is it rational to put my 5.9 cumins midway in old yellowstone style bus? should radiator still be in grille opening i do plan on a'c front and rear how many feet of driveshaft recomended before rear axle?? see it done on coe's but wondering about cooling going to drive this a lot with trailer behind
I mounted a 5.8 Isuzu mid ship in a '46 Chevy COE and connected the radiator to the motor using about 18' of 1 1/2" copper pipe. It never went over 180* even with a car on the deck and towing a 26' travel trailer. I put the biggest rad I could fit behind the stock grill, approx. 2' X 3' X 4 row. A/C condenser on the front of the rad and 18" electric fan with shroud.
My motor is behind the cab and the radiator is up front. I have seen one with dual radiators mounted on each side of the engine. My pipes are treated steel and I use anti corrosion additive, I also plan on installing a sacrificial anode radiator cap. I use two radiator caps on my setup, one right at the thermostat housing and the other on the radiator. The radiator has a 2 pound higher pressure cap. The overflow is off the engine.
On the D/S go to your local school bus depot & see how the D/S on a simular lenth is done. I suspect a supported carrier(?) bearing on a 2 piece d/s, depending on the distance.
Better yet see what is under the bus now and where the driveshaft supports were hung. Or if there isn't anything under there to look at check about any 70's/early 80's front engine motorhome. The engine usually sits just behind the seats on those under a big box. Driveshaft length is probably limited to what the equipment at the driveshaft shop can handle and they can also help you figure out how to set it up.
ordered a custom built 6 core radiator and intercooler today.the cummins was turned up to over 380h.p. and the allison transmission are still cradled in stock mounts that actually fit well inside frame like a cradle. motor is newer from rolled pickup and trans from sterling ambulance,both real low miles guy at diesel shop says that stock shafts with center hanger will work just fine and will bolt cradled pairing in without even cutting either shaft. being real cheap on this as most monies will be needed for paint[yellow with black fenders. next is newer straight axle,when find the right width. the rear is also from sterling ambulance[dodge] so far everything is under 9g's and still selling parts from donor vehicle's going to get brave and try upholstery myself[angus cow hides or holstien]being cattle are butchered daily just 70 miles from here these are near zero cost before tanning,they butcher over 1050 a week
it is a White but not from yellowstone found in a shed in mpls. area it is weird as has 5 doors on the passenger side and 2 on drivers side the ones i have seen at yellowstone had 4 doors on the passenger side and 1 on drivers side went to look at a desoto 6 door wagon that was on craig's list hoping it was nice to do [my uncles had 2 of the desoto's]but the desoto was very tough and guy said he knew of this at a friend's house. got it for $900. like it because of the tarp roof,you can untarp and you have sky view ,and that should make build 25% less heard it was around chicago originally and that white built around 500 total buses like this ,but all but 5 were 4 doors on passenger side and shorter frame
max driveshaft length is limited by "critical speed" rpm. That is usually based on simplified calculations using length between U-joint centers and tubing OD. Adding Wall thickness doesn't make much difference in critical speed since the extra stiffness brings proportionally greater weight. some general discussion here - pages 3 and 4 http://65.170.161.218/~spicerpa/sites/default/files/pdf/driveshaft_installation.pdf online calculator here - http://www.wallaceracing.com/driveshaftspeed.htm
Pictures of the bus?, just because I like old buses Why can't the engine go where the engine was? I'm guessing that this body style has a long nose and hood. Or are you going to pancake the underfloor engine? Frank
Center carrier bearing will handle the driveshaft length, I'm also wondering why you want the engine midship? It would make alot more fab work, noise, and cost to change its location, as well as taking up living space.....
Of course not, but this ain't about what's rational. If we only applied rational thought to vehicles, this forum wouldn't even exist!
would like to pull into car shows with the vehicle on diesel power and the noise behind me than impress people with the old original motor running in its stall power play,imagination and having the pto and diesel powering air suspension and even a pto shaft for wheel lift on rear.
There were a lot of configurations of the park buses, White made the touring cars from 1917 to 1939 for both Glacier and Yellowstone. The two doors on the drivers side is different, if you could a picture and the serial number off of it would be cool as we can see what it actually came from and when it was built. The story of 500 of these I've seen in print also but nothing to back it up as far as the park service or White data.
will get kids to post some pictures next weekend,that's how they get an allowance. like your cross the fellow doing the fab traded all labor for an old dodge diesel pickup we had just sitting here,like the shifter on the dash for auto trans. going out today to windy hill to measure newer trucks with straight axle disc fronts and hydraulic brks pretty neat our local old car junk yard is open 365 and has lots of goodies
Put the engine up front where it belongs. Trucks have long drive shafts and they are the least of trucker problems. Why have a dog house in the middle of the cabin.
Feet? Two piece? Mid engined you will be talking more like 36-48 inches even in a tour bus? With a 91" wheel-base and the engine under the cab, my COE runs a 12-1/2" driveline measuring U-joints center to center....
1. Radiator behind the grille is best. 2. Long tubes/pipes transferring the cooling fluid from motor to rad should be no problem - the extra presure drop should be able to be handled comfotably by the pump, and there will be additional heat loss along the way. 3. Pics please. Cheers.
Thor1, do you know any dirt track racers from near you from sarona wi? got a kid who we sponsor from sarona works for bosch? #6 superstock.he is going to start building chassis besides work and racing we will more than likely be at chippewa ,menominee,red cedar and some other tracks near you this next season with the white
Hi guys im new in here , im after coe cabover truck ford or gmc , is there any one got any idea where to get one cheers
You might look at using aluminum pipe instead of copper. MUCH cheaper and you can get it in sched 40 or 80 6061 (or 6063 if you want to bend it). 1.5" sched 40 should be around $50 for a 20' stick.
using aluminum as that is same material as radiator,no galvonic plague. sold old radiator,top bows,seat frames to guy restoring another one going for comfort having good time with this chassis powder coated all 9 doors including barn style on back,fenders hood and all except main body are out being media blasted and will be back saturday body is on rotisery and should be getting about a month to 6 weeks work according to that shop. would be interested inyour modelA,look on any city mn craglist items wanted for kinds of cars and trucks i buy,passion drives me to do this 365
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