the fish oil smell doesn't normally hang around tooo long...although if the vehicle sits closed up on a real hot day for a while..you may get a whiff of it but thats cause its busy doin its thang...
Yup, that where I got mine. Here is the other thread http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=248198
I was going to add, northern tool has it too, same price: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200409363_200409363 Can it be used with a pump, like they do on safest rust remover's website? Does the surface then need sealing and treating? I've got a body on frame car (Caddillac) and I plan on replacing the cancerous sheetmetal with new, but the frame rails have some rust and I need something that'll get inside the framerails to kill the rust from the inside...then do something to keep it from coming back (aforementioned fishoil if the chemical treatment doesn't leave an oxide coating...or leave it alone if it DOES create an oxide coating.) I also found THIS link with some pretty good information on rust removal: http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Rust
I tried to buy Oxalic Acid locally in the hardware stores but no one stocks it anymore. So I bought 5lb of the stuff off of the internet for $20. It arrived in the mail in a special delivery envelope. What amount do you mix with a gallon of water? I have an engine block that I want to de-rust that had been sitting in a barn. Thanks, Alex
For what it's worth, I've documented my initial experiences with safestrustremover.com here: http://www.oddfiddlythings.com/2011/rocketsled/deironoxide/
priming internal or door skin folds? I was considering using Rustoleum primer? thinning it down alot and just running thru a garden sprayer, or submerging the bottom section of a door in the mix? the 1/2 gallon hand pump garden sprayers are $7 at Home Depot. I think this would be an effective prime for door internals and if you can flood a seam with thinned material it should seal it up? I guess you need to watch where its applied so it doesnt give problems with regular sealer primer. Same could be done with epoxy primer but your material prices are much higher, and the large volume of thinner would give a lot of fumes. Eastwood also sells internal frame long nozzle attachments, I can figure out how to build my own, just need a nozzle that will spray 90 degrees to the paint flow in a 360 degree pattern? any ideas but that doesnt cover how to seal up door seams.
Did I just spend $100 on $33 worth of molasses? I bought the container of concentrate from "safestrustremoval.com" and initial tests show that it works as advertised. It's not DARK like molasses, but it sure looks like the bottles of Karo Corn Syrup do. I'm all for paying people for a bit of knowledge that they have that I don't, and I don't have the stones to stir some of the concentrate into my morning coffee, and I have a lifetime's supply...but still, I wonder...
CHECK OUT THIS SITE I USE FOR SMALL PARTS. IT C/B USED OVER AND OVER AGAIN. ALL THE TREE HUGGERS LOVE IT. CHECK OUT THE PHOTOS BELOW. MENTION I SAW YOU AT CARLISLE PA SHOW AND $5 WILL COME off OF A GALLON. I THINK HE SELL IT 5 GALS AS WELL. IT TOOK 3 OVER NITE BATHS BUT THERE IS NO LABOR INVOLVED. http://www.metalrescue.com/home.aspx
Evaporust does not work that well (done that). These types of soak cleaners work best when the liquid is hot, diluting them kills there effectivness and they are expensive. Your parts will rust right away again unless primed. I like electrolysis best get yourself an old kiddy pool or build one that will hold half the body at a time and start soaking & cleaning.
I have been reading the threads about molasses for awhile, decided it was time to try it out. Bought a 5 gal bucket of it from the grange $19.00 enough to do alot of parts. Picked up a rice cooker from goodwill, and i had electric skillet already. I used a mix of 1 part molasses and 4 parts water, loaded up the parts and set them to cooking. Someone poster before that it smells like ethnic cooking, that's spot on, it has a kind of a sweet spicey smell. I pulled the parts out at 5 days and gave them a scrub, it's working, back in for another 5 and they are done. Some of the parts are missing in the before and after pics as they had paint and a light film of grease. The mix does nothing to paint or the grease. The pots were around 130 degrees, i have read that this works without heating but i think the heat really speeds up the process. Hinges that didn't move and the door latch that barely moved, all work smoothly now. These are my results, very good and for not much $$$, i am working on a 100 gallon tank for body pieces...rust be gone
What is the clean up like with the molasses? Any special thing before priming and painting? How long does the molasses work? What does it do to chrome? Dude, I am amazed!
i know it's an older thread but i looked everywhere around here for wood bleach (oxalic acid)....WM, Lowes, Home Depot, 2 farm and home stores and came up empty. then, i had an idea and hit a Sherwin Williams paint store in town. bingo. at $8.99 for 12oz i will hit up ebay for it next time if i find it works as well as advertized.
