Installing door glass in '36 3-window Ford

Anybody have helpful hints on installing the door gl*** on my '36 Ford 3 window coupe. It's been chopped 3 inches. I'm putting in new window channels / fuzz.
I'll make a template first for the gl*** and need to find out how the hell you get the gl*** into place in the doors and put into vertical channels and regulator. As it is, I have to rebuild the curved channel that goes in rear of window opening.

 

You install the side window gl*** by carefully inserting the bottom of the gl***, where the metal channel is, through the window opening and into the new gl*** channels in the door. There is enough room to work without the garnish moulding in place.

I chopped my 36 3 window 2 1/2 inches and getting the side gl*** right might take a few tries, expecially if you are using the original window regulators or the original style power ones from NuRelics that have the "kickback" feature where the window goes back about an inch before it goes down. Using these regulators you have to have the gl*** just right. If it is too tall the window won't be able to move forward and close when it is rolled up.

Installing the stainless trim and fuzz with little screws was pretty tedious. Use a lot of blue tape to protect the paint, have plenty of sharp drill bits and don't try to use the old holes. I was careful and filed and polished the ends of the cut stainless before final installation. I think I spent about a day and a half on that ****.

The rear window is pretty straight forward if you used a window channel kit from somewbody like Drake. Just don't make the gl*** too tall or it will not roll down out of sight. If you are installing a power window unit, well, that's A LOT more work and will require some well engineered fabrication. Mine is power, a NuRelics unit.

As far as the window gl*** templates, I made the first set out of 1/4" foamcore because it is pretty easy to work with and the final set out of 1/4" MDF. Your gl*** guy will be happy with the MDF templates. Even if you do a good job making your templates, you may have to have the tops of side gl*** sanded down a bit to conform to the window openings properly. Make a separate template for each side gl***.

And if you are using the original style side window metal gl*** channels you will probably need to install "stops" at either end of the channels. You can drill a hole and put a small machine screw with a spacer of some kind and then tighten down with nut, and don't forget the locktight.

Finally, again if you are using the original regulators, after final installation, leave the 6 screws that mount the regulator a bit loose so that the regulator can move back and forth a little to center itself in the slots in the door and have the little knob(available from Drake) in the center the metal gl*** channel work properly with the regulator.

I'm surprised I remembered all of that, but probably left out some other stuff.

I used dielectric grease to lube up everything as it is not effected by temperature.

Good Luck Have Fun

 

58Lincoln has it right......I just did this on a 3w chopped 2 1/2".....as said templates are a must. I used masonite only because it was laying around. ***emble your regulators and templates to make sure they go up and down correctly. You must mark the location of the lift channels on the gl*** exactly or they won't work right. I also had to leave the regulator loose in the door to get both rollers into the channel. An extra pair of hands helps a lot....