So today while drivin to the tech school I got this crazy idear back in my head 'bout wantin to check out the '64 Dodge 4-door 330? parked in this guys front yard behind his other ragged out Dodge, a '69-ish Charger (sorry, OT but worth mentioning). It appears to be decent and mostly original and mostly there. Factory green with chrome in rather decent condition. I've got half a mind to ask that guy about it and see if he'd sell it. As strong as my opinions are against Mopar, I love the looks of it and would love to add it to my backyard. There's a guy comin and might buy my truck sometime before the new year and I'm hopin' and prayin' some of that money makes into my hands (tuition) and if it does, I'm considerin' draggin it home. I wanna go through the brakes and put a dual reservoir master cylinder on it, bigger drum brakes, build up a mild-ish 440 or 400 in it with some reworked stock pieces and a few aftermarket goodies like the cross ram'd 440 in HRD a while back, 727 with a mild shift kit and 2k rpm stall, black steel wheels, poverty caps, max wedge exhaust manifolds, 2.5-inch duals, glasspacks, decent gears something like a 3.5:1 ratio, and a little work here and there, but leave most everything else stock. Most of you guys probably want to vomit every time you see a 4 door but I've been bitten by the sleeper bug so please stop laughing and name calling. Anyhow, now that the back story for this odd request is over, can I see some pictures of cool '64 Dodges?
If you want to know about 64 dodges I can help. Lets start on the ground. These 70 and earlier mopars have left hand wheel studs on the left side of the car. Almost all of em have a least one stud broken off.Some guys broke one or more off and replaced them with right handers because the lefthanders are nearly impossible to find. I know of one guy who broke 2 off before he found out that they were lefties. He then went to the right side thinkin that they were all left hand an broke 2 of them off! You'll find that the rear end has tapered axels and requires a special (read expensive) puller to get the hubs off. More info will get ya more advice. Is the car a 6 or v8? Auto or stick? Etc. Oh yea some pics later.
Can I just swap in a later rear axle without any of the tapered axles? What would should I look for? Really considering spending some money for this car, this Mopar stuff is a little different than the Chevys I'm used to... Any info is greatly appreciated. Don't know much about the car and I probably wont go down there until I make a decision. I'm gonna look for a big block to put in it or if its a poly, I'll leave it mostly stock just clean in up and let it breathe a little better. Definitely gonna end up with a 727 auto. I know Mopars had really little drum brakes, anything bigger swap on or do I have to buy an aftermarket disc kit?
Nothing wrong with the tapered '65-earlier axles. You need a drum puller to tackle a rear brake job, but there really is no need to do an axle swap. You still likely have an 8-3/4" axle, which is the best you are going to find, as a Dana 60 was not available on your particular Dodge. Wheels studs are easily changed out, just get ten RH studs and nuts to replace the left-side studs. You probably have the 10" drums on this car. There is a possiblity it has 11'' units, but only if it were a police car or otherwise had the HD brake option. A good brake job will stop the car just fine - it's lasted nearly 50 years, right??? If you insist on discs, check with www.scarebird.com for what you need for the fronts. Remember, 1964-66 Pontiac GTOs with a 389 ran with NINE-inch drums!!! For a big-block swap, check with Schumacher's at http://www.engine-swaps.com/ as they have every possible mount configuration you may need, without the need for K-member swapping.
The cowls rot out on early mopars and I'm pretty sure that includes the 64, so check it out before you fork over any money. If you're really lucky they only replaced the studs they broke, so now there's a mix of RH and LH studs on that wheel. Sorry, but that made me laugh out loud.
Just updated my '62 Dart wagon to removable drums, later Mopar front discs and R/H studs. Pics and details linked in my sig. Good luck on your Mopar quest!!
