What have you guys done with all the wood in your cars to perserve ? The wood in the car is in fine condition. Just have no idea what to do.Do i gl*** in the the wood on the doors ,Were the frame meets the body what do i do the wood is some what soild, If any one out there that has great advice please send me a PM. The car is a rock solid car i do not want to mess this thing up.
In the woodie world situations often arise where a pattern of a part is so fragile that to be able to use it as a pattern you must first coat, soak or otherwise paint the "pattern quality" wood with an epoxy. I imagine any epoxy that would "soak" into the wood would be an acceptable solution.. I personally wouldnt use fibergl*** resin.. and might even suggest that a simple coat of oil based paint might be enough if the wood is still solid..
I'd use a good quality spar varnish meant for outdoor use. I would not try to gl*** it the metal, you'll likely only trap moisture in. The sections that need work will not be so easy. Depending on how bad the section is and where it is, you can cut it out and replace it. You may need to take out the whole piece and replace that. I would suggest you join the National Woodie Club. There are experts on most models that will be happy to help. http://www.nationalwoodieclub.com/home.htm
rotten wood can be patched with a product called Abatron. i 've seen it in woodworking magazines and have a friend that once was a dealer. she said it worked very well. can be drilled too.
Don't gl*** the wood to the doors,,as the gl*** cures it can pull on the metal and you will be able to see the outline pattern on the outside. HRP
As a boat restorer I have used a product call CPES(clear penetrating epoxy sealer) made by Smiths. It will help to preserve and make the wood stronger. Plus Smith's claims that it still allows the wood to breathe. Comes in 2 different temprature rated formulas. Must be used over raw wood or it will lift the finish like paint remover. Brushes on like water and soaks in. Other products like it are available as well. Check with a West marine if there is one near you.
For areas where the wood is 'marginal' there is another marine product that I use called "Get-Rot" (spelling?) that stops rot and firms up the wood somewhat.. In addition I have used a marine grade brush on varnish/sealer. Damn NICE Looking Car!!
Ken there no rust in the entire car there no wood rot to speek of. I need to know how to make the wood solid . Have a 400 to put in the car do not want the tq, to bend the body . There is no body work at all to be done!
Yea, that's what the pic looks look... You lucky devil! As for "not wanting to bend the body" with motor torque, well that starts with frame work... Not familiar with the Pontiac frame but on a similar year Chevy I boxed the frame and put in an "X" member... Plus you need a proper rear suspension.... as far as torque control... that's my opinion...
Going to 4 link the rear with a 9in 330 gear. coil over the front since its got the mustang 2 under it all ready the frame needs to be boxed. this is my first none ford build. all i need to have a compleat car is the rad cap. the stainless jsut neeeds to be buffed. even have the org rear view mirror.
Not quite the same but my winter project is an early 60's camper trailer and i've just been replacing some of the interior wood frame due to damp rot. I'm no wood worker but managed to do a good job on it, just takes time thats all, especially drying everything out properly. I've replaced some wood, ensuring all was braced up beforehand and that went smooth enough. Once the wood is bone dry, I've used a product like 'Get Rot' first and then finished with a matt yacht varnish. Unless you're taking the whole lot out in most cases you'll only ever be able to cover/paint 3 out of 4 sides of the wood, so you can only protect it so far. To help add strength i've just fitted some fairly thing gauge Ally strips and added these to some of the main supports, using small self tappers. As it will have a panel hidding it the supports will never be seen. This has definatly added some strength back into the frame and hopefully should last another good few years yet. I don't know what your 33 Pontiac's wood looks like and if your going to be running an interior but the support strips might be an idea. Have to say this is not my idea, its from an article in a vintage car magazine about repairing wooden frames. Either way good luck Dan
I'd think that if the original wood is still in good condition after all these years then it's just fine all on it's own. Hardwood used in automobiles is very stable as long as it's been kept dry and free of termites. It would kinda be like puttin' make-up on your grandmother...lol
What im want to do is try and stiffin up the doors you can twist them very easy there not stiff at all like i would like to see them be.And since the cars apart make the reast of the car as stiff .
thanks rex i will be on the lok out for it we do not have a west marine that i know of here in east tenn.If there anyone that wants the i will sell it if you got the number i want ( aint cheep) thank guys
Great looking car! I wish the wood in mine was in great shape but I wasn't as lucky as you. Good luck with your build.
How would you guys brace the body on my car to take it off the frame? open to sugestions from you guys that have worked on the early chevs and pontiacs.
Question for anyone who has worked on the the early chev our pontiacs. How did you brace the body before you remove it from the frame? to keep the body from twisting.
The Jalopy Journal
