I would like to see how you are routing your wires through the firewall. are you pulling wire through a hole with a grommet, using a connector like a cannon plug or some other set up? (thought I recently seen an Ad for firewall cannon plugs). I have only wired a few cars and I use the wire though a grommet process. I would like to have the option to disconnect the wires are the firewall if I need to remove the front sheet metal and at the same time like to keep everything nice and neat. I know there must be better tricks in use by experienced wiring guys or higher end rod shops. I would like to see what kind of connectors are available and how others are running their wires
A lot of the plugs don't allow for the rather large "power in" wire. I have used pin plugs(15A) before for everything but the power. I used a GM power terminal on the firewall and a grommet on just that wire. Most people want everything hidden(?) so I usually come up through the toe boards and up the inside of the firewall.
I made some wire looms that go back to the rear of the engine and the wires go under the fire wall and come up under the irremovable transmission cover, the only thing on my fire wall is the mastercylinder
I use the grommet method. I use GM weather pack connectors on any outside connections. They can be unpinned and then reassembled. I usually put the plugs through the toe board next to the cowl. 1 for the engine, 1 for lighting. On fenderless cars I will string lighting wires through a 3/8 steel line from the cowl to a junction block by the grill shell and attach the tube with Made For You clamps. Makes a very clean install.
Here's a shot of the cannon plugs , good connection and watertight . If you need to pull the engine just disconnect the plug .
I used whats being called a cannon plug, (never heard that name I just know them from boats and c-b's / vhf radios) , hid mine in a weather pack elbow and ran steel tube down along the frame very little actual wire visible ,
I used a grommet and didn't like it sticking out like a sore thumb so I cut the bottom off of a voltage regulator cover and slipped it down over where it covered the opening and mounted it to the firewall. it looks like a reg. connection to the untrained eye and a good recovery from an ugly wire to the trained eyes
Grommet. Or a slit heater hose tied to the wire bundle where it passes through the hole. Traditional is as traditional does.
Here: http://www.newark.com/documents/pei/Fed_Gov_June07.html http://www.mouser.com/Connectors/Circular-Connectors/Circular-MIL-Spec-Connectors/Circular-MIL-Spec-Connector/_/N-9ulxv Or my personal favorite: http://www.mcmaster.com/#multipole-connectors/=kqhe7p http://www.mcmaster.com/#multipole-connectors/=kqhejs http://www.mcmaster.com/#multipole-connectors/=kqheup
I have taken two hole-saws,and some thin aluminum plate(maybe 3/16"),screwed the aluminum to a board,and drilled the aluminum with the hole-saws. Let's say a 1" and a 1 1/2" saw will give you a 1" Id and 1 1/2" OD ring. Drill part-way through enough to score the aluminum and create a pilot guide hole,then drill 3 or 4 mounting holes in the ring in a nice pattern and countersink them. Use these to mount to the board and later to the firewall. Finish hole-sawing inner and outer after screwing to the board,then file & clean up the edges.screw back to the board and buff till it shines almost like chrome. Place aluminum ring over old inner tube rubber,and cut a circle of rubber with an inner hole slightly smaller than the wires/heater hose/whatever to pass through, and mount to the firewall with SS screws or bolts& nuts Cheap,nice looking pass-though seal that really doesn't take long. I'd post pic,but I did this back on a car in the '80's and don't have the car or pics
Canons look a bit streetroddy to me. Nothing wrong with the old grommets. I'd use slightly larger blanks, small cross split, and the minimal amount of wires going forward will pull back through easily if required. Grommets are just proper.
You can actually buy the multi-pin locking bulkhead connectors used by OEMs at reasonable prices. If I need to use one, I'll run the harness down the firewall until it's just out of sight, then install the bulkhead there. Or use a mag and pushbutton starter. Really cuts down on the wiring...
NAPA sells bulkhead connectors in their catalog. Just ask the counter guys to show you their connector catalog. I prefer my wiring to not go through the vertical portion of the firewall. I bring mine through down where the firewall is angled near the floor, and use a grommet that has a flat rubber in the center. I cut an X in the rubber and pass my wiring through it. By bringing it rhough down low I can route the wires along the frame, or behind the engine, and not have a grommet or connector showing up high.
If you are a cheapskate like me, you can terminate all your external wires (after passing through the grommet) inside the cab using a 12way terminal strip, so if the front clip needs to be removed, you just have to disconnect the wires at the strip and pas them out the hole. You can get these to handle up to 50 amps , probably from Radio Shack? in the U.S.
I personally don't care for the high tech pieces. This is what was stock on 56 Fords. The rubber piece is held onto the firewall by the metal retainer. The rubber protects the wires from the metal firewall edges. Both are available reproduction Here it is on the right. I restored mine and painted it with gold paint to resemble a brass retainer. The nice thing about it is that you can cut a bunch of holes in the rubber to fit your special needs.
35chevy, thanks for the link Tommy, I really like your set up for those that need to out in the open.. 56 car or truck? 36 roadster, I am using terminal blocks currently out near the radiator support for all the lights I know the cannon plugs are streetrod but if used out of sight, it makes disconnection real easy if the need arises
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