Slapper bars

In the mid '70's there were lots around.

 

OH MY GOD. Gary Hooker must have know her too, but he went on to make HEADERS.

 

as my friend found out the hard way many years ago, traction bars don't like cats.

 

I ran Lakewoods on our 68 Mustang drag car in the late 70's. It hooked great and ran mid 11's with no hop. I had mine adjusted so the snubber was right under the front eye with no play at all.

Had to make sure they were white so everyone knew you had them on there.

Don

 

They can be dialed in great for drag racing, although antisquat is usually way too much. Absolutely no benefit for braking however, and need to be constrained just to prevent rotation into the street

 

That's what I ran back in the day. This pic is from the late 70's. They're still on the 55.

 

Keep the pictures coming, very interested in the different makes and designs.

 

As I recall mine were adjustable lengthwise. I think one section slid out from the other and then you tightened down a bolt when you had them where you wanted them. But it has been so many years ago I forget for sure.


Don

 

and the rubber bumper some times had to be Set HIGHER ,TO GET CLOSER to the springs.
the intent was for (traction) keeping the cars ride , with a way to avoid spring wrap ie hook the car to the cement ...lol

 

They made a world of difference om my OT 1970 Dodge Challenger. Before I added them it wheel hopped so bad I was afraid something was going to break, after, nice consistent launches good for 13.9@101 on the stock 440/4spd/3.23.

 

Traction Masters is still in business, and if you don't have a time crunch they can make them from your own spring plates cheap. They run around $120 a pair, and look very period correct!
http://tractionmaster.com/

 

I was looking at this picture of the TRACTIONMASTERS setup and was wondering, wouldn't the rear suspension bind if positively mounted front and rear of the traction aid?

 

I think you put a floater on the spring (ladder leaf) or use a telescoping bar.

http://www.competitionengineering.com/articles/chassis2.asp

 

"I was looking at this picture of the TRACTIONMASTERS setup and was wondering, wouldn't the rear suspension bind if positively mounted front and rear of the traction aid? "

Its important that the front attachment point is directly under the spring eye to minimize bind (to have same arc). That attached thumbnail would not be acceptable.
Also front attachment should be in double shear, not single as original Traction Masters. These are a cost effective benefit both accelleration and braking but are not the most effective solution to achieve instant center and antisquat solutions



<!-- / message --><!-- attachments -->