I am just getting started on my 56 dodge truck. It has a flat head 6 with a 4 speed stick. I want to do a frame off restoration. I am debating on just putting a new front end with disk brakes and rack and pinion and a different rear end or putting a Gen 1 dakota frame. I like the idea of using the flat head 6 and the 4 speed but the V8 would have the power to tow the 59 trailer we want to tow. I just wanted to see what people had to say?
them old 6 cylinders have a lot of pull if they're in good shape, it is a truck after all and they were built to work then
the dakota is.the best frame to use and i know these truck better than most gen one gives you the right wheel bolt pattern and mounts for a mopar motor and size is just right, yeah it will take some welding but there is no frame thats just going to bolt in. nice looking project you got just remeber have to have fun, thats the hardest part for me. -moparjoel
What's wrong with the frame it's got? I had a 54 5 window years ago, used it for a shop truck. I got it with a 383 already in it. The steering box was shot and I couldn't find a good one so I put power steering from a 4x4 Chevy in it and a tilt column from an Olds 98. FWIW, I worked the **** out of that old truck and the stock rear end took it. Recently I had a 55 5 window p*** through my hands, original V8 truck with three on the tree. Love that body style, arguably the best looking truck of that era.
Willowbilly 3 could you post some info on the 4x4 Chevy power steering? My box is also shot. I've rebuilt it already with new bushings and bearings, but the problem is the worm and sector which are very expensive. Thanks. Steve-
To Jake56....subscribed! I've subscribed to every 50's Dodge pickup thread on here. You can get so much useful info and ideas from all the build threads. Steve-
Most the