Whats the deal I have a 14" chop saw older makita I have had it for years. Now it seems everytime I try and cut something it acts like it gets hot and work hardens? I know I am cutting cold roll.Is there that much diffrence in the blades it is a dewalt blade. Could the brushes be getting worn and loosing power? feels like it has power. Anyone else see this?
You sure you are not using a masonary blade instead of metal? Brushes do go out ... easy fix but dress up the armature if you change them out.
Redress the wheel with a grinder wheel dresser.Looks like a little spur.I got a bunch of wheel from the railroad becuse the wouldn't cut I just dress em up.
make sure you use blades specifically made for a chop saw. just cuz its round doesnt mean it will work.
They usually get used on those stationary chop saws with the bigger motors. I've got an old Black & Decker "Industrial" chop saw and have noticed a difference in performance with different blades but haven't had it out from under the bench since I got my bandsaw.
Glad to see this thread because I am running into the same ass problem. I have a variety of the thicker blades (DeWalt, China, Hungarian, Etc) They all quit cutting after you wear off about 3/4"-1". The grinding stone dresser helps for a couple of seconds and it goes right back to sparking and not cutting. It's like cutting chrome steel. In the past when I was widening wheels, I was using nothing but Makita wheels. They were the thinner wheels, they cut great,follow without waving, BUT are very pricey. I also would like to know, WTF is going on. I got a HF 14" chop and basically don'y lack power. I was trying to cut a couple of pieces of 6" channel on a 45 the other day and really got pissed. Would like to hear more input on this one.
I bought a new dewalt chop saw this spring because someone took mine off my work truck and didn't tell me. The blade that came with it did not seem to last as long as a new dewalt. The other guys at the shop use makita or metabo blades. They like them both. I bought some from sunbelt rental that were pretty good. I don't cut anything heftier than sch 40 pipe though. I would look into new brushes and a good cleaning, it you didn't get a masonry blade. One of the shop saws had a thick blade on it that said it was for metal, but it will bog down the saw and pop breakers trying to cut 2" sch 40 pipe. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
Best blades I have found (and I've tried them all) and only ones that I will buy are made by Makita. Last ones I purchased I got from Airgas for right around $5.00 each. Stay away from Harbor Freight and Norton as they will load up quickly. Cheap blades will build up a lot of heat because of poor cutting performance and actually start loading up with molten metal slag which is what causes them to stop cutting. Sometimes bearing down on the blade extra hard for just a couple of seconds will force off the slag and cause the blade to start cutting / grinding again, however its hard on the motor of the saw.
Norton - Gemini ….. From the welding supply store The thicker blades / wheels are meant more for hand held gas powered saws
I have that problem now and again.Usually happens when I get impatient and try to cut the steel without letting the disc get up to full speed. I let the steel cool then try again with the disc up to speed.That usually fixes the problem.
I GOT TIRED OF SCREWING AROUND WITH A ABRASIVE CUT OFF SAW. Bought this metal blade saw, could not be happier. IT HAS A 14 INCH DIA BLADE
Chop saw blades and cut off wheels for die grinders are similar, THINNER IS BETTER, but in both cases costs more. One thing I have noticed is on very thick metal, if the metal starts getting hot the wheel loads up and will not cut at all. Let the metal cool down and try again, I know we all like to get the job done now. Spraying with wd40 or water will help keep it cooler and from loading up but that gets messy. Aluminum loads a wheel up easily, wd40 helps cut that also. On a side note, if I have much aluminum to cut I just use a carbide tiped saw blade for wood.
Just like Chevy Gasser said you relly need to "CHOP" as you cut I usually plung for like 5 to 8 seconds then lift up a 1/8" (not pulling completley out) for about 2 sec. This allows the wheel to cut and air cool without building up and wearing off the abrasion. I use one of these almost daily and it works for me. Of course the harder the material the more you will have resistance and eat up the wheel. I really wouldnt use one for aluminum since it will slag up and be no good. Aluminum likes teeth so a a metal blade saw will devour the aluminum. Brent
When we're talking CHOP SAW are we talking about a Carpenters wood saw with a metal cutting blade or a saw designed to cut metal? I've got an old Makita I was going to set up to cut metal scrap, just wondering if the metal dust will burn out the motor. Bob
Thats the ticket, almost NO HEAT in your cut, here I am using my MK Morse Metal Devil...click pic for video.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AbslZuJ7gsI&feature=youtu.be
I use a Steel City saw w/14" carbide tooth blade. What a difference it has made. Between that and my bench mounted Milwaukee porta band it has changed the way I do things.
I would not recommend setting up a miter saw for cutting metal. They are not designed for that purpose and will not last long. I am a carpenter for a petroleum construction company and we did that to my old miter saw when the chop saw was getting new brushes. Killed it quick. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
Good suggestions have been posted. Even blade type, quality, are good, and everything else is right, if you get the blade hot enough it will tend to load up. That happens mosdt commonly when cutting heavy material. If that happens, per what has been posted, you need to clean it with an abrasive block intended for that purpose. If it is an ongoing problem a different blade might help, or maybe you need to cut less aggressively.
...... the same for table saws, radial arm saws, and circular saws. I have done it with all of those. Although you can use an abrasive blade in them, they won't tolerate much of that kind of use.
These are the best I've found... http://www.nortonindustrial.com/upl...ts/Brochure-Wheels-BlueFire-8359-Video(1).pdf
He, He!! Way off topic, but not really! Try cutting an old DV-38 molten metal aluminum contact firebrick from the old APGreen Refractories Company, Mexico, MO with a 14" diamond blade in a new Target brick saw! You have to have a full 1/2" water hose cooling the diamond blade to get it done!! pdq67
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