So Model A Ford with '32 ******, '32 K member. Ok so I get the whole '32 pedals and switch the brake arm from top to bottom for my hydraulic brakes. Question is do I really need '32 pedals or will '34 pedals work the same? Only difference I see at pivot points is the clutch arm on the clutch pedal of the '34 ***embly is further over to the right than '32's? Anybody put '34 pedals in an A?
I have a set of 34 pedals in hand. Just wondering if I'm missing something that '32 ones work better? Everyone always talks about using '32's but '34's are cheaper and should work almost exactly the same no?
I had both sets during my mock up and at one point installed the 33/34 pedals in the 32 housing which seemed the best situation but in the end I just decided that when I considered the value of the parts compared to work required the stock 32 pedals where a better fit. I think LOUDPEDAL uses 33/34 pedals in an AV8 build.
They are not exactly the same, but should work. I'm out of town until tomorrow, can get pictures of both side by side then. Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
The fact that more work is involved is what I'm not getting here. Both routes involve moving the brake lever arm from top to bottom of pedal and the rest is left alone. The clutch linkage lines up. However on the '34 setup use a different arm at the release shaft. Presumably a '34 arm? I think that's what I have as the '34 pedals clutch linkage lines right up. So where is the extra work? Same same no? Or have I not realized something yet? That tardel book insists on '32 pedals but why not '33 or '34?
Are the '32 pedal arms longer? Looks so in that pic. My '34's are landing more in front of the column by a bit.....
Appreciated!! That may clear something up. I have little doubt I can make the 34's work but it's more about curiousity and learning something I didn't know.
Also how's bout when I weld the arm on underside? Want that to be rockin tough no breaky!!! Any tips? Almost want to make one that I circles the whole thing.....
If you are concerned about the breaking of the weld you can take a piece of quarter or three eights bar stock and make a bellcrank that pins to the stock arm at the top and drops behind the center shaft. When pushing down on the brake pedal it will push back on the lower part of the bellcrank. You can bolt this piece to the original brake arm and it will work without and weld. You can also weld it and it will have the strength of the bellcrank as well as the weld. I did it as a temp fix on a Model A and it's still working fine. I can send pictures if interested.
I have a rough idea of what your suggesting, but explain what a bell crank is? Pics would be great if you have time..... I was just thinking an arm with an I closed top with a hole the size of the pedal sleeve, slide it on and weld it all the way round.....
Just because I didn't know either... A bell crank is an L shaped pivot arm that changes direction of motion through angle.
I used 49-53 truck pedal set changed the clutch shaft to later type with a frame mounted pivot, no lever on the trans
These are 34 pedals in a 32 housing. I did need to heat and bend them to the right a little so they cleared the frame. The 34 pedals are about an inch shorter than the 32's. I am still using mechanical brakes but for you to change shouldn't be a problem.
In the Tardel book he said he shortened the 32 pedals. Well looks like the 34's are already shorter. Why didn't he just use '34's? Haha I guess it doesn't matter, anything can be made to work, just curious why so many people insist on 32 pedals as the best and easiest option. Could it be cause they don't need to be bent slightly and are a better direct fit in that sense?
Looks to work out pretty good. What throw out shaft arm are you using? Just heated and adjusted the both pedals to the right abit? That looks like what I'll need to to but only a bit really.
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