COE 1941 Ford COE build

The 2 reversers give you a pretty good angle.....but where will that put your pivot point?
Looks like you are getting closer...don't give up!

 

Pivot point would be a single ujoint in the shaft between the two reversers.

 

wetskier, thanks for the reply. I am going to try the general question area. Great looking build btw.

 

If the U-joint is fixed to both shafts, the centerline of the U-joint should coincide with the cab pivot centerline, otherwise some stretching/compressing of the shafts or gear boxes will result.
A work-around is to have one shaft be able to telescope.

 

oops, dble post

 

Thanks for the suggestion. I had planned on the ujoint pivoting at the exact point as the cab, but your idea would allow a little leeway.

I have been thinking about other solutions. I like the reversers, but using 2 of them seems a little crazy, therefore I am looking at other options like tilting the Dodge R&P stub forward enough to use 2 35* ujoints or using the Isuzu rack and 1 reverser. I like both of these solutions but it would mean some serious fab that would need to be bullet proof for mounting either rack.

 

just my 2cents throw the rack away and go with a gm motor home or van setup

 

I'm settling in on the 2 Isuzu reverser idea. I notched the subframe to accommodate the lower reverser and began the body mounts onto the subframe. I hope to have the cab actually tilting this week. At least I'll have a milestone, as small as it may be.

I also moved the stock 1941 body mounts which are under the seats about an inch towards the doors. They sit right over the subframe there and give me a little more room for the stock C5 radiator and fans.

How does a person add 400 lbs to the cab to check ride height w/o asking the neighbors to pile into a truck that has no floor??

 

A few more pics... Modded and stock underseat cab mounts, New Hinge point mounts that will be welded to the Dodge frame, sleeved and bolted to the subframe, also with sleeves.

And ride height with 400 lbs of water in the cab. It's still too high IMO, but I suspect I'll have more than 400 lbs in the cab once it has floors, gl***, hvac, interior and so on and I may be able to drop it a bit by adjusting the torsion bars.

 

Here's a pic with no torsion bars and 2x4s between the bumpstops and the A arms. Hopefully I can get closer to this setting by adjusting the torsion bars.

 

Given the width of those tires and as close as that fender looks to the tire I think you'll likely have problems driving it. Those tires and wheels are what you're planning on running aren't they?

 

I'm not sold on the blingy wheels yet, they were just what came on the Dodge ch***is. I think the wheel and tire choice will be dictated by where I can get it to sit and proximity to the fender as you're thinking. Maybe a tire that's a little skinnier than what's there. I know stock Dodge 1500 rubber is considerably skinnier.

 

BIG NO, on the wheeels and tires. jmo

 

To lower this thing why not just drop the whole cab ?!?!?

 

I'd have to lower the engine and its as low as I am comfortable with right now. Unless I wanted to intrude on the floor some more.... I think I can get it where I'd like with the TBs.

thanks!

 

This is a wild and unique build. Got to have a 4x4 and still sit low. I love the tilt cab. I can't wait to see it finished.

 

Nice looking build? Gotta love the looks of cab-overs.... Whereabouts in NH are you??

 

I'm in Hudson. You?

 

Up in Wilmot.... Thought I'd seen a cab over similar at a guys shop around here, but guess it was a different one haha

 

I think this is a simple question.. The new tilt cab mounts that are getting welded to the Dodge frame sit partially on top of a crossmember's "tab" that's already welded to the Dodge frame. The bump on the frame from the tab isn't huge, maybe 1/8" but it will be under 2/3s of the new tilt mount.

At first I thought grind the new tilt mount to make it sit flush on the Dodge frame and the "tab", but now I'm thinking cut a piece of 1/8 stock, add that beside the "tab" directly onto the Dodge frame then put the new tilt mount on top of that and the tab.

thoughts?

 

It tilts!!!!!!!!!!!

I think the running boards and valance above the RB will need to remain fixed to the frame and not tilt for clearance.

 

pics..

 

Looks good!

 

.
.
.
Hi guys im new in here , im after coe cabover truck ford or gmc , is there any one got any idea where to get one
cheers

 

Now that I have the cab on it's tilt frame, I've rechecked level and have managed to cant the cab forward a bit... It's not much but a level on the door frame says it's there... Any reason to be concerned?

thanks,

Rick

 

Isn't that called "rake" !?!? ;-)

Looking at the tilt it looks like the fenders will hit the wheels - or is that as far as it tilts?

Can you do me a favor and give me the side to side outside width of the fenders at the front wheel centerline?

Thanks.

 

Yes, that's as far as it will tilt... If I moved the hinge point any further forward, I'd run out of room to make it even with the steering U joint.. I don't know how the guys that have the hinge point way out near the front bumper do it...

Outside width of the fenders is 77 1/4" on mine but take that with a grain of salt since my fenders are pretty beat. Sorry this took so long, I had removed the fenders already when I saw this...

I think I might have posted the stock 1941 outside tire to outside tire earlier in this thread...

Rick

 

I took the time to lose the "rake"....

 

SLOWLY making progress on the steering... Still need to make brackets but it all works without binding.. Again, many thanks to those that pointed me to the Isuzu steering parts.