I have a 37 and used a 69 Firebird front clip as that was the hot ticket when I first built the car. Now - if you have a chevy S10 frame I would give this a lot of thought. I am rebuilding the my 37 after a long down time. Never liked the frame set up not rigid enough so I installed a center X brace and a four link rear and canned the springs and went to all air. There are a world of componets for the S10 frame that you can buy off the shelf. I know several around this area that have used the S10 frame and it works great.
Why not use the 36 frame? Use the straight axle or Mustang II setups work good and are plentiful. Plus check the width of the s10 I believe it is too narrow.
Go Mustang II. You'll find on a '36 that any front steer sub will put the steering box right where the grill and radiator want to be. Bad idea...
My uncle has a coupe he is building now. Stock MII setup under the front of it and it fits and sits nice. he did a sedan a few years ago now with the same setup. A lot easier an cleaner to swap the crossmember than to put in a front sub. And a lot easier than a frame swap.
Unless you go with a 74 nova sub that has rear steer, and disc brakes, but the subs width is still sit too wide and the tires sit out board too much. That is why fat man sells narrow upper and lower control arms to compensate for this. after all that's said and done the ch***is engineered mistang 2 set up is prolly the best for a bolt on application for your chevy.
..And people drive me absolutely nuts with "narrowed A arms" 'cause an already bad camber curve gets worse, and an already poor roll center gets worse. To much geometry to count on in a front suspension to go changing stuff around willy-nilly. Sorry, no poke at you Ghost28, just it's not a very good way to go yet people use it all the time. About twenty years ago, Elpolacko, myself and another fabricator buddy of ours put a stock Pinto crossmember in that buddy's '36 Chevy in under 4 hours from removing the stock knee action **** to rolling it around. It's about the most simple early car to pull that trick on and popular because it fits and works better than anything else that has ever come along. I really recomend going that route.
And the tops of the fenders need to be notched and bubbled to clear the upper A-arms, and the front of the crossmemeber will need to be cut off and flipped so it curves backwards in order to clear the doghouse sheetmetal. Dropped axle or Mustang II are the only good options on a '36 or older Chevy.
I speak from actual real experience. My father (who didn't listen to me) put one in a '36 and it needed humps in the fenders to allow for upward travel of the a-arms.
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