For what it's worth, the Safest Rust Removal product works as advertised for specific problems: Untitled by Matey-O, on Flickr it couldn't TOUCH the framerails on my caddy, I spent WEEKS running the stuff over it and rust just laughed at it. In the meantime, however, Eastwood as come up with something I'm giving a shot at: http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle.html
What is used for "neutralizing" after the parts are cleaned in the Oxalic Acid? Or for that matter any of the acids suggested? Will a mix of bicarb of soda and water do the job? Mix ratio? Just scored an older Corvette oil pan, the one that is same depth as reg. Chev. but has a deep section that goes further forward to hold an additional quart of oil without loss of ground clearance. It has some surface rust that I wanta get rid of before I use. Gonna strip outside first (painted, but I don't know what the surface underneath looks like). The rust I can see is on the inside all the way from top to bottom. Don't wanta blast for fear of blast media impregnating metal and then coming out in my oil later!
Shouldn't cost too much. I built this 4' square tank out of 2x4's and OSB I had saved from another job. Lined it with a pond liner, dropped in all my body panels and filled it with a molasses mix. It'd be easy to build a tank for your frame. A couple of sheets of OSB and some scrap 2x4's. It only needs to be 2' tall, 4' or 5' wide and 10' or 12' long. Here's a cheap pond liner to line it with........... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sunterra-PV...961?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item416a2507c9
I have a question for those of you who have used molasses in colder climes. In a 7:1 solution, do you require a lot of heat to keep it from freezing solid? I'd hate to make a molasses-ford parts-cicle, and then have to wait until the spring thaw. I was considering using a floating stock-tank heater, and was wondering if that were enough. Also, instead of pouring the solution on your garden when you're done, could you distill it and make iron-fortified rum? Okay, maybe not.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q8OYd0cubZg&list=LPy7RMJFxTrqw&index=2&feature=plcp Have you looked into DRY ICE BLASTING? You can rent the equipment and the ice and do it at home. Leaves no residue and no environmental damage. The only thing you clean up is the paint and rust dust.
yes id also like to see some pics... i called the feed store near my house today.5 gallons for 15 bucks..but the lady asked if i wanted the liquid?is there a difference?liquid or gel?what did you use?
From this......................... To this............................... The car had been sitting in a tree for 60 years so it had some serious rust! The stuff I bought was a really thick liquid.......almost like molasses! Haha!
What is the ratio for molasses to water? I have some parts soaking but I think my solution is weak. I have about 1" of molasses in a 5 gallon bucket of water. It is not doing anything after 4-5 days.
Technical note: the black stuff IS a form of rust. The electrolysis of red rust to black rust is a reduction reaction (essentially converting red rust to magnetite and iron metal). While the black rust is fairly stable, it tends to flake off leaving fresh, exposed iron; so be sure to protect that new surface quickly to prevent new rust from forming!
Just thought I'd report back on this. Did the stripper bit on oil pan exterior and no rust there, as what appeared to be stock GM black paint had kept rust away. Found the Savogran wood bleach @Ace Hdw., $8.99 per 12oz plastic pail, put 4 pails in 40L kitchen plastic trash can tall enough to immerse SBC pan vertically on nose. Filled with tap water straight from garden hose, stirred vigorously. Submerged pan in this for approx 25 hrs. A rinse with hose nozzle showed no more rust, just pits where it once resided! Wet it down well with Purple Power, scrubbed a little on really deep pitted areas, and rinsed thoroughly. Then I set the pan in front of my 125K BTU torpedo heater and gave it a thorough drying. Gave the exterior 2 coats rattle can engine enamel primer, and 3 coats Chev. Orange, and IT LOOKS GREAT!!!!!!!!!!! Rust is not coming back on interior and I can safely assume it won't when it goes on the engine and gets doused often with hot motor oil.
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