Need to remove the original paint from a 33 Chevy, can you recommend a "specific brand chemical paint remover"? (Have s****ers and Clean & Strips discs...but need an effective paint remover.) Thanks
You're looking for the active ingredient methylene chloride maybe like http://www.industrialcleaners.com/3108_cid.htm Pay attention to the MSDS!!!!!! .
I have been reading a lot about this myself and trying to find the right one. I have used the acetone, klean strip stuff and some others with varying results. I think any of them would work a lot better if they didn't dry up so quickly. I read this old article today: http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/208.cfm. It mentions Eastwood DeKote as being superior as it doesn't dry up and you can leave it on overnight. I am really interested in trying it out, however eastwood doesn't list if on their website. I shot them an email requesting more info and will keep you posted.
The key to success includes first scuffing the surface to be stripped to give the stripper more surface area and tooth to grip to, and don't apply the stripper to hot surfaces or exposed to direct sunlight. Rock Miracle is my weapon of choice. It works great for me.
I've been using NAPA's paint stripper to remove the orrigional finish and primer from my 28 Studebaker. Well,,err the wifes been doing it.
I know its not the advice you are looking for, but in my experience, dont do it. Save your lungs, skin, money and time. Collect your pennies and get it blasted. I found an industrial truck repair place near me that blasts for extremely reasonable prices. Just my 2 cents.
I used to use the aircraft stripper, then I tried Blue Lightning sold at swap meets and it works much better. I like to spray foaming oven cleaner from the 99 cent store on first to get off all the grease and some times it disolves some types of paint.
I did recently get a spray bomb of paint striper that worked fine stripping paint off the chrome and stainless on the COE. It also removed thin bondo letting it sit a bit longer. But I secound the blast advice or acid dip. I will use an 8" round bondo sander to strip just a panel.
Edd: All the above is actually sound advice, I will give you my opinion as well. I have stripped a LOT of paint with chemical stripper and at the moment I have Klean Strip in the garage. It works best in the 80 degree range. Much hotter than that and it will dry up, temps down in the 60's or lower and it slows it down. Generally, you will get only one layer of paint at a time. You need to let it sit and do its thing before s****ing/wiping. I have learned to be patient and use a plastic squege to remove the paint. Blasting is great but you better know someone with lots of experience with sheet metal. Have fun, Tim
Lots of good advice here. In the end the paint will be gone so it's really a question of what you are comfortable with. If you go the chemical route (MEK based) there are several concerns beyond the potential health effects. Any residue left on the metal will ruin any future paint job. I've learned to mask any seams or crevices before applying chemical stripper, and make sure you don't "rinse" the residue someplace you'll have trouble getting it out of. You can go back latter with a wire wheel and get the paint you had masked off. To keep the stripper from drying before you get the result you want stick to small areas you can work to completion. Immediately after applying the chemical cover the area with plastic sheeting, and only expose what you can s****e or scrub in a few minutes once everything is bubbled up to your satisfaction.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o> If you decide you'd prefer to avoid the mess/risk of chemical strippers and opt for blasting, be sure the operator understands how not to warp your thin sheet metal, and be ready to seal up the raw metal immediately with a good quality moisture barrier (DP or similar) as flash rust happens fast if you're not working in the desert, in the summer, in the afternoon.<o></o> There are alternatives too. I once helped a friend strip an early Nova to bare steel with nothing but razor blades. Cheap and effective, if you have the time.<o></o>
<!-- / message --><!-- sig --> Alfredo, On a warm day 70* to 80* it would remove 2 layers of laquor and leave the primer soupy, we were able to wipe it off with a rag. Costs almost as much as blasting but we wanted to dispose of the old paint and rags properly.
Best one I ever used was Capt. Lee's. You can only order it online. Its clear like water....very little odor....neutralizes with water and doesn't leave a slimy mess to clean up.
Nitromethane will take the paint off in a millisecond. It was developed as an industrial cleansor and you know what those damned hot rodders did with it. It strips paint like nothng else will - it isn't as flammable as you think, until you compress it. I believe you can get small quan***ies of it at those RC car and airplane hobby shops because thier engine run on it.
I used chemical stripper till I discovered 'coating removal disks.' They work awesome! They don't produce much heat and remove paint with ease. The only draw back is they're not great for tight areas. http://www.roarksupply.com/product-p/4.5cleanstrip.htm
RAZOR BLADES ON A WINDSHIELD STICKER REMOVER TOOL and lots of time/patience You'll have no worries about painting the area Good luck Bruce
If you have the money have it blasted off by a GOOD blaster that will not mess up your project.. If you are budget minded, aircraft stripper in a five gallon bucket from an auto body supply house is GREAT. follow directions and let it work for you,
I used Strip-eze semi-paste available at any home center. Stripped My '41 Fordor to bare metal in a couple days. Piece of cake. Taped seams with duct tape to keep the stripper out of the seams. Applied to a door, moved to next door and applied. By then first door paint was bubbled. S****ed it off with a razor down to bare metal. Two layers paint ,primer. Cleaned with mineral spirits. That was 14 yrs ago. No problems since.
My roadster had several coats of paint. I had to do it in steps. I did one panel and then the starter coat on the next. S****e what was softened off the first panel while the second one soaking. Then back to the first one ending up with co**** steel wool to get it all off. Time consuming but immediate gratification. one original coat of paint will be a piece of cake. All mine have been multiple coats. I was trying to find the first hot rod coat of paint on the cowl but I gave up. I use the stuff from the automotive paint store and not the hardware store.
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