283 teardown question

59Apachegail · Dec 5, 2012

Hello all, I just got a very original looking 65 283 with power pack heads and a 2bbl carb. It is free, has compression and plugs look worn but good (I dont see any cracks anywhere). It is missing the valve covers, distro and oil fill breather. The rubber hoses are original but shot. I dont plan on running the engine for real just yet. For now I will use it to learn on and run on the stand. Since it has been sitting without covers on it I am afraid that stuff has gotten into the block. I dont want to try and start it without cleaning it up first. I dont have the cash or the tools to rebuild it right now. I would like to take heads, manifold and pan off to make sure it is clean. I wont touch the cylinders, cam, and crank just yet. There is some sort of sealant between the intake manifold and the block so I am thinking it will need gaskets anyway. Is this a bad idea? Is there anything I should watch out for or not do? Im pretty good at taking things apart and putting them back together without having left over parts.

Ill post tear down and build pictures for other noobs like me as I didnt find and other 283 rebuild threads.

Any info is appreciated, Thank you.

Bigchuck · Dec 5, 2012

First thing to do is buy a book on how to rebuild your small block chevy engine!!!

wingman9 · Dec 5, 2012

The David Vizard book is a good investment and will be your best friend.
Get it here: http://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-Y...eywords=how+to+rebuild+your+small+block+chevy

BOOB · Dec 5, 2012

If you're just pulling the intake, pan and covers there's nothing tricky about it. Pulling the heads will require adjusting the valves. A quick search on SBC valve adjustment and you'll find 346,792 different theories on how to do it. Just pick one. Same goes for SBC teardowns.

porknbeaner · Dec 5, 2012

I put up a thread on teardown and inspection for a tech week a while back. I used an olds engine but it is real basic no special tools required that may help you a little bit. it is here:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=679583&highlight=piston

If you pull the heads and pan the rest of what was done in this thread is not much of a jump. You will need a torque wrench and piston ring compressor to re***emble. If or when you get that far drop me a note for torque values.

Now for something small block specific, most small block chevy builders use silicone seal on the front and rear where the intake manifold meets the block. The cork gaskets that come with an intake manifold set normally squirt out and leak. If that is where you are talking about gasket sealer then you are just encountering a commonly done practice by someone who had some idea what they were doing.

To dis***emble it is just a mater of removing the bolts that hold everything together. You should pull the rockers prior to removing the heads and when you pull the lifters if you are not going to change the camshaft they need to go back on the same lobes. Find a simple trick to keep them in order in the thread that I posted.

An SBC is basically just an engine, it is all just nuts and bolts.

Good for you, know what you have before you try and run it and good luck.

terryble · Dec 5, 2012

I always find there is a reason the valve covers are off when I get car like yours. Drain the oil wash the valve area with good clean solvent letting it run down to the pan. Redrain the pan to get rid of the dirty solvent. Put in some inexpensive light (5/20) oil and filter and try to get it running. If it runs, run it til it's hot check timing etc. and evaluate what you have. If it runs good drain the oil and replace it with better oil and another filter at least you will know what you have and not suffer the disappointment of speculation. It may coat a little but I find it's worth it in the long run to know what I am dealing with.

Mr48chev · Dec 5, 2012

I'd definitely buy the book that Wingman9 suggested in post #3. I've used earlier versions of that book as resource material for teaching the engine rebuilding section of the auto mechanics cl***es I taught . It's a good investment for anyone working on a small block Chevy for the first time.

Something I would suggest for when you get the engine apart is to order a re-ring kit from http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=706
It's 104 dollars for the kit with gaskets new piston rings and new rod and main bearings. That would give you a fairly fresh engine that you should be able to trust for a number of miles. You would also want to add a timing chain and gear set too.

A complete gasket set from O'Reilly's runs 50.00 http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/s...l=Bel+Air&vi=1322581&year=1965&make=Chevrolet so that is already half the price of the rering kit and you would be putting the engine back together with the old rings and bearings.

If you run into something that you don't understand don't be afraid to ask questions. There are several of us on here who can give you a solid answer and solution to most engine or automotive questions. It's always best to ask first before trying to do something that just isn't going the way you think it should.

Good luck with it and keep us posted on your progress.

tommy · Dec 5, 2012

I wouldn't tear it down too far before you plan on rebuilding it. I'd pull the pan and look for critter nests and other unusual things. If none are found it's probably OK. A lot of newby's start out ***uming that the engine needs to be rebuilt. Who says so? I take the opinion that it is just a used engine like the DD in your driveway until proven otherwise.

CGkidd · Dec 5, 2012

I agree with picking up a book on rebuiling engines. I have the same book in my collection and still refer back to it even after building quite a few engines.

