Do you use rubber body mounts on your builds? Ya know the round rubber doughnut shape? Are they just to improve the ride or do they help with "wear & tear"?
I am debating the same issue......The sons 49 F1 is getting ready for fitting and I am debating on adding rubber mounts as he is planning on driving he heck out of this thing. Not really sure if they will help with road noise or just let the body move around more..... Tim the Toolman
I used Chevy motormount biscuits for body mounts when I swapped frames under My old 51 Merc. They weren't much different than the stock and quite deteriorated Merc mounts.
my 30s-40s stuff only had 1/4" thick pads between the body and ch***is, I by sheets of 1/4" rubber and cut out my own replacements.
The mounts isolates road feedback so it isn't transferred into the body. I use 1/4" thick rubber on my '35 and will use similar on the '46. There is a little give rather than steel to steel. If it is a 'driver' you'll appreciate it, not that hard to do now rather than complain and have to do it later down the track at some stage on the future.
I use the hard rubber rollers for boat trailers 1/2' hole in them cut em to whatever thickness you need...
I am using rubber mounts on my T-bucket project.I used a mud-flap from an 18 wheeler,and cut "biscuits" using a 2" hole saw in my drill press.While I was at it ,I cut enough to last me for several future projects.
IMO it's like wearing a pair of shoes with the soles taken off. Sure it can be done, but things are going to flex on a street car. I was going to use 1/4" rubber or leather to dampen the vibration and act as a barrier between the frame/mounts (Model A). On a full body car I would run the biscuits.
My old pal 'T-Bucket Rick' gave me some conveyor belt from his factory back in '86...The roll was large, and heavy. (fork lift & pallet heavy! Rick said "Keep the pallet"...) The material was 5/8" thick, laminated in black with white and black in between...it was four feet wide, and 35 feet long! I had body mounts for years...Yes, hole saw backed up with a 2 X 6 pinewood cutoff, screwed to my drill press table. I also cut off 15 feet for my ***embly room, to walk on in front of the long bench... If you can get some of that, it will outlast your Ford! (your shoes, too...)
Some bodies are more prone to cracking from flexing and twisting. I usually try to use some sort of cusion betwen my body and ch***is. I have been known to use old tire treads cut to fit, it is pretty backyard but it works and is a cheap alternative. I norlammlyu try to keep the tread from al old slick just for that purpose. They get thrown away so they are usually free.
Nope just a mildly dislexic hot rodder, well that and perhaps a little below average on the IQ scale.
Unless you have a sleeve thru the mount, or springs between the bolts and mounts like a lot of old trucks use, you eliminate most of the vibration absorption, once you tighten the bolts. (the vibrations and torque forces travel through the bolts) That said I still use a dense rubber that came from bomb racks. I use them to set the final height and to reduce metal to metal wear and squeaking at the mounts.
The Jalopy Journal
