Hey all, got teh 61 dual clutch/brakes master and clutch cylinder. Several people have warned hat you need to switch the guts around. Can some one clarify this as truth and how and what has to be done.
If you're using it in conjunction with the original chevy pedal ***embly that the MC was made for, no, it's fine as is. If you are running a pedal ***embly that does NOT switch the port functions, then yes, you need to switch the guts. It's easy; just remove the circlips, remove the guts and flip them into the opposite bores.
Yes, as above, if you are using an "Ansen" style pedal setup you'll need to swap the position of the guts. The difference being that the brake side had a residual valve and the clutch side does not. The residual valve is for drum / drum brakes. If you are doing something different you may have to make changes.
Its not that you have to switch the guts around, Its that the clutch side does not have the bleed back port drilled all the way thru. It is started but not drilled all the way. If you are running it on the firewall as they were originally designed you will not have an issue. On my dads 31 tudor we turned it around and mounted under the floor boards. So I had to finish drilling out the bleed back valve on the clutch side since this would now be used for the brakes (you have to dissaseemble the master cylinder and then run a hone thru it to clean up any burs). If you look down into the resvoirs on each side you will see what I mean about the bleed back ports The other downside is that the clutch side will have a bleed back valve so it will not adjust automatically as the clutch wears. You need to have a way to adjust the clutch with the linkage. Or you could plug the bleed back valve on the new clutch side. My dad had used this setup back in the 60's but the brakes would not release so the car was parked. I got it running in the 80's after going thru the brakes and finding the reason why the brakes stayed locked up.
No you DO need to swap the guts. It's very simple. Just pull the snap ring from the back of each bore and swap the internal parts in the order that you take them out. replace the snap rings and fill er up. The pedal ***embly under the dash swaps the sides for the M/Cyl. on the trucks so the brake pedal on the right actually moves the piston on the left. The difference is the residual pressure check valve that will be in the brake side.
Thanks guys. I am building my pedal ***embly with clutch left, brake right, so I will have to switch 'em since my pedal ***em will be similar to the Ansen set up. I am drum at all 4 ends, so the resid will work well for me. Thanx for all the quick comments
i thought the bore sizes are different on some of those. my remembering muscle aint so good, but either way take out a check valve and put one in, whatever size. i didn't drill anything, but do have a way to adjust clutch externally.
Those MCs were used into the big truck series also that's where you find bore differences. 1/2 to 1 ton both sides are 1-1/8. and ALL of those MCs used external adjustment clutch slaves.
****...now i have to take mine out again...didn't notice the pedals where backwards...better now then on its maiden voyage....
Not to high jack this thread but....i dis***embled mine...now im confused...the cluch side had one seal stuck in the spring and none on the end of the spring..and the brake side had 3 seals at the end of the spring...i ***ume that there is suppose to only be one at the end...any thoughts ? Maybe the little Chinese kids where just off the day mine was put together ???
Geez, no wonder people have trouble with modern made old parts.. Only one thick rubber washer is needed, at the very front of the brake bore. That seal washer is the first part to install on the brake side bore. But then there is supposed to be the valve attached to the forward end of the brake bore spring, that seals against that rubber washer. In case you don't know what the valve looks like; it kinda looks like the small metal cap of an old salt shaker...has small holes in it, and snaps onto the spring. I could be just guessing, but i wonder if they used a stack of washers because the spring is too short?
I had the brake side apart when i first installed it and removed the residual valve...(front disk brakes, 10lbs inline for rears) never looked at the seals down inside it...glad i read this post and decided to dis***emble it... its back together now...one seal on each side...just need to re-bleed everything...spring pressure feels fine...pushes it back out to the snap ring.
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