59Apachegail · Dec 5, 2012

Hey All,
Thanks a lot for the help and offers to answer questions.
I just got done reading Beano's tech week and it is a great read. I'm definitely picking up the book and a gasket kit. I don't want go down too far yet as this engine is more of a test bed for setting timing, points, tuning a 3x2 setup and a complete rebuild later in the future. I will definitely post pics and updates as I go.
Thanks again!

porknbeaner · Dec 5, 2012

59Apachegail said: ↑

Hey All,
Thanks a lot for the help and offers to answer questions.
I just got done reading Beano's tech week and it is a great read. I'm definitely picking up the book and a gasket kit. I don't want go down too far yet as this engine is more of a test bed for setting timing, points, tuning a 3x2 setup and a complete rebuild later in the future. I will definitely post pics and updates as I go.
Thanks again!
Click to expand...

Sounds to me like you got your head screwed on right. Baby steps, the world is probably not going to come to an end before you learn everything you need to know. Unless of course the Myan calander is correct in which case we can discuss it on the 22nd in a land far far away.

26 roadster · Dec 5, 2012

PB, I'm glad I'm not Mayan if their world is going to end!............lol

1971BB427 · Dec 5, 2012

Summit sells a complete engine gasket set for about $30. All name brand stuff in their set. The front and rear intake gaskets are probably gone for good reason. Nobody uses them anymore, but rather uses a bead of Ultra Black RTV instead. Just don't start the engine right after ***embly, as the RTV needs to sit overnight to cure first.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g2600

porknbeaner · Dec 5, 2012

26 roadster said: ↑

PB, I'm glad I'm not Mayan if their world is going to end!............lol
Click to expand...

Their world was pretty much gone by the time the Conquistadors arrived. I am afraid. Actually there are still Mayan tribes down in an area of mexico called La Candon.

59Apachegail · Dec 6, 2012

The big haired guy on the history channel said they had a spaceship, I bet they all took off in it

I ordered a set of new gaskets and the book.
Tried to get rid of all the mouse poo and spider sacks.Sprayed the rusty exhaust manifold bolts with some pb blaster and let them sit over night. Went back this morning and sprayed some more gently worked the exhaust manifolds free of the heads. The bottom bolts are still pretty stuck so soaking for a loooong time.

I found that cyl 1,3,4 were oily from the head ports the rest were just very sooty. Same for the plugs. Not sure if the pb worked its way in or if it was oil.

So far so good

black 62 · Dec 6, 2012

<hr style="color:#e5e5e5; background-color:#e5e5e5" size="1"> Quot
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Their world was pretty much gone by the time the Conquistadors arrived. I am afraid. Actually there are still Mayan tribes down in an area of mexico called La Candon.

THANKS CLIFF

59Apachegail · Dec 9, 2012

My newest installment, manifold removed and the valley was pretty clean. I found a bunch of mouse poo in there and what looks like remnants of oil and water mix lying on the bottom. There was a lot of carbon/grease buildup in the head between 3 and 5 all the rest look good. The rear water ports look pretty caked but the front are clean. I can’t get the carb off even after pounding it with a mallet. I sprayed the mounting bolts with some pb after I hit up the screws on the exhaust manifold. Next to be removed are the heads.

tommy · Dec 9, 2012

It sure looks good to this non-perfectionist eyes. I had a friend that stored a fresh engine for years when he went back mouse piss had corroded the new lifters in the block. All of the used engines that I have used in the last 50 years looked about the same. The only problem is being able to live with the BS that comes from others with not spending 2000 on rebuilding it.

Before...

After. It smoked a lot until the rings loosened up and it is fine now. It took a few heat cycles with Marvel Mystery Oil to clear things up. You may not be so lucky but I would not ***ume the worst just because it has been sitting. The risk/reward is worth it to me.

Deuces · Dec 9, 2012

59Apachegail said: ↑

Hello all, I just got a very original looking 65 283 with power pack heads and a 2bbl carb. It is free, has compression and plugs look worn but good (I dont see any cracks anywhere). It is missing the valve covers, distro and oil fill breather. The rubber hoses are original but shot. I dont plan on running the engine for real just yet. For now I will use it to learn on and run on the stand. Since it has been sitting without covers on it I am afraid that stuff has gotten into the block. I dont want to try and start it without cleaning it up first. I dont have the cash or the tools to rebuild it right now. I would like to take heads, manifold and pan off to make sure it is clean. I wont touch the cylinders, cam, and crank just yet. There is some sort of sealant between the intake manifold and the block so I am thinking it will need gaskets anyway. Is this a bad idea? Is there anything I should watch out for or not do? Im pretty good at taking things apart and putting them back together without having left over parts.

Ill post tear down and build pictures for other noobs like me as I didnt find and other 283 rebuild threads.

Any info is appreciated, Thank you.
Click to expand...

Yeah!.... Keep an eye out for dead mice...

