The Dec. 2012 Banger Meet...1243 Ho,Ho,Ho,Ho,

Braze.....
I could get to the thin spot from the water Jacket and from the port.

I did make it much bigger before I could get it sealed.

 

Need a cam recommendation...

Will be running a Winfield 6:1 head (milled .025") on an A block bored +.060" (compression probably 6.3:1 with the above mods). Induction via a Winfield SR-B carb & intake, spark from a B distributor and an A slant pole coil, exhaust handled by a stock manifold with a straight pipe (no muffler).

Vehicle is a '27 T-Tub on an A chassis, 3.54 gears, stock A transmission V8 clutch, flywheel lightened to 37lbs.

I have considered Stipe's Winfield 3/4 grind, but I don't know if the SR-B can feed it (flows approx the same as a single Stromberg 81). A "B" cam would be nice, but I'd like a little more performance and a slightly choppier idle. Any suggestions?

 

has anyone put hair pins on a (4" drop) stock model "A" front end ?it seems i cant get past the drag link . need help . ........... thanks .. steve

 

With out pics I would say bend a z in the are to move to out of the way. On the plus side the Z will make the arm shorter.

 

I originally used a Winfield SU1R, be careful because there are several grinds that claim to be the Winfield grind. I started with a J Brierley SU1R grind and switched to a Mike Hart SU1R cam plus some other changes and the car ran slower, I tuned this and that and finally realized the cam from Mike Hart just didn't develop the same power. The problem was that I changed more than 1 thing so it was harder to find the cause of the lost power.

 

Bill, I appreciate the info once again! This is my first real 'build' and I want to make sure I'm doing it the right way. I emailed Mr. Brierley last night and received a very helpful email just a moment ago...he also recommends the 1R grind, so it looks like I'll be going that direction.

 

Heres one for the banger Gods.
I have a 29 Whippet banger in storage, it is a complete longblock with no carb or dizzy on it. Is there any use in trying to save this motor? Are any of its components, Head, crank, cam... etc. Translateable to a Ford A motor. Inquiring minds want to know?
Maybe one day I will be able to join this group in force as my next project is a 28 Tudor with banger in it. I have several stock old tired motors too work with when that day comes.
Thanks for any info you guys have on the Whippet

 

Jim did my R1 cam

 

No idea where the land of cheetos and etc are, but I'd be willing to give your engine a happy home

 

Haha I dought you would want to pay to ship a boat anchor from Northern California to Georgia. I've had the motor for ever. Really I have. Its survided not being scapped so far so don't worry I wont be tossing it anytime soon. I wondered about Ford applications because I got it with a huge load of A stuff

 

Here is a good guide for cam specs that Jim Brierly does.
I've run the 1R cam too on the street and it is very good. I wanted more lump, so this time I'm using his M-28 T cam.

.

 

i have a little "A" motor i really like . every day driver & ez to use . weber / header / electronic ign. / 6-1 head / cam ( reground 77b cam (260/320) ) . it has a nice lope at an idle !!

 

In my experience the Mike Hart SU1R had a bitchin' sounding idle. I pulled the Jim Brierley cam out and installed the Mike Hart cam. It had a good sound, lopy idle but it just didn't go as fast. With the Brierley cam we ran 76 MPH at the Antique Nationals, never ran any faster than 73 MPH with the Mike Hart SU1R With the Brierley cam we had 1.650 intakes, with the Hart we had 1.75 intakes. With the Brierley a Jobe recurved Mallory, with the hart a Remund (FS) ingnition. I 'm now running a Jim Brierley SU1A I use the Brieley cams because he is close and doesn't require you to supply all of the technical specs. He will tell you what you what you need as will most other cam grinders. I'm just passing along my recent experience. Hell, ain't 12 years recent?

 

Team member Phil got three of our dour intake tubes made...

It will have a LOG manifold with two butterflys to let the air in. Injection set up by Gene Adams...

Can't wait to hear how she thumps!

Sam

 

18,000 cuts on the mill... Phil is an artist.

 

OK, need to ramble to my banger buddies....

