I got spanked the last time i posted for mentioning brand names option 1- stock frame aftermarket IFS kits and rear spring mods I would have to be a usable frame option 2- stock frame with an after market subframe and rear leaf springs option 3- after market complete frame, buy my own IFS stuff option 4- buy a complete ch***is I have the skill to do any of these, of course they are listed from low to high$$ My engine of choice is a built 331 Hemi, with a a833 4speed
option 5- stock original frame with dropped front axle and split bones , CE rear parallel leaf spring kit
Option five is best. The old style spring, when clean and in good condition, will ride and handle as good as anything in that ch***is. Good shocks, a later model steering gear with a panard bar, a sway bar, good brakes, and it all bolts in. Its a no brainer!
or option 6 this setup with the rear cross leaf intact. There is nothing wrong with the buggy spring that a little intellegence won't cure. Of course there is the 7th option but that involves using any or all of the first 4 options and forgetting about building a traditional hot rod alltogether.
I think that IFS was so rammed down everyones throats by the magazines in the 80's and 90's and beyond, that people forget how good a properly set up buggy spring can be. I have a stock 38 axle and bones (un split) on my 36 with a posies reversed eye srping ch***is eng shocks and disc brakes. Out back I have the stock 36 spring that I cleaned up and smoothed the tips where they sit on the lower leaf, and added spring liner, with P&J ladder bars....and it rides good... lots of good options already mentioned. good luck
x2. but, i'd take it a step further and specify using a 1935-1936 front axle and wishbone. the axle is a bit wider and the perch-to-perch is narrower so when you drop it you don't lose much of your steering radius.
Just my two cents worth - After having both, I would go with the Mustang II and rack steering. It works MUCH better than a vega box and cross steer.
I went through something similar on my 40, decided to do it myselft, bought the whole CE frame package, boxed the frame myself, etc. Frankly, I am worn out from the effort it took to make everything fit, work, and look right. I still have a 70+ year old frame to worry about. There is no doubt that I Would have been miles and years ahead to pop for a complete rolling ch***is. Many origninal frames of this vintage are severely rusted, especially right under the battery box. Quite a few are bent and twisted from years of use and abuse. There was a guy who used to show up at Chickasha from Arkansas that offered a scratch built 40 ch***is for less than what I had in mine after buying all the CE stuff.
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