Hi there, I was just wondering if it's possilble to replace the fluiddrive for another transmission type? It's for my 51 Windsor. It turns out to be leaking way to much, and overhere in the Netherlands it's not that easy to find someone who can rebuild a fluidrive. It has a 6 flathead. Can i use the motor and find another carb for it and change the trans for something more common? Okay do have to make another shifter aswell then. But..... is there a trans that will fit the engine? Danny
You can adapt the Mopar 904 TF but that will require a fair bit of incidental work http://www.qualityengineeredcomponents.com/?page_id=222 .
The Powerflite for flathead sixes was used on '54 Chrysler Windsors, and '54 thru '59 Dodge, DeSoto and Plymouth 6's. Ray
I onces had a jobrated from '55. That came with 2 extra ******'s it had the original V8. Is there a changes that 1of these would fit? It had a manual shifter but the 2 extra are automatic transmissions... Danny
If you can post some photos of the transmissions it will be easier to identify them. If they are PowerFlite units they could be used, however, you will still need the correct 6-cylinder bell housing. .
You know what it is. It shifts good that's not the problem. But it leaking oil pretty much. Maybe if i can get some new seals and gaskets it would be okay. But i think it is difficult to do this yourself even with a manual or isn't it? Anyone suggestions where i can get seals and gaskets and.... is it difficult?
The transmission is like an old manual transmission, except for the hydraulic shifter which is pretty simple. It is not hard to take the transmission apart, instal new seals and put it together again. The Fluid Drive unit has one seal. It can be replaced but you need a special tool. Suggest you get a repair manual for the details. This web site has original troubleshooting and repair info from Chrysler, including film strips. Scroll down to Hydraulically Operated Transmission. http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/index.htm#1949
I was told a Plymouth or Dodge 3 speed would bolt behind the Chrysler six but the rear cross member would need to be moved forward,the 3 speed was available in the Chryslers but many more fluid drives were built then the 3 speeds.
Hi Rusty, Think i'm gonna try that, put new seals and gaskets in myself. What is that special tool what your talking about? I found the oldmoparts website i think here must be a seal and gasket kit available. http://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-transmission.aspx I already put the imperialclub website to my favorites, to bad the filmstrips have Apple extension. Can't view them with my old vista laptop
Where is the leak coming from? If the Fluid Drive is leaking the oil will drip off the bellhousing in front of the transmission. If this area is dry the Fluid Drive is OK. Also, have you topped up the Fluid Drive? If it needed little or no oil it is not leaking. The Fluid Drive has one seal where the transmission shaft goes in. Chrysler made a special tool for removing and replacing the seal. This is all spelled out in the repair manual. On the Moparts web site the gaskets for your car would be number T 105 1946-53 semi automatic transmission.
For what i know and what i could see is, there's a round hole in the bottom, looks like it's from the bellhousing then? Had to add at least 1.5 litre oil to it. My guess is the former owner didn't refill it once in a while.
I know someone in Friesland called "de bakmakker", for what he said he fixes everything as long as it's got to do with transmissions. Maybe he can rebuild it. http://www.debakmakker.nl/ He did a good job on one of my transmissions once.
Okay, sounds good. Gonna contact them. Thanks! At first wanted to replace everything for a newer engine and trans but i dicided to keep it all as original as possible. First going to replace the rear main seal of the engine that one is leaking the most. Then when the trans is off we're going go take a look at the trans. Anyone got tips and tricks for changing the rear main seal of the engine aswell as what kind of seal is best to use? Thanks for now.. Danny
I would think the crankshaft seal is a two piece rope seal that you can slide out and in by just dropping the oil pan. No need to remove transmission, unless the bell housing prevents removing the pan. And I have no experiance with old Chrysler products, but all old cars were very user friendly for common repairs. And rear crank seals were a very common repair. Also the special wrench for the fluid coupling nut seems pretty simple. The appropriate socket and a lathe (or grinder) looks like it would work there. The good part here is that the seal in the input shaft is pretty self contained and does not wear on the shaft or housing. So if that's your issue, a new seal ***embly will renew all the wear surfaces. Good luck and keep us updated on the progress. Frank
Thanks Frank, i'll keep you posted. I've got another threat about these rope seals. It seems there are three options for a seal (rubber aswell) But you're saying the rope ones are the best to use? For the rear main seal there are no special tools needed? Think i'm going to buy me 2 sets of those rope seals just in case. I'm from the Netherlands you see, if something goes wrong i got a back up. Same goes for the oilpan seals. I don't know what seals i need for the fluid drive, can you help me out with that perhaps? Thank again Danny
I'm not saying rope is the best. Just that they are easy to replace. Even when new they are probabaly going to leak, bleed a little oil. The upper rolls out and in by turning the crank slowly and feeding it in the slot as you turn the crank. There are even simple tools to help with that, but I never used them. I was always able to roll the new one in and the old one out. I would think the rubber two piece seals would also be easy. Very similar procedure to rolling in and out the upper main shells. On the fluid drive seals, the pictures posted show two types of seal packages that look easy to install. I've done water pumps with a very similar set up. And also a million years ago, in the same era as your car, there were GM heavy duty transmissions that had a fluid drive element very similar, but a little larger. Those were made by ****er. But the same concept of a rubbing contact rather than a lip seal riding on a shaft. The key to sucess with those was clean ***embly and getting the parts in nice and square with a little oil to pre lube the sealing surfaces. The failure point on the fluid drive type seals that I'm familiar with was 90% of the time the rubber parts cracking and leaking and not the actual seal surfaces. Hope this helps. Frank
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