Putting together a '30 roadster, full fendered, Model B radiator & shell, 17" wires. Have decided to be somewhat hardcore and use a '32-34 front end complete with mechanical brakes. Engine will be pretty strong (Stipe 340, big intake valves, milled Brumfield head) but I am running a tricked out B distributor and a Model B carb so it looks pretty stock. Considering two B carbs as a dual updraft. An A block but I have some B goodies - four blade fan, big oil breather, etc.

I built a '39 tranny to go behind the banger and am planning to use a '35-36 standard steering wheel and horn rod.

But... I am thinking about building an early trans with an 18 series case and a slanted tower and finding a '32-34 steering wheel. In other words, keep the whole build '34 (Model B) and earlier.

Am I insane? Esoteric BS? Would anybody else care but me? Does anybody else need to? Or is there a clean symmetry to my plan?

Happy Holidays,
Will Kimble
www.kimblemandolins.com

 

Sounds like a good plan, Will. I would say go for the 32-4 parts.

Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app

 

If the build appeals to you, that is all that counts.

Other then the cost of the items, your build is very feasible.

.

 

Reverse flow I like it.

 

I have a couple of flathead canister oil filters laying around and was wondering if anyone is using a setup on their banger. If so do you have picts on how you did it? I know that it is not pressurized but I figured something is better than nothing and I don't really like the look of of the modern spin on type. Suggestions?

 

Posted this over on the Ford Barn...figured I'd try here too; can we get a list of A & B head gaskets and compressed thicknesses? There's a lot of conflicting info on the web and Fel-Pro said they don't know...

 

This might be a little of topic, but it comes from a real bearded Santa
http://www.mafca.com/events/dec25.pdf
It is model A themed
thanks all Santa Ken

 

LOL! If a NW HAMB relay ever happens, I'll give you a call !

 

While you are wondering about compressed thickness of the head gasket you should also be concerned if the gasket you are considering will clear the valve pockets with out hanging over into the combustion chamber. That information might be hard to find. I use trial and error. I have a couple of stock A head gaskets that I use for reference. My repop Winfield "Crows foot" requires the use of a B head gasket. I machined .012 from the tops of my pistons to comply with J&E piston to head clearance requirement. I doubt that Fel pro doesn't know, you probably talked to some one who didn't want to be bothered
I have owned, in recent years, 2 original Winfield Crows foot" heads and could not find an off the shelf head gasket that would clear the valve pockets. I had thought that the first one had been opened up by a previous owner but the second one looked exactly the same so I think this was the way they were shipped. The web between valve chambers is only .190 to maybe .210. Might be able to clear 2" valves! I have a freshly annealed solid copper head gasket for that head.

 

ill take the boat anchor ! im in ca. .... sacramento

 

Thanks Ken err, Santa. I really enjoyed it and Merry ChristmAs to all.
Ron

 

While I was on recent visit back to Memphis, I went to a buddy's shop where he is putting the finishing touches on a very well-known rodder's 32 five window. Didn't get many pics, as the camera batt died, but these are enough:

"For an erection lasting more than four hours................................"

Donovan short block with Steve Serr Miller head . coupled to a 5 speed and QC.

 

Good point Bill. My head is an early one (serial #227) and it has pretty conventional chambers. A Fel-Pro 7013 matches perfectly.

 

Will,

I have completed a 31 roadster project similar to what you are thinking. A couple of items to consider/plan for.

The 32' front end is good for lowering the front maybe 2". Use with a reversed eye spring and you'll get twice that. I used model A spindles and brakes on mine. In order to use the mechanical brakes you will need 32' perch pins to keep the geometry correct. I have found these difficult to find a good pair. If you have a good set you are ahead of the game.

I installed a B motor with a 32' transmission case with later gears and shift tower. I had to make adapter plates to mount model A float o motor mounts to the 32' bell housing. 33-34 bell housing are different and can not be adapted.

The Clings adapters for the wish bone mount and pedal mounts will not work "as is" with the early transmission case. I ended up modifing the Clings adapters to make them work. Easier than starting from scratch, but still a fair amount of work.

I can give more specifics and photos if you are interested. Good luck with your project.

Jim

 

Will, Still in the works on mine but I used an A motor, B trans with 40 gears and later top. Front end is all 32 including radius rods and a 32 K member cut down and a B front motor mount. Had to use the rear part of the B oil pan to cover the flywheel which was lightened. It goes together nice like it belongs there but there is still a fair amount of work.