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49 Chevy 12volt conversion help

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by PonyboyWWAC, Nov 29, 2012.

  1. PonyboyWWAC
    Joined: Aug 12, 2009
    Posts: 21

    PonyboyWWAC
    Member

    So my winter project is to finally convert my car to 12volt. I've seen plenty of kits online, I was wondering however if there's a cheaper or better way to go about this? I have a 235 straight 6, everything is bone stock. Only body work has been done. Any advise? Websites? Ect? Thanks in advance for any help!
    Cheers
    Paulie
     
  2. 53sled
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 5,817

    53sled
    Member
    from KCMO

    Don't cheap out. Get a good fuse block and colored wiring kit, new battery cables and resistors for the fuel gauge and blower, if you wish. But don't cheap out.
     
  3. PonyboyWWAC
    Joined: Aug 12, 2009
    Posts: 21

    PonyboyWWAC
    Member

    Working on a budget, but I do agree. Any ideas where to look? Maybe not buying a whole kit necessarily but piecing it together as I go?
     
  4. monkeyspunk79
    Joined: Jan 2, 2011
    Posts: 553

    monkeyspunk79
    Member

    Like 53 Sled said, you could (should) probably just rewire the car. An 8-circuit Rebel Wire kit costs $149 and gives you new everything to wire up a simple car without a lot of accessories.

    http://rebelwire.com/rebel-wire-products.php?cat=Wire Kits

    Otherwise you can reuse your stock setup but if its original to the car...its probably not a good idea. Cloth-braided wires and really no good protection on a lot of circuits in those old cars. (example: one fuse for all the light circuits on the headlight switch. That blows, and you have no headlamps, tails, brakes, dash or interior lights.)

    A cheap way would be to run voltage reducers on your gauges or whatever 6V accessories you want to keep and get a 12V regulator and generator or alternator. You can keep the starter the same and most of the wiring although it won't be sized properly anymore.

    Here's the rub: You'll be in there under the dash and everything anyways, why not pull some new wire and do it right? You'll have peace of mind that way if you want to keep the car a while. Just a thought.
     
  5. vinnymac44
    Joined: May 16, 2008
    Posts: 142

    vinnymac44
    Member
    from W. Oregon

    Talk to Patrick's Antique Auto. Good people, good products and lots of knowledge. They helped me redo my 53 PU.
     
  6. PonyboyWWAC
    Joined: Aug 12, 2009
    Posts: 21

    PonyboyWWAC
    Member

    Thanks so much for the help and direction. Where I guess I am most confused is getting an alternator to match up. Getting rid of all the old original wire is a must. The cloth is gone and its honestly scary haha. As for gauges the owner before me put a polyurethane gas tank in so that gauge doesn't work. Speedo doesn't work, only the battery gauge does. I still want to use all new wires tho, just hear it runs better, brighter headlights ect. The kits I've seen seem to only come with a harness and bracket for an altenator. So is there a way to figure out one that'll work for my set up?
     
  7. Rocky
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 17,630

    Rocky
    Classified Editor

    Before the [cheap] kits came out, I either used an existing complete harness and fuse panel from an old GM car [novas were the best] or started from scratch with a small NAPA fuse panel and rolls of wire.
    It sounds like you may not have enough experience to do a "scratch built" wiring so using a complete wiring with fuse panel from an older car is possible but those old novas/camaros have old, brittle wiring in them now.
    I'd have to agree with the other guys here...save up your cans and bottles and spring for a wiring kit. Before you do, decide what kinds of electrical stuff you want as far as
    power windows
    trick sound system
    generator or alternator
    aftermarket or factory turn signals
    gauges or idiot [warning] lights
    and anything else you can think of. count up how many circuits you need and add 5 [for add-ons later] so you'll know what you'll need in a kit.
    That said, some of the best wired cars I've had were wired from old Nova harness, washed in a 5 gallon bucket of soapy water and hung on the fence to dry.
    I've even used a harness from an 85 Shelby Charger....almost all the wire colors were same as GM. as were some of the connectors.
     
