Sbc setting valve lash on fresh motor

I have the intake manifold installed, i seen a video with the intake off, and he set the lash on both the exhaust and intake valves one cyl. at a time. how can i do this with my intake installed? or must i pull it? JAN.

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rotate the engine, you can go through the firing order if you want, but each cyl. has to be top dead center or tdc on compression stroke, make sure you watch intake valve open then close, then you can set your lash. hope that helps

 

Hydraulic lifters? Spin push rod with fingers while tightening stud, when push rod stops spinning, turn nut 1/2-3/4 of a turn and your done!

 

This only works if your hyd lifters are pumped up!

 

lifters are not pumped up.

 

Definately wrong advice.

Doesn't work effectively with modern lifters, need to use the Pushrod up and down method.

The O/P should use the SEARCH feature as I myself and many other engine builders have addressed this issue 100 times over.

 

gpt it i'll search

 

I have been using the same method of adjusting lifters on a fresh motors for many years. I have had others dissagree with my method but I have not one time had to go back and readjust any.
I install the pushrods, rockers, balls and screw the nuts on part way. I then turn the motor by hand with a ratchet and socket on the ballancer nut. (spark plugs out of course) I watch the #1 exh pushrod go up then down then turn the crank about another 1/4 turn. I grab the pushrod and move it up and down while turning the nut. When the pushrod first quits moving up and down I then tighten another 1/2 turn. I then go to the intake on #1 and do the same thing. Go right on down the line one at a time in order then start on the front of the other head. You can do the same thing by moving the rocker up and down till the slack is taken up but you have to be carefull not to depress the plunger in the lifter while doing it. Untill the lifter is pumped up by oil pressure the plunger is very easy to depress against its spring pressure. Like I said other may dissagree but in the long run the result is the same as other correct methods.

 

So, why not prime the engine and pump up the lifters. Pre-lubing the engine adds many miles to a build.

 

u say the crank, u mean turn the balancer nut a nother 1/4 turn.

 

Watch the the cylinder that is half way down the firing order on a sbc to set 1 watch 6 when the exhaust closes and intake just starts to open it is on tdc exhaust. So 1 will be tdc compression just keep going with 8-5 4-7 3-2 6-1 5-8 7-4 2-3.

 

pre-oil the engine,big *** drill and a driveshaft from an old distributor,this should pressurize the lifters.
i usually soak the lifters in oil,cycle them to purge the air out,then install them.
i leave them a tad loose,and adjust while running.

 

one of these days
some one will do the adj
JUST like the
GM (Chevrolet) FACTORY did
...starting back in 1954 for the 1955 265 engines.
i have told and shown it ...
its not rocket science / or black art.

 

If I am reading your post right, you can not set both valves in one cylinder at one position of the crank.
Some people do it but it is wrong.

"Been in the cam business 60 years"

 

Yes you can, if that cylinder is on TDC after the compression stroke. Start on No. 1, after you finsh that one, turn the engine 1/4 turn and set both valves on No. 8 (next in firing order). When you get to No. 6 your timing mark should be on TDC again (just a double check). After you finish up No. 2, 1/4 turn more and you're on TDC again and can stab your distributor.

For a little bit of illustration start at post 27 here. It's a 409, but it's exactly the same process. I did it with the intake off here, but you can set them working with what pushrod you can get too between the rocker arm and the head.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=215715&page=2

That works great on an engine stand, but is sometimes hard to do if the engine is installed. Then you can set one cylinder at a time by setting the intake on that cylinder when the exhaust valve starts to open. Then set the exhaust when the intake valve goes past full open and starts to close.

There is another way by setting the engine on No. 1 TDC and setting certain valves, rotate the engine to No. 6 TDC and set the rest. I don't have the sequence, because I've never really used this method.

 

Really ?

Please explain why its wrong to set both valves this way.
60 years you'd think you would have a handle on this

The one up, adjust the other is your preferred method.

 

I use the Exhaust Open, Intake Close method, or EOIC--Exhaust open,Intake closed. Starting at # 1 piston rotate the engine until the rocker arm starts to open the exhaust valve then check/adjust the intake lash.To adjust the exhaust rotate the engine until the rocker arm has fully opened the intake and is 1/2 to 2/3's of the way back down...Do this for each cylinder..

 

Larry T is correct... the SEQUENCE is find-able

here it is EXPLAINED 3 TIMES,
but the end results are the SAME...


1) http://static.trickflow.com/global/i...on sheet.pdf

2)
A) With the #1 piston at TDC on the exhaust stroke, adjust
the exhaust rockers of cylinders #2, #5, #,6 and #7, then the
intake rockers of cylinders #3, #4, #6, and #8.
B) Turn the crankshaft 360 degrees (1 full turn) until the #1
piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. Adjust the
exhaust rockers of cylinders #1, #3, #4, and #8, then the
intake rockers of cylinders #1, #2, #5, and #7.
C) Leave the #1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke for
the rest of the re***embly.

