Brake Line to Close to Exhaust????

Hi all. I've updated my 30 Model A to 40 ford juice brakes. I'm running the stock 4 banger with single exhaust. I ran the rear brake lines down the unsplit wishbones. Now I'm wondering if my brake line is to close to my exhaust? Any advice would be helpful. Oh, if it is to close would heat wrap or plate do the trick? Thanks, Kensey.

 

If I am interpreting the picture correctly, the wishbone is the piece on the bottom. In my opinion, you have sufficient clearance. Lots of room for air circulation and dissipation of radiant heat. Plus, the exhaust pipe at that point is far enough away from the engine that the exhaust has already cooled considerably. It's not a header pipe or manifold, just a well downstream exhaust pipe.


Ray

 

I have a brake line about 1/2" from my exhaust. Wrappped it with heat tape amd then clamped a sheet metal shield around it. No problems so far......

 

you will be fine i dont think the banger will make a lot of heat

 

You could make a heat shield and attach it to the exhaust.

 

That should be ok with DOT 3 or 4. DOT5 (silicone) will expand quickly when heated and may cause the the brakes to drag or lock. Your probaly far enough away from the engine, so the heat wont be that high as previously ststed.

 

You're fine

 

I agree...You should have no problem.I have the same issue on my latest car and have not had any problems in the 3 years it has been on the road.

 

If there is rubber hose that saddles the exhaust pipe, and brake lines were put in before the pipes, than the hose close to the pipe would boil the brake fluid. You must have to concern mechanic. But if no rubber hose than no problem with you.

 

I know this is an older thread but I couldn't find anything on the search I did. I'm running a Chevy 350 not a banger motor. I'm wondering how close is too close for a brake pressure (brake light) switch to an exhaust system? I have about 1-1/2" between the muffler and the switch. Is a heat shield in order or am I over thinking it?

 

heat sheild shouldn't hurt if you have the room , 1" is about minimum and the switch will be more damaged from the heat than expansion of fluid , I would put one on if the muffler is within 3' of the manifold connection as it will have lots of heat still and more radiation area .

 

Laterally across the top of the frame is 5' from the header dump to the switch but the actual length of pipe is over 6' because it drops runs under the frame then tucks back up before it gets to the muffler. I found a piece of aluminum angle I was going to use as a shield ( shown in the pictures above). Thanks for the quick reply.

 

After reading of all the problems with the pressure switches I decided to remove them and go with a mechanical lever style switch. With the help of fellow hot rodders I was able to wire it in with a relay that allowed me to run both my brake lights and my torque converter lockup. Now no worries about the switches over heating and failing. And running the brake light switch off of a relay should make that switch last a very long time.