T touring body is going back together progress pics

Here is some metallurgy info.

First, AK Steel, the steel producing company is purely coincidental to having the same sounding name. AK Steel is a joint venture between the old Armco Steel and Kawasaki Steel of Japan, hence the AK designation in the name.

Now that that is taken care of, steel has many types that all have special properties. Below I will list some of the types and their method of manufacture or alloying.

1. Drawing Quality - also referred to as DQ. This is what you are calling AK or aluminum killed. It was an old time development to aid stamping. Was an improvement over the regular sheet steel available. This is not really used any more as most all steel is continuous cast, the aluminum killed is a reference back to the ingot cast days.

2. Deep Drawing Quality - known as DDQ. This is vacuum deg***ed, and has better properties than the DQ.

3. Extra Deep Drawing Quality - known as EDDQ, this is vacuum deg***ed and also inters***ial free. Don't worry about the technical definitions, this is the most formable stuff. It has the deepest drawing and best forming of any.

Most new car bodies are a mix of what is required. Almost all of the car is galvanized, which can be electrogalvanized or can be galvannealed. The end result is that the galvanizing process is done to add a thin zinc layer for corrosion protection. There are high strength low alloy (HSLA) that are used for high strength applications and also as stated for thinner panels which is weight reduction. About the only cold roled in a new car is in the roof panel. Everything else is galvanized.

So what does this all mean for you and your local steel supplier? Just go in and ask for the amount of formability you require. They will help you. I can not say what their selection will be, but if they are a good supplier, they should have several grades available. If you need the extra forming, pay more money and get the higher grade. But beware that the higher formability also has lower strength. Steel (like all metals) does work harden, but only if you work it, it will not work harden where it is not stretched and formed.

 

Tman, if you can get me the name of the supplier in Denver i will be glad to follow up on the lead, chances are its a major steel house that can get it to almost anywhere.

 

Looks like you guys have it covered without me jumping in late..

You may not get exactly what the local car company uses as many have a special spec for their own material. However, your local steel supplier should be able to supply material as outline above to suit your purposes.

We tend to use lightweigh (thin) hig tensile sheet stock with the drawing characteristics dictated by the shape of the panel. For exaple, the trunk floor would most likely require a deep draw material and fenders or side outer panels a shallow draw material. Outer panels also require a higher tensile strength in order to resist dings from stones and shopping trolleys.

I definitely wouldn't even attempt to use modern panel steel to repair my old car. Heavy gauge deep draw steel is what was generally used. Compare a '32 Ford fender to a brand new car's fender and it's very easy to see the difference in the 'draw' or ammount the flat panel has been stretched, to form the final shape. The older panel gets it's dent resistance from the thickness and it's repairability from it's 'softness'. The new panel requires more stamping processes to form and has virtually no repairability because of it's hardness and tensile strength.

 

1941 Ford? The hood does not fit well against the cowl. How can I adjust the hood so it fits good against the cowl?

The 41'er

 

huh?

 

You openend up a thread that has been dead for NINE years to ask a question that isn't pertinant to the thread????????? Why not just start a new thread on the subject in the first place or ask it where at least a 40 Ford was under discussion
FNGS

 

Holy random post Batman!

 

So hows that touring coming along?

haha