You can use A body front spindles to add disc brakes and if you can find a 65-67 rear axle it will give you more tire room, although any rear B-body 65-70 will fit since they all have 43" spring perch dimensions. And M-body spindles will also work for disc up grade m.y. 80-85 you just need the offset bushings for the upper control arms to make up for the 1/4 inch added hight. If the car is a V8 any small or big block will bolt in if you have the correct motor mounds and brackets. this is the 330 I had.
don't know if they still had them in 64, but my 61 Dart has an 8 3/4 lookalike that is actually an "8 1/4" rear. looks the same but will not interchange. I couldn't get drums for it, and swapped out a later 8 3/4. complete rear end. bolted right in place. I'm guessing the "drum brakes worked great for 50 years" people don't drive in the S.F. Bay Area. I drove my 61 to work for a few months. slow lane the whole way, 50 feet between me and the next car. under those conditions, they worked fine.
Wheel studs, oh yes do not ever try to press them out. You'll probably end up looking for another hub and drum as the studs are swedged in place and that swedge must be cut before pressing them out. You'll be looking for a rear from a 65 if ya want to escape the tapered axels. The 66-70 will almost fit but I think that there is a smidge of difference in the spring perch width. You should also check if the pig is a 741 or 742 (just behind the universal joint, bottom left, you'll find the casting #). The 741 will hold up just fine but the availability of gears is limited. Do not worry about the ball and trunion drive shaft joints as they were used in S/S cars.
Well, duh, lots of hills! A well-maintained set of drum brakes work as well as a set of discs. Semis have drums, and stop 80K pounds and more. I imagine most of your BART buses have drums, too.
Now for the big question. How much should I shell out for one somewhere between a parts car and a restoration project. Start with an offer of like $600? Ive got no idea. It is a car in need of complete restoration of everything and it is a more door. Not a basket case but kinda rough from sitting. Brakes, steering, motor, body, interior, transmission, fuel system, etc will all need repair. Car hasn't moved at all in years.
Can't tell you anything without pics... '64 Dodge 330 pics: http://www.bing.com/images/search?q...form=QBIR&pq=1964+dodge+330&sc=8-14&sp=-1&sk=
Jeez you'd think this poor kid was trying to restore a Tucker or something. A Dodge 330 is a B-body Now that you've heard all the "horror" stories about wheel studs, just look on the end of the stud and if they've got a big "L" stamped on them, then they go left. Go to www.cowtownmopars.com and scroll down to "Mopar Information" and then click on the "rear ends" section and it has every part number,dimension, and application for Chrysler Corp differentials. By the way, the A-body rear has 43 inches between perch holes, the B-body is 44. Some later B-bodys (post 70) are 46.5.(station wagons, etc) Why have him screw around with A-body spindles and M-body UCA's? Just use a 70's disc brake setup from a late B-body. Bolts in. Finally, here's the only rule you need to remember when working on a Mopar: IT'S NOT A CHEVROLET.
There's a running, super solid '64 Plymouth Fury 4 door near me with like 55K miles on it that has clean interior but the windshield is cracked, a fender and hood don't match in color (needs paint) and probably needs tires and stuff, I could buy it for probably $800 if it's still around. For a totally haggered one, I'd offer $100 over scrap. That'd probably be around $400 around here. For that, if the car ends up not being fixable, you'll be able to part it out and still come out ahead.
Thanks, man. I fail to understand the Tucker reference but I get the just. If this was a Tucker, I'd sell damn near everything I own for it.
It looks alot like this car body condition wise: Little rust but very solid, paint is pretty bad but the one I want looks more like factory green that's in a little better shape. The paint looks more like this car: Rust is about like this car, in mostly the same places to a similar extent: What do you all think?
Your right on the perch dimension of 44" on the B's. The other info on the spindles is parts are hard to find and those I mentioned work if that is what you can locate. I'm giving him options if he can find them. I should mention that the A-body spindles have to be 73-76 model year. This info is available over on www.moparts.com web site under tech section.
A Tucker is a cool million dollar car....... Such as the Lemay collection Tucker.... http://home.comcast.net/~reynoldswr/docents/MMCarTourInfo/1948Tucker.pdf
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