I guess I'm about to join the club here--as it were. just picked up a restored 24 truck for the museum I run--was used by a local grocer to make deliveries for AGES. Hasn't been run in about 12 years. I know it needs a head gasket and a few other minor mechanical things (amp meter and tube in 1 tire). Hoping to get it back up and running as a parade vehicle. I'll post up a thread when we get started on it. that was a long way to say subscribed
From the Speedex link I posted earlier - I found this an interesting piece on chamber design. Opening up four slanting ports would be beyond my abilities on an A four banger...
That sounds like it will be interesting. Pretty soon you will have your own opinion as to the best design. Good Luck with the research!
Real cool that the winfield info pops back up now that I am searching for one. After a long time of getting other projects done and land speed racing season is over for the year I am finally starting on my 29 roadster and it seems as though no one has a head in stock, although admittedly I have only called reds headers and HH. I was originally in search of a new 7:1 winfield assuming that it would be a crows foot and it being the ideal cr I was looking for, anyone got any leads on a good used one or anyone that has one in stock? So far I am on starting on a good foot, got a cam coming from Max Jr, fab parts to make a lake header, mallory distributer from bubba, single 97 intake, adj tappets and other misc parts. I am amped to get everything in and get cracking.
Did you check the early ford store http://www.earlyfordstore.com/model_a_b_speed_equipment.php their site says they have the Winfield's in stock but I am not sure which type. I'm in Kenilworth and have a set of top wood bows and some interior wood for a '28 roadster as well as some other stock bits and pieces, if you need them let me know and their yours.
Thanks MJW, glad to see another banger powered rod near me. I will give them a ring when they open up to confirm if they have it in stock. I'll pm you about the stock stuff.
I know this doesn't answer your question, but I just got my B engine back and he said that with the crack repairs required on my block he wouldn't do oversize valves. Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
I think I read here that with a 1.75 you don't use a valve seat you just machine the block. They are very thin up there ford was not nice to us hot rods. What are you running for a head? I think the head and gasket have less room for bigger valves then the block. I got a question.... How much can you off set a 1.75 valve still hit the cam and not break into the water jacket.
FYI.... Thomas hi compression finned aluminum 4 cylinder flathead 4 banger for sale on E Bay I think its a little high at $550 but what do I know
THis is kinda Apples to Oranges but Geo Riley recommended opening the exhaust valve up to 1 7/8" size. Question is does the exhaust valve area have more meat than the intake? His company listed B blocks with 1 7/8 exhaust valves. He also advised removing the hard exhaust seat in the later B blocks. Not sure if there is that much material around intake valve. He said to use a 70 degree reamer to open up under the valve. He prints a sketch but it has the dimension lines placed or printed odd, not sure if valve port is opened up to 1 11/16 or just what that dimension applies to. Drawing is reprinted 3 or 4 times in Geo Riley Racing Scrapbook by Dan Iandola.
X2 on the info Bill Can I bug you for the info on the intake side. Do you think he went so big on the Ex. Side because of the back side being so shielded? Did he say any thing about cam spec. I don't think I would go that big unless I was going for broke and don't care of it lasted or not. Some day when I have money to piss away it would be fun. Thanks again Bill
The Riley over head only used the Ex. Valves in the block. That is why the info is for the Ex. valves. .
Probably not the right place to do this, but, it applies to a very select group. A few months ago I made up some Model A-B cam blanks. Designed with 5 bearings and larger finish diameter, made from 8620 stl. I have run another batch, all with dist gear cut, 1.56 and 1.75 diameter finish available. I also ran a couple made with tool steel for experimentation with thru hardening and tool steel lifters. If interested, I can be contacted here through the site. Thanks, John
John Please remember to make to lifters harder than the cam Anyone make Chilled iron lifters? I really prefer Iron cam billets
Rex, The lifter program has stalled due to too many variancies in diameters. My plan was to make hollow lifters with .631 dia and 1.2 heads with adjusting screws. This is to replace the larger chrysler/jeep lifters. What I have found is that many sizes are necessary .631, .622, .577 etc. I am experimenting with some myself, not for sale. At this point, many good options are available and not worth the time and money. If there is a significant advantage to going to full TS lifters it has not become apparent yet. I have some hellatious valve springs on my motor and 1.65 rockers, no signs of wear yet and the pushrods are not bending too bad, time will tell. Bluto, yes, the cam should be softer than the lifter, preferrably dis-simular materials. The TS cam is to allow for a thru heat-treat and no plating. Material cost more but the other end is much less to finish a cam. I had a guy making iron billets a few years ago, sorry to say that he is gone now. They had some very good profiles for racing. Cheers, John
Looks like a 1932 Ford "B" distributor. They had centrifugal advance weights in them. You don't have to pull down the spark lever anymore. Just be aware that the timing pin moved on the 1932 4 cylinder covers, so if you try to time that distributor on a Model A engine using the Model A timing pin, you'll be a little off. (Gary you might already know this. This is info for others that might not know this.)
True...it will get real complicated because my chassis is an "AR" (early A) with the solid front mount so I can't use a B timing cover.
Why not just build a new front mount? Your not restoring a car you are building a hot rod. Make it look like Mr. Ford did it him self.
I could do that...I kinda dig the novelty of the early solid front mount. Luckily I found a pretty slick way of timing it with an A front cover, will just need to use a standard A/B cap to do it initially: http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/ignitorB.htm
I usually start about 5 degrees BTDC and work from there. My 2 port B block has an A timing cover. I think that I will put a stock B distributor in and see if I can plot the timing curve. I haven't finished checking the curve with the modified B distributor that is in the engine now. What I need to do is find someone in my area that has a distributor machine so I wouldn't have to breathe so much exhaust. I think people worry too much about timing the B distributor with the A cover. I have had no problem timing FS, Mallory, or Pertronix conversions on this engine.
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