheep Dip
Member

from Central Ca

koolkemp
Member

from Nova Scotia

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When a table is unavailable, what kind of stands do you use for chassis building?

BOOB Member from Taylor, TX

Attached Files:

66Mustang%20001.jpg

31Vicky with a hemi Member from cleveland ohio

BOOB Member from Taylor, TX

nashvegas99 Member from Nashvegas Tennessee

HOTRODPRIMER ALLIANCE MEMBER from Anderson, S.C.

toreadorxlt Member from Nashua, NH

koolkemp Member from Nova Scotia

tommy Member Emeritus from Davidsonville, Md.

indyjps Member from Chicago - Far West Burbs

Attached Files:

column jack post.jpg

TR Waters Member from Vermont

Attached Files:

HPIM3766_320x240.JPG

HPIM3768_320x240.JPG

HPIM3990_640x480.JPG

HPIM3991_640x480.JPG

Rocky Classified Editor from Bellevue, Nebraska...suburb of Omaha

rpu28 Member from Austin

wment Member from Md

Sheep Dip Member from Central Ca

koolkemp Member from Nova Scotia

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BOOB
Member

from Taylor, TX

31Vicky with a hemi
Member

from cleveland ohio

BOOB
Member

from Taylor, TX

nashvegas99
Member

from Nashvegas Tennessee

HOTRODPRIMER
ALLIANCE MEMBER

from Anderson, S.C.

toreadorxlt
Member

from Nashua, NH

koolkemp
Member

from Nova Scotia

tommy
Member Emeritus

from Davidsonville, Md.

indyjps
Member

from Chicago - Far West Burbs

TR Waters
Member

from Vermont

Rocky
Classified Editor

from Bellevue, Nebraska...suburb of Omaha

rpu28
Member

from Austin

wment
Member

from Md

Sheep Dip
Member

from Central Ca

koolkemp
Member

from Nova Scotia