  8. PonyboyWWAC
    Joined: Aug 12, 2009
    Posts: 21

    PonyboyWWAC
    Member

    Again thank you so much, the wiring harness linked above wasn't actually too bad, so I feel that's gonna be my plan of attack there. As far as the under the hood part, that's where I am gonna need I guess more to know what all I need. As far as install I feel pretty confident. I am a mechanic by trade, but unfortunately only work on newer cars.
     
  9. 53sled
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 5,817

    53sled
    Member
    from KCMO

  10. PonyboyWWAC
    Joined: Aug 12, 2009
    Posts: 21

    PonyboyWWAC
    Member

    That's awesome! Patrick's auto actually just got back to me via phone. Apparently a 79monte Carlo alternator is gonna work for me. Would just need to fab a bracket and then begin wiring. To get started.. Would anyone recommend leavin my wiring in for now? Or can I start guttin it?
     
  11. dt50chev
    Joined: Mar 15, 2005
    Posts: 596

    dt50chev
    Member

    You may as well remove all of the old wiring. The cloth insulation is likely deteriorated and unsafe. I can give you a 10% discount on any of the Rebel wiring kits. PM me and I can help you figure out which one you need based on what accessories you intend to run. Rebel has super good technical support. Bob at Rebel wire is a great guy just to talk to and can walk you through any difficulties you may experience during your installation as well.
     
  12. 53sled
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 5,817

    53sled
    Member
    from KCMO

    If you try to use the old wiring, you will regret it. trust me. life is easier with new, bright colored wires.
     
  13. PonyboyWWAC
    Joined: Aug 12, 2009
    Posts: 21

    PonyboyWWAC
    Member

    Old wiring is def going. I was asking if I could take it out now? Or should I leave it in till I get a harness in hand?
     
  14. dt50chev
    Joined: Mar 15, 2005
    Posts: 596

    dt50chev
    Member

    The new wiring harness is marked and will install easily. No need to leave the old wiring in the car unless you need to run/drive the car until the new harness arrives.
     
  15. From reading your post, for now I would leave the old wiring in until you get the new stuff in hand. Always better to see where it is now than trying to remember what went where.
     
  16. PonyboyWWAC
    Joined: Aug 12, 2009
    Posts: 21

    PonyboyWWAC
    Member

    Thanks, will be in touch about the harness, can anyone give me a run down parts wise of everything besides the harness that I'll need?
     
  17. dt50chev
    Joined: Mar 15, 2005
    Posts: 596

    dt50chev
    Member

    What steering column are you running in this car? That is the biggest factor as to what other connectors you will need to complete the installation.
     
  18. PonyboyWWAC
    Joined: Aug 12, 2009
    Posts: 21

    PonyboyWWAC
    Member

    Stock column, three on the tree
     
  19. Rusty Heaps
    Joined: May 19, 2011
    Posts: 1,005

    Rusty Heaps
    Member

    I was in the same boat with my '50 Fleeline moredoor. I ordered the harness and nearly the first instructions were "remove old wiring". being somewhat green at this (only my second install), I was a bit leary. After just a few wires though I saw the light and ripped the rest of the old out. The job was a sinch. Have no fear.
     
  20. PonyboyWWAC
    Joined: Aug 12, 2009
    Posts: 21

    PonyboyWWAC
    Member

    Thank you, I had to re wire my tail lights a while back, pretty sure what actually is there is toast, so out it comes, and hopefully I can find enough to keep me busy till my harness is ordered and here, anyone know what I'll need besides the alternator?
     
  21. HUSSEY
    Joined: Feb 16, 2010
    Posts: 628

    HUSSEY
    Member

  22. PonyboyWWAC
    Joined: Aug 12, 2009
    Posts: 21

    PonyboyWWAC
    Member

    Awesome, thank you, this looks very helpful
     
  23. 38Chevy454
    Joined: Oct 19, 2001
    Posts: 6,800

    38Chevy454
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I believe your oil and tempo gages are mechanical, but fuel is electrical. You can make a low-cost voltage reducer for the fuel or any other elec gage with a LM7806 integrated circuit voltage controller. 12 v in, 6v out and also has a ground wire. About the size of a nickel, but you should add some heat sink or mount to metal for the heat sink. It has about 1 amp limit, so 1 per gage. Not sufficient for heater fan or radios.
     

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