welding body to frame (model a)

I knew someone that welded the body to the frame, lots of stress cracks on body, cracked windshield. If you do weld the body to the frame be sure you have body & frame braced so it moves together. easier said than done

 

My 34 was braised and welded to the frame when it was channeled back in the day. When I bought it somebody had used a hammer and a screw driver in an unsuccessful attempt to seperate the two. What a mess. I recommend bolts.

 

Is that what I said? Read it again, slowly.

 

HeeHEE got it !!!!!! sorry.

 

Its all good, just that being mis-quoted is kind of a pet peeve with me. Funny you should mention the LA Roadster show, as I recall they were actually pretty impressed...But you probably mean the 95%ers that make up the CURRENT crowds, right?

 

I saw that happen too. Most people post without reading, which I've never understood.

 

Thread was linked above Rock. And yes, my Tudor is designed like Alex's roadster and will be welded to the frame, floor on the bottom of the rails.

 

I love it when people say the same exact thing someone else just said like they thought of it


Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad

 

I am building a chanelled car as well, had seen photos of Metalshapers car many times, but had never seen the build thread. I am really looking closely at what he did, and seriously considering welding the whole thing together. I was already planning on welding and filling the decklid (the influence of fifties hot rod construction on my thinking extends a little deeper than red wheels and WWW's) I was already thinking about a bellypan and dropping the floor between the rails, his car is taking this line of thinking to its logical conclusion.

 

It's a poor sort of memory that only works back wards!!--Have it your way.

 

How about a compromise? Bolt it together, then weld the nuts on. You could take it apart, by cutting the nuts and bolts, if needed. And once torqued down and welded, it wouldn't loosten over time. But..if you have wooden blocks or shims then i'd think twice about it.

 

Hello all,
What are the pros and cons of this compromise? Model A coupe body on boxed '32 rails. Floor mounted to the frame in passenger compartment a few inches deep to gain headroom. Body mounted to frame in a "traditional" manner, minus floor of course. Maybe tubular bulkheads behind firewall and rear window structures to facilitate additional mounting points and body rigidity? Has anyone done this or seen this done?
Thanks,
ScottW.

 

Recessed floors are out there but its not common because its a lot of work. Most guys would rather drive hunched over in the cool chop & channel than do it.
You'd still need a sub rail for the body to mount & that turns down to meet the floor.
You could make up a trim panel to cover the area too.

There's a thread " sub rails on channeled cars" that has lots of info.
Some guys will just drop the seat pan.
Metalshapes has his floor welded to the bottom of the frame, very cool build.

 

Thanks for your reply 31Vicky. With arthritis set in, I hate the idea of being hunched over lol. The reason I was thinking this route is because I really cant afford several purpose built rods and I thought this might make for a little more comfortable cruiser while providing for the necessary headroom between a helmet and a roll bar/four point if I want to go play at the salt or participate at HAMB drags. Not trying to be the superstar at any of the above mentioned, just fun, camaraderie, and participation in a historical place/event.
Again, thanks for your reply and pointing out a thread. I'll check that out!
ScottW.