3) one more way to say it


No. 1up cylinder, the setting may be adjusted
Ex: 1-3-4-8.
In: 1-2-5-7.

Then turn the engine one more complete revolution which will bring up.

No. 6up cylinder, the valves may be adjusted:
Ex 2-5-6-7
In 3-4-6-8

by now any engine BUILDER worth his SALT is using this method.
or they 'll say they use some bla bla bla method that's well JUST better than ALL the Chevy engines EVER built /***embled, that EVER came OUT of GM. wow there such hot shot engine builders that they Have built MORE engines than CHEVROLET or gm ( lets see how many is that LOL )

wany bag down , cap , screve, cut down, or discredit someone one for this information, ... call GM(NOT ME)

oh ya the engine is NOT RUNNING just like its not running at the factory.

 

All you need to know is the firing order. And then use some common sense in whatever way you choose.

Jack E/NJ

 

Any way that works for you is good
They all have pros and cons.

Tell me your best method and I'll find something you can **** up with it.
Tell me what you think is the absolute worst method and I'll tell you why and how it can work to your benefit.
Ask me again and I can point out a completely different reason.

Round and round it goes.

What the op asked was can he do the same method as the video with the intake on.

 

Wrong advise? So just skip pre lube or pumping up the lifters heck just start it! It be ok? Dry ***embly with valvetrain always works great these days??? Joking! It's evident the guy needed advice and I don't think I gave him any wrong advice...just saying! But what do I know?

 

Bingo.

 

Nasty you are correct. Should be pre-lubed of course. But you can set them and then pre-lube the engine. You are correct though. Lippy

 

I did it this way when I was 16 on the first v8 engine I ever built, and it was too tight.

At the time, I was just following the "How to rebuild a Small Block Chevy" book.

It was 1986, and the info/advice was bad then... and it's bad now.

***uming you have the cylinder you are setting the valves on at TDC...

Most lifter manufacturers want .030" lifter preload.

A 3/8" -24 stud has 24 threads per inch.

If you multiply 24 times 4 you get 96.

96 is how many "fourths" there are in an inch of a 3/8" - 24 stud.

If you divide 1" by 96... you get .0104166

So, for every 1/4 turn of the nut on a 3/8" -24 stud... you get approximately .010 of movement.

To get .030 of preload... you tighten the nut 3/4 of a turn past zero lash.

I have done a half a turn past zero for years... and it works. So, there is a little fudge factor.

This is also ***uming you know how to properly find "zero lash"... (Move push rod up and down and simutaniously tighten the nut until all the slack is taken out)

I suggest tightening, loosening, getting the feel for things... push the rocker arm down and depress the plunger in the lifter (they are quite strong, even before they have oil in them) and understand what is going on when you tighten that little nut.

Sam

 

I have adjusted a lot of them by putting the timing mark on zero, and starting with all rockers very loose bring them down while simultaneously spinning and niggiling the pushrod up and down, when there is no play in any of them, spin the engine one full turn and put in back on the mark, go down the line again and you will find eight loose one that need the same treatment. Takes a fine touch, but when I am satisfied I take them all on down just a shade over 1/2 turn. I have never had to pull a valve cover back off doing it this way.

 

wonder how GM does it?
can someone tell us or show us?
it would be interesting to know, just how
those engines are M*** PRODUCED with there valves adjusted and never having them run to splash oil?
WOW it must be amazing... hope we find out the secret soon

 

I guess this is part of the internet revolution that I just don't understand.

My terminology says that hydraulic lifters have no valve lash. We just loosened the nut until it started clacking and then tightened them until the clacking went away then another 1/4 turn. The engine would flutter a little until the lifter balanced out. Done! It is not rocket science.

Solid lifters had a lash (clearance) that had to be adjusted using a feeler gauge. Yes we did it while the engine was running using special clips on the rocker arms to keep oil from spraying on the the inner fender panels. This is what we did in the middle 60s with solid lifter Corvette engines. I got a lot of flack about this when I talked about adjusting the valve lash on a running engine but we did. It was the accepted practice back then. I'm an old fart and that was how old farts did it.

There are other ways of doing it but this has always worked for me. If I'm p***e?...well at least you know how it was done.

I remember stopping in a rest area on rt 40 to adjust my new roller rockers going to Cali. in 1968. The rocker instructions said to readjust after 500 miles. so I did on an interstate somewhere in Indiana.

 

once you've found out the 59 year old secret you'll never go back
it does not need to be RUNNING to adj....
thick headed and stubborn people have learned and ...

 

Read here it is not rocket science.They have made cams for a long time and have an idea of what works.
http://www.compcams.com/Instructions/Files/COMP4-115.pdf

0 to 1/8 turn and you are done.

T