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shrinking disc

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by FIDDLER, Nov 27, 2012.

  1. RichG
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,919

    RichG
    Member

    First off; subscribed.


    Secondly, are you saying you use a worn 50 grit disk as a shrinking disk? Is there anything you do to prep it in particular, or is it just simply a worn out disk?


    Thanks guys, good stuff here!
     
  2. Metal Mangler
    Joined: Nov 4, 2011
    Posts: 29

    Metal Mangler
    Member
    from Washington

    A few things here, I am by no means an expert but i do have quite a bit of experiance with this.
    1. The reason you use a shrinking disk instead of a "worn out 50 grit disk" is because you will remove no metal with the shrinker, even a worn out grit paper will take some metal out often thinning the project piece. Also you can control your heat buildup better better with a shrinker disc.
    2. Air is better than water to cool the piece simply because you are dealing with less mess and electricity+water = bad times.
    3. It doesnt matter what you cool the metal with, air doesnt make the metal shrink anymore than water, the heat defines the shrink not the cooling process, hell you can let it air dry if you want and you will still get the same shrink.
    4. When you shrink you start on the outside of the shrink and work your in, not starting in the middle. If you start in the middle you will lock the metal in and not allow it to expand because of the tightness of the surrounding metal if you have a large peak.
    5. When you shrink you want it to be hot but not glowing blue, its just like anything else practice practice practice, body work takes alot of patience and will never come out right if you are impatient and in a hurry. Its not for everyone.

    Matt
     
  3. the metalsurgeon
    Joined: Apr 19, 2009
    Posts: 1,237

    the metalsurgeon
    Member
    from Denver

    air is not better than water imo. dont worry about the mess its the rapidness of the water quenching the panel .Air is too slow.
     
  4. I got a big whoopdy dooo in a cowl induction hood to fix soon.
    I'm going to try your ice water method on that one and see.

    Problem is, I'm going to more than likely get wet, look like I pissed my pants, and then be cold. My hands will hurt from the cold for sure from a prior frost bite & If my gfi works I'll survive LOL

    Maybe ice water will work so much better I won't mind all that.

    Now if my frozen hurting fingers can't hold on to the grinder or get numb and I can't feel the panel , will you come out and show me how to do this ?

    I got gas money for you and I'll have all you want to eat and drink.
    I used to do Colorado springs to Cleveland about 6 -8 times a year for 5 years.
     
  5. the metalsurgeon
    Joined: Apr 19, 2009
    Posts: 1,237

    the metalsurgeon
    Member
    from Denver

    haha you got yourself a deal! I am going to use dry ice as an experiment.I'll let you know how that goes.

    my wife also can lend her hair dryer for your piss patch.(i think that's the correct terminology)!

    ......and good luck!
     
  6. Metal Mangler
    Joined: Nov 4, 2011
    Posts: 29

    Metal Mangler
    Member
    from Washington

    Actually metal will shrink according to how much heat you put to it, not how "quickly you quench it". So air, water, ice water, none of that matters.

    http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2237 Read the post from Randy Ferguson from Ferguson Choachbuilding Post #9

    Matt
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2012
  7. the metalsurgeon
    Joined: Apr 19, 2009
    Posts: 1,237

    the metalsurgeon
    Member
    from Denver

    Like I said in my opinion. From my experience this what works for me .yes it does matter because the material behaves differently under different methods of cooling used.
     

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