I think I would jump on Gasman's offer. No strike that, I would be driving to his place and picking up that orginial frame like NOW!!!!!! Good luck getting it the way you want.....
I've never done chassis work like some guys are suggesting but it sure sounds complicated modifying what you have . The body really looks good from here .....think the stock chassis offer is the way to go . Either way will cost you time and money !! There's not cheap, easy solution . If it was me , I'd rather have the stock set up , especially if you go to sell it down the road . Hopefully you can sell the chassis you have for a few bucks to help ease the pain . ....and your " never give up " attitude is admirable , but not to the extent of making a foolish , expensive decision that may still leave you feeling disatisfied . T
30 seconds on google found this http://www.mcgaughystore.com/products/4.5%7B47%7D6%22-Chevy-Chevy-GMC-Truck-1%22-Rotors-Lowering-Kit-73%252d87.html a little more time and you could probably find the front drop only. This will give 4.5" front drop. ad a spacer to the rear, and you can get level, or a slight rake. If you want slammed with your chassis, Zing the frame in front, or a camaro clip would be two good, albeit expensive options. The ride may be a little rougher than it is now, although not like a stock I beam either. My .02 worth
HMMM, he asked for opinions and i gave mine...... He has already been offered a chassis for cheap close by.... He has stated he is open to swapping out the Chevy stuff.... Am I missing something? My point was that the lowering springs, spindles, etc may work to a point but don't address the cause. More like a band aid .........IMO
RMR&C I am very gracious for all the information and advice. I probably have made a decision and may opt for a spring change out and/or drop spindle (am I correct that I could possibly get a benefit of 2 to 4 inches lowering from either a combination or by selecting one or the other). I am communicating with the individual that offered the good deal on frame. It is still about a day round trip and that does appear to be the best long term fix. All of you are being absolutely great help. There is a suggestion of tire size increase (hiding portions of excess opening on front end. Tires will need replacing. What size tire do most use with this truck?
Original chassis. Jag IFS. (easy install - 4 brackets, will lower it a few inches from stock!) reuse 327/auto. Probably can even use Chev diff etc. (Jag IFS has Chev bolt pattern. Everything else should fit together. While you're doing the chassis, drive the snot out of what you have now!!
Gman, only you can decide what works best for you. Lots of options to choose from for sure. I am glad to see you aren't giving up on the truck....it deserves to be on the road being driven! Have fun.....
i have a 50 f1 i bought to build. i have had it awhile and have other projects to do. i have bought a brand new chassis engineering mustang 2 front sus. for it also. i have put a few of these kits in and i think overall they are the way to go. if interested in the truck with a good clean complete frame with xtra parts and the mustang front i would probably sell it to you. its got a late model rear end under it to. pm me if interested. im 1 hour south east of chicago. in n.w.indiana. the mustang kit is complete with power rack and tubular control arms.
OK so I am still hanging around attempting to make a decision. Well, I know that at some point I will change the chassis but honestly with a daughters wedding in near future, etc. I just am not in position yo purchase a chassis and associated work. So, with that said I am still looking for a temporary fix (fix may not be the correct word). O have noticed that riding around and looking at Chevrolet C10s that the front ends actually seem to ride fairly low. I begin to wonder exactly what I have as far as suspension. Could it have larger springs for a 3/4 ton, etc.. Can anyone provide me with the spring height (mounted) of a 1/2 ton Chevy pickup between 1977 and 1990 - I think all were basically same. Would not hurt to verify diameter. Y'all don't think I am crazy but I have now seen some others selling 51 fords mounted on a chevy frame and none seem to have the issue you see in my photos.
Its NOT the springs etc.....its the way the body has been mounted up on top of the chassis. To get it lower, you need to channel it - cut the bottom of the inner stucture of the body , to sit down lower over the chassis. It will be a LOT cheaper & easier to just get a fresh F1 chassis and start over. I'd estimate approx $2k all up. Raise the back end until level, and drive it as is for a couple years, and some old bloke in town will say "I got a chassis fer one o them thar trucks in my barn".....
here are the facts as i see them......there is no "temporary" fix that will make that truck sit and look right. even if you did get it lower i think the front is still too wide. you would be just compounding mistakes. what it needs is to be torn apart and done right
Mark and 36 - Thanks - Mark I am an Old Bloke - LOL. But I do get the point - Be patient. I have always struggled with patience. Again it actually drives well. I just have several projects I have already started on with the truck, but the more I think about it, none impact a latter chassis swap. I am working on gauges. adjusting doors, replacing rubber gaskets........ I had hoped to modify look temporarily. I have a slight rear seal issue. I think I will tackle that today. I am not going to cut away at body. It is clean now. Also need to replace heater but need parts are parts (heater core) for that. Isn't there a wanted section in here, I will look.
you could always z the frame .... not ideal but if your stuck on using what you got. the best solution is a original frame with modifications of your chioce drop axle, clip,m 2 good luck
Gman - 73-87 Chevy/GM truck bodies sat lower on the frame than yours does. Which is why you notice C10s sitting lower in the front. If you look at you current cab mount bracket, the original position for it is 6 inches or so below where it is right now. The Ford body doesn't fit that frame which is why the previous owner or builder had to move the bracket up so far.
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