Old wolf · Dec 9, 2012

Nothing wrong with just taking the engine apart cleaning & regasketing. I once had a known good 305 sitting in the shop. It was covered up with plastic. the valve covers wher removed. it sat this way for only two weeks. we installed it in a vehicle with fresh oil & filter. It ran great.after a week the oil pressure went away. Mud Wasps (dirt daubers) had got in and built mud nest under the intake. the oil washed them loose and the dirt sanded the bearings & crank ect.When I get a old engine I remove the spark plugs and inspect them. If they are clean with only carbon build up I gamble it might be good. If they are oil fouled chances are the rings , valve guides or seals need attention. Im presently getting a OT 78 chev PK running thats been sitting. It has a 454 with a edelbrock aluminum intake carter carb & hedders. I soaked the cyls with diesel & ****** fluid mix. The spart plugs looked good. When I first tried starting it the starter just buzzed. The gear on the starter drive was busted off. I fixed that and did get it running. It ran poorly. I cleaned the carb and it still ran poorly wouldnt run unless I advanced the distributer. then it wouldnt start unless I retarted it. I put a new timing chain & gear and that fixed it. It had a roller chain that didnt look old but had plenty of slack . I put a new link belt type chain on it. Im of the opinion cheap roller chains aren asy better than the nylon gear OEM timing gears. OldWolf

R Pope · Dec 9, 2012

Gotta wonder why the covers were off....Did the previous owner have some "shiny" ones on it and they got liberated, or was there something wrong underneath them?

59Apachegail · Dec 9, 2012

Tommy Nice mill, what a huge difference!

Deuce I havent gotten to them yet but I have a feeling I will.

Wolf that is what Im afraid of one misplaced piece of crud in the wrong place. Im not sure if it was there or not but I found a screw in the valley. I cant tell if it was on the intake and fell in or not but it was oily.

Rpope I think it was a parts engine, there is a lot of little things missing (random screws, brackets etc). I hope the block is ok.

64LeSabre455 · Dec 9, 2012

I am going to be in the same boat in a few months, but I need to see if I can get it to run first. I would like to be able to test compression, but need to get the starter in.

Would you happen to know bolt sizes, thread count, lengths etc for the starter to bellhousing bolts?? I only have the one bolt that goes in from the back, just need the measurement for the bolt that goes in from the front.

40FordGuy · Dec 9, 2012

Buy and read the book...Go slow, and learn........

Happy Roddin' 4TTRUK

sunbeam · Dec 9, 2012

Bigchuck said: ↑

First thing to do is buy a book on how to rebuild your small block chevy engine!!!
Click to expand...

Are there books on small block Chevy?

59Apachegail · Dec 9, 2012

@64lesaber455 I'll check seems like you have the older style starter one was bolt in (starter end cone shaped) and then next was bolt under (starter end round). I don't know if she runs but for 34 bucks worth of gaskets i'm making sure I don't kill it if she does.

@sunbeam very same link at beginning was specifically for small blocks
lots of youtube vids as well (look for 350 rebuilds- almost the same).

What I learned so far 265, 283, 302, 305, 307, 327, 350, 400 are considered small blocks.
283 were bored out 265s in '57
283 got their own castings in 58
302 are 327 blocks with 283 crank (69 was when they got 4 bolt mains)
307 are 283 blocks with 327 cranks
348s are different.

porknbeaner · Dec 9, 2012

sunbeam said: ↑

Are there books on small block Chevy?
Click to expand...

Yea Smokey Yunic ( sp?) put out a real good one called "How to Hot Rod a Small Block Chevy" or something along those lines.

blue 49 · Dec 9, 2012

59Apachegail said: ↑

 My newest installment, manifold removed and the valley was pretty clean. I found a bunch of mouse poo in there and what looks like remnants of oil and water mix lying on the bottom. There was a lot of carbon/grease buildup in the head between 3 and 5 all the rest look good. The rear water ports look pretty caked but the front are clean. I cant get the carb off even after pounding it with a mallet. I sprayed the mounting bolts with some pb after I hit up the screws on the exhaust manifold. Next to be removed are the heads.


Click to expand...

Get a plug in the oil pressure sender hole before you do too much crud s****ing.

Blue

59Apachegail · Dec 14, 2012

65lesaber455 I haven’t gotten to pull my starter to get the screw size (on the truck), but I’ll get to it this weekend.
After a week of heating and pb blaster I finally got the bolts on the exhaust manifolds free. I plugged all the holes in the valley and the oil sender with some tissue for now. I pulled the 2-8 side head and noticed that the cylinder walls were very clean just a small scratch in 6. 4 and 6 were pretty full of wd40. I also noticed that Cyl 2&8 have an 11 stamped on them. 4 has a 10 stamped on it and 6 has a 12 stamped on it. Anyone know what that means? After pulling the head I realized I need to take it all apart now to make sure I got it all cleaned up. I am going to try to keep everything that is good on it (minus the gaskets). I measured the inside of the cylinders and got 3.874. Does this mean it is 30 over or is it rounded up to 40 over?

36-3window · Dec 14, 2012

3.874? 3.875 is stock bore

283 teardown question

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