Could anyone suggest what torque converter to use with my 330 Hemi and 727 Torqueflite transmission? Both the engine and ****** are rebuilt back to stock. Keep in mind I'm not building a race car. Thanks
My 'go-to' application is a 1968-69 383-4bbl package in a RoadRunner or Superbee. This amounts to about a 2500-2800 rpm stall. If this is too loose then spec something for a 68-71 Chrysler with a 440. .
Some of those smaller Hemi's like a small converter. I know someone that put a small hemi(270 or 276) I think and it would kill the motor when he would put it in reverse or drive and ended up with a 10 inch converter. The smaller converter does not have as high of a stall speed as it would have with a more powerful engine. Hope this helps to clarify as some engines just do not have a lot of grunt or make a lot of power down low.
i still dont understand stall speed. is that the rpm where the trans starts to pull? so if its a 2800 then you have to rev it up to 2800rpm before it takes off?
62-early67 727s used a 19 spline input shaft and need the matching year range converter. 67 and later used a 24 splines and can use lots of aftermarket and factory converters. The 62- 67 can be upgraded to 24 splines. Sounds to me like you can use almost any neutral balance converter, 318, 383, 440, etc. High stall speed is noticeable under full throttle starts, tar peelin time! You can drive a high stall converter as if youre going to the grocery store and it will be hardly noticeable. I drove a 4000 stall converter for 2 years, 40000 miles and had no problems.<O
The 'stall' speed indicates at what rpm the engine will stall (die) if the trans is in drive and the brakes are fully locked (so the car cannot move). Torque converters transmit motion as soon as they start spinning, just not a one-to-one ratio. In fact, there will always be some slippage in any converter; this is what drove the demand for lock-up converters so as to save a drop or two of fuel... Side note to the OP. Your oem converter selection will be somewhat determined by the flexplate. Unless you have a custom piece, the B&M 10231 only has the smaller 10" converter bolt pattern, same as the oem 426Hemi part. Custom converters can combine any attributes you want/need, so you can order what ever stall you want with the 10" b.c. .
The advantage of a higher stall speed is to get to the torque peak faster without bogging - ever drive a small car with a small engine and standard transmission? What do you have to do to get that thing to move? Rev it a bit and slip the clutch right? Once it starts to pull you lock the clutch up and go. Feels way stronger when you do that. The looser converter does just that. If you hammer it, it will spin up to where the torque really is and throw the car forward. Also, if you have a long duration cam which doesn't let the engine idle down to 800 rpm, you won't have it jump when you put it in gear and try to stall at every intersection.
I edited my original post above to try an make it more clear. It was not meant to take away from the original post or create confusion.
you said you are running a 330 desoto with a 727, but you didn't specify whether you are running a 57 style trans or one of the later versions.This will determine what options you have.
When the engine is idling the torque converter has almost no resistance. As you rev up the resistance increases, at some point the resistance becomes so high the engine can't rev any faster, the resistance = the power of the engine. This is the stall speed. If you do a brake torque at some point the engine won't rev any faster even though the gas is wide open. A higher stall torque converter will let the engine rev faster and make more HP. Especially if it is a high RPM low torque engine that makes all its power at high RPMs.
Stock hemi stock converter. That engine makes so much torque down low the only stall you need is to keep it from creeping at a stop light.
Generally the indicated stall is with a large motor. The smaller the motor the higher the stall you want to get. My 341 has a Hughes 3000, but it has a lot more cam than stock. What's nice about the 727 is the extra gear down low for more umph. Go with about a 2500 and I think you'll be very happy. Once you're done accelerating and just cruising it will act like a regular torque converter. Because there is a little more slip which creates heat in the converter, you may want to add a better ****** cooler than stock. The car will drive pretty much like normal and no, it won't rev to 2500 to make it go. You'll love it.
the stall speed is relative to the size of motor a stock converter for a 318 will have a stall speed of about 1800 rpm the same converter hooked to a 440 the stall speed will increase 2500-3000 because the 440 has more torque causing more slippage so if your going with a stock converter stick with one closer to the size of your motor 225,318 or 340 but the best bet is to call one of the aftermarket manufactures and give them the size of the motor, cam specs, carburetor, gear ratio and tire size and they will fix you up with what's required
Exactly, the 318- 383-440, NEUTRAL BALANCE, junkyard converter will work just fine for a DRIVER not a race car as he has said. Check the neck that goes into the front pump for wear rings (where the front seal will run). Take your flex plate along and make sure that the bolts will line up. Most junkyard converters have had the flexplates torched off.
I'm ***uming that you have the correct 8-bolt flex plate for your setup with the 7/16" bolt hemi pattern. It's doubtful that you'd find anything with an 8-bolt pattern except fom a 426 hemi. All the rest are 6-bolt. I'd be warry of a junkyard converter. No telling what's in it. Would need to be flushed for sure. My brother had a 69 Dodge flat bed truck with a 318. Added a Hughes 2,500 stall. The motor was from a car and had 360 heads. The converter made a big difference in the way the truck drove. Was a lot more fun with the new converter.
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