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1930 Hood Alignment

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by itsmeb, Jan 2, 2013.

  1. itsmeb
    Joined: Jul 18, 2011
    Posts: 74

    itsmeb
    Member

    I have to raise my radiator and shell to the cowl height to get the hood to align up, but them the hood sides are about 1 1/2 to 2 inches short. When I bought the car it was titled as a 1930, but I found the job number stamp that identified it as a 1930 Coach.

    Questions:

    Could I have the wrong year hood and need one with that would allow the radiator to set lower and still allow the hood to align?

    Could I have the wrong year fenders and they won't meet the bottom of the hood sides?

    How can I identify these parts?

    Thanks for your help.
     
  2. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,901

    need louvers ?
    Member

    How about some pictures of what you got going on for starters?
     
  3. itsmeb
    Joined: Jul 18, 2011
    Posts: 74

    itsmeb
    Member

    I will try to get some tonight.

    Thanks
     
  4. itsmeb
    Joined: Jul 18, 2011
    Posts: 74

    itsmeb
    Member

    Here are some pics,hope they help.
     

    Attached Files:

  5. It doesn't appear that the cowl trim line matches the hood trim line either.Could definitely be the wrong hood. I think that the 28 and 29 hoods had a similar look to the 30 but I don't know the dimensions . If you can find someone with one of those cars they can give you the exact measurements. You might try to post on VCCA chat.They would most likely know.http://vcca.org/forum/
     
  6. The hood & fenders look correct for a 1930 Chevy but as mosse pointed out the 29 & 30 Chevy hoods look pretty much alike,,not being a Chevy guy I don't know wheather there is any difference in the side panels.

    You recently posted about using something to cushion the body to the frame with a link to the site,,if you used that type of mount you may have raised the body up too high.

    Is there a gap between the splash aprons and the body now? HRP
     
  7. not familiar with `30 chevies.....maybe they use a hood shelf like a `28-`29 ford?
     
  8. itsmeb
    Joined: Jul 18, 2011
    Posts: 74

    itsmeb
    Member

    Yes I did use a 3/4 rubber mount for the body, but my gap is much more than that. Before with just the steel washers the radiator had to be raised to align the hood and the gap at the bottom was such that the latches would not reach.
     
  9. chopt top kid
    Joined: Oct 13, 2009
    Posts: 959

    chopt top kid
    Member

    I found this pic on Google. Look at how much space is between the bottom of the hood and the top of the fender/splash apron at the cowl???

    [​IMG]
     
  10. itsmeb
    Joined: Jul 18, 2011
    Posts: 74

    itsmeb
    Member

    It is hard to tell, but it looksa lot closer than mine. Mine you actually see daylight through.
     
  11. MATACONCEPTS
    Joined: Aug 7, 2009
    Posts: 2,069

    MATACONCEPTS
    BANNED

    There's 2 different front crossmembers for Model A's. One with an about 1/4" drop at the radiator mounts and one without. Changes the hood angle noticebly.

    This replacement frame I have now did NOT have it, my radiator was too high, I needed the drop, so I cut added it in & welded it back together.
     
  12. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,901

    need louvers ?
    Member

    Mata, you just got caught on the same thing I did yesterday morning... It's Chevy! I thought it was a Model "A" when I was looking at it in his avatar picture...
     
  13. MATACONCEPTS
    Joined: Aug 7, 2009
    Posts: 2,069

    MATACONCEPTS
    BANNED

    Fucken-A! At first I thought it had custom half-louvered hood sides.
     
  14. Fenders
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,921

    Fenders
    Member

    It's a 1930
    WTFuck make?
    Love these posts that don't identify their fuckin cars.

    Way to go, Newbie.
     
  15. it's a 1930 Chevy..according to his profile
     
  16. Fenders
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,921

    Fenders
    Member

    Oh sorry, didn't know we were supposed to read the post, then go to the OPs profile, maybe PM him too to ask WTF he was taking about....
     
  17. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,901

    need louvers ?
    Member

    Just goes back to the old unwritten rule... If you just drop a year, say '32 - it's always a Ford!
     
  18. MATACONCEPTS
    Joined: Aug 7, 2009
    Posts: 2,069

    MATACONCEPTS
    BANNED

    Huh. Every Year has its specific make. What make when you say 1957?

    Hey, That makes for a good thead
     
  19. chopt top kid
    Joined: Oct 13, 2009
    Posts: 959

    chopt top kid
    Member

    You could have looked at the pictures???:rolleyes:
     
  20. itsmeb
    Joined: Jul 18, 2011
    Posts: 74

    itsmeb
    Member

    Hey sorry guys, I did look over that aspect. I bought the car titled as a 1931, but when removing the wood I found the job number 30551. 30 for 1930 and 551 for Coach and built in St. Louis. The mistake in the year has lead me to think it may have 31 parts, such as a hood, fenders, fender bracket, etc.
     
  21. HRK-hotrods
    Joined: Sep 26, 2007
    Posts: 922

    HRK-hotrods
    Member

    The hood, splash aprons & fenders are the same 29 & 30, 31 is 3" longer in the front. What radiator shell and apron do you have? 29/30 or 31? The one thing you might try is first remove the door edge guards stuck on the hood. That could be preventing the hood from pulling down. You don't mention what if anything you have for welting on the fenders and cowl/shell. It's also possible that the cowl bottom was repaired and the patch put on too low.

    Post up some daylight pics of the top of the cowl, bottom of cowl showing door and rocker and also the radiator shell.
     
  22. HRK-hotrods
    Joined: Sep 26, 2007
    Posts: 922

    HRK-hotrods
    Member

    To clarify my reason for asking about the welt on the fenders and aprons...

    If you have the body mounted on 3/4" rubber pads and no welting under the splash apron or between the apron and the fender and top of the frame/under fender "shelf" then you won't be able to latch the hood. The welt is dual purpose acting as a spacer also and without it or the proper thickness, it throws everything out of whack. Same thing applies to the cowl lace. Too thick and even just new lace will throw off alignment until it settles...
     
  23. 30chevy
    Joined: Mar 28, 2008
    Posts: 11

    30chevy
    Member
    from Kentucky

    I have a 30 Chevy "coach" as well. I will measure the hood tonight and get back to you. I know the 1929 & 1930 chevy fenders are the same but 1931 chevy fenders are not.I would think the 1931 hood will also be different.
     
  24. itsmeb
    Joined: Jul 18, 2011
    Posts: 74

    itsmeb
    Member

    Got ya, thanks...
     
  25. itsmeb
    Joined: Jul 18, 2011
    Posts: 74

    itsmeb
    Member

    The shell and apron are 1930.
     

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