Accually its a Holley94. I just got my A back on the road again. When I test started it, it leaked like mad. Wow, it was just down for 4 weeks. I went to NAPA & picked up kit CBR 25612 for $36 & whe home & took it apart. I got a reagular metal hand file & worked all 5 surfaces. Man, that thing was warped. You could totally see all the dips as you file. I slapped it back together with all the same used parts & first try, still a little wet. Put some gas grade tape(1.5" round yellow case) on that fuel line nut to the carb, done, dry as a whistle. You know the wife's responce, "So I could take the Kit back & get the money back?"
And your response is, "Well no but I can take them back and exchange it for other parts that I need." Good job. You think more like a mechanic than a parts changer.
i was a service manager for a John Deere dealer for a while, and we had a customer who had brought in an OOOOLD piece of equipment that had blown the head gasket and burned a slice out of the sealing area... he was "financially impaired", and this machine was one of his primary moneymakers.... i gave him the price of a new head; he choked on it, and i said "wait. give me a couple of days, we'll get something for ya." i grabbed a sheet of 240 and a sheet of 360 and a can of wd40, sprayed down a spot on the service desk, and between calls, i slowly "milled" that old piece of junk down until the gap was gone. i tossed in a new head gasket, the tech split the time and the customer went away smiling....
[/quote] i grabbed a sheet of 240 and a sheet of 360 and a can of wd40, sprayed down a spot on the service desk, and between calls, i slowly "milled" that old piece of junk down until the gap was gone. i tossed in a new head gasket, the tech split the time and the customer went away smiling....[/QUOTE] Had a friend who did strombergs all the time, he said this was the only way to get consistantly leak free rebuilds.
Love this I've never done it with anything as large as a head or anything like that, but I have "lapped" smaller pieces for precision fit using essentially the same method, with a piece of thick tempered gl*** under the sand paper to act as a cheap surface block. Not quite as good as an actual granite block, but a hell of a lot cheaper (especially if you break it )
i do i with Ford thermostat housings, too. i'm a desperately cheap cheapskate! i like the feeling of doing something inherently "crafty" like filing sealing edges smooth or taking off casting ridges.... i'm nowhere near talented enough to smooth off entire exhaust manifolds, but i'd love to try it sometime.
This problem of warped carb bodies and air horns is not confined to Strombergs. I have use the wet and dry too. Where the air horn (carb top) is warped often there is an extension below the surface which holds the float. What I have done is get a good size piece of plate say 4'' wide by 8" lond and drill some holes to form a slot to allow the air horn to sit flat on the plate. Then it is just a matter of placing the wet and dry on the plate and wrap it around the side of the plate. I use kero as cutting agent and start rubbing. I have retrieved numerous carb air horns in this way. As for the bodies I simply pulled a piece of plate gl*** out of a cabinet in my shed and applied the wet and dry method with kero again. Worked a treat.
I file the gasket surfaces on all the 94s I rebuild....not that there have been all that many, but it's the first thing I do after I get the carb apart and cleaned up. I hate leaky carbs.... I've spent several days or more just on that operation alone to make sure everything fits together right.
36$ dollars for one rebuild kit? i rebuild 4 holley 94's for that price, all the kits also came from NAPA....
The kits I've bought at Napa here in Northern Nevada are about $20.00 each. Like everything else nowadays...overpriced and they come with ****py accelerator pumps and float needles. I think JobLot sells a very good kit for about the same, but I haven't checked in a while.
you must be much better with a hand-file than me! i have always been a fan of taping a sheet of 180 grit sandpaper on a flat surface (preferably a slab of granite or marble) and swirling the carb body and top around in a DA motion.
Overall, Knowing how to wrench is being able to see the plains. All the flat surfaces everywhere. Metal to metal, to aluminum, to plastic, even wrench to nut/bolt surfaces itself.
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