30 A project radiator question

My project started life as a 30 pickup and is being converted to a tudor sedan. The original engine was a 283 mated to a turbo 400. The only transmission cooler was a finned tube style unit attached to the frame. I'm converting to a big block and a 700R4. My current radiator sits in front of the forward crossmember(with electric fan) but is not equipped with a transmission cooler. I'm thinking I will be living on borrowed time if I try to use just an auxilary cooler for the transmission. For those of you with big motors and automatics, what are you using to cool this combo?

 

I have both a frame mounted auxiliary cooler and a radiator with a built in cooler.700R4 transmissions don't like heat.

 

Those coolers come in different sizes, is your a long one or a short one? I put an 18" one in a '48 Lincold vert last spring and am not in the least bit worried about it, the lincoln is a big heavy pig. If I were using it as a car even with a big block I would continue to use one of those types of coolers and not sweat it. Just make sure it is out in the air stream.

Now if I was using it as a truck I would consider getting one of those bigger coolers with the fan on it and find a place to mount it.

Oh I meant to say for my own stuff I am using something completely non traditional, it is an oil cooler from a mazda RX7 that I found in a You Pull It for 7 bucks.

 

This is from one to the transmission builders sites in reference to the importance of proper transmission temperature control.


The fluid temperature control system is designed to properly manage the transmissions operating temperature. Most people don’t realize that routing the lines from the transmission through the radiator is designed to bring the transmission up to its proper operating temperature and then maintain it at that temperature. This is the reason that the factory’s transmission hard lines always run to a heat exchanger located in the vehicles thermostatically controlled radiator system. We have yet to see an “auxiliary” type cooler mounted anywhere that was capable of doing this job properly. Contrary to popular belief, a good transmission temperature control system ran through a heat exchanger located in the exit tank of the vehicles radiator, will normally hold the transmissions fluid temperature 30 to 50 degrees F lower than the engines indicated operating temperature. The transmission temperature will be very stable with a system like this unless; the radiator is bad, or the transmissions heat exchanger located in the radiator is ineffective. The transmission fluid flow rate through the heat exchanger should be checked. We use a simple procedure to determine if a system has any flow restrictions. Restricted flow has the same result as inadequate cooling or inadequate lubrication to the transmissions hard parts. It is our strong opinion that the effectiveness of the transmission fluid temperature control system cannot be determined without the use of a temperature gauge!
3. The other part of the transmission fluid temperature control system that needs to be understood, set up and made to work correctly, is the torque converter lock up clutch. This system is very easy to install, understand and use. With proper management of this system, overheating of the transmission fluid can be prevented in all driving situations as long as the cooling system is in good condition.

 

Running the trans lines to a radiator type set up is the best way to go, its designed and used to regulate the temps for the trans better.
But if you dont have those options, you can use a larger auxillary cooler in the air path of the vehicle underneith or where it will get some airflow.
if you need additional cooling due to load on the trans or hard launches etc.. run a switched or thermostatically activated fan to aid in further cooling for extreme situations

 

Thanks for the replies. It appears I can go either way. I'd like not to have to spend the money for a new radiator. I don't plan to drag race the car and it won't weigh much so the load should be minimal. If I can find a good deal on a radiator I'll go that route. The best explanation I've heard is.. if you had a hot piece of steel, would you cool it in air or water?.

 

With a Model A you really don't need much of a cooler. Many times I have taken 5/16" steel line, and made my own. I decide where I have space and run lines back sometimes just along the drive shaft, then make 5 or 6 coils around a piece of 4" steel pipe (just for a die) then back to the ******. I support that with some kind of rubber hanger. Most often a muffler hanger. All one solid piece. Unless your going to tow something you won't have any issues. All you need is moderate air flow around it. Way cheaper and better looking if you can even see it than a store bought cooler or a new Rad.
The Wizzard

 

I think I may go the compact Derale type cooler with the electric fan. While not as efficient as a radiator type, I think it is the next best thing.

 

The radiator ones aren't as efficient as you might think they are. If you think about it, all they do is drop the temperature of the fluid down to 180 or whatever your engine runs at. We run the round finned ones that are a double p*** design (both lines on one side) and they even cool a TH350 behind a 468 CI Olds. They are much more efficient than the radiator type and also do not contribute more heat into an already stressed radiator.

Don