Ok, I've been working on this list, seems pretty good for now. 1) Can someone point me in the right direction when it comes to boxing frames? I've never seen anything about doing it, but I know what it is. Just want to know if there is a right or wrong way? Such as not removing cross members and boxing around them. Or removing, boxing, and cutting cross-member to fit. 2) Which is a better rear? parallel or triangle 4-link? I am partial to the geometry of the triangulated setup, but I don't know squat about installing one. I'm not very fond of the way the panhard rod moves the rear. Want to learn more and determine if I could install one or have to pay someone. 3) For all this frame welding, can I trust my little flux-core welder? I've gotten pretty good with it, and since most of the welds will be ground smooth, i'm not concerned w/ appearence. 4) I plan on smoothing the frame out anyways, so would a skim coat of filler last on the frame? I want to get rid of the cellulite marks (patches on the frame from production that look like a fat womans thighs). I'm going to detail the underside and I don't want to have patches of filler falling off. 5) I saw in a very recent post about replacing floor pans that bead rolls are a must. And while I understand this and the need for them, Can I get by w/o them in my '50 chevy PU? it's such a short cab, and the bench covers half the floor, would there be enough stability from those factors? 6) If I have to have bead rolls, is there a home job I could do for those? Like clamping a sheet down over a rod, and banging around the rod to create the bead(really ghetto, I know but I'm poor college student) 7) I plan on buying a siphon feed sandblaster and was wondering where do I get sand for it? I was reading on another forum that pre-sifted media sand can be bought for like $2 a bag. I was just gonna go get a 50 lb bag of sand from home depot and use that, but know I don't know what to use. I know this is areally long post, and I thank you ahead of time for your replies and patience.
1) Dont remove cross member unless you have to. 2) Run what's there. 3) Maybe 4) Thin coat yes 5) I didn't use any beads and my floors are solid as hell. Just make sure you support it about every 2 feet or so. I just built a sub floor out of 1" square tube. 6) You could make a male and female die set and put the 2 in a really big press. However, I would just go to harbor freight and pick up a bead roller. Probably about $100. 7) You can use the stuff from Home Depot, but you'll have to strain it. Even then, it'll clog up the system now and then. Welcome to the HAMB
#3 dont grind any welds in the frame area,unless you really know what you are doing, wire clean the area and put 'gl*** on it if you want ,but dont gring welds IMO
What frame are you using. Just a suggestion get yourself an s-10 frame very easy to get parts for. Thats what we are all running on our trucks.
ok, these are helpful, however. On the response about leaving the rear end stock, I don't actually have anything there right now anyways. Plus, what's the point of hot rodding if I leave it stock? The rear end of the truck is just sitting on top of a 12-bolt w/leafs combination. I want to go away from leafs and use coilovers for their adjustability, and maybe even airbags in the future, but coilovers in the near future. So I would really like some more info about doing the 4-link rear. As far as using an s-10 frame, I've thought about that, but I don't have room to store another donor car/unused frame, plus I want to reuse and modify original components (i.e. poor college student, time is more plentiful than money). Finally, point noted about grinding on the frame, I'll only do it if its a welding F-up and I'm planning to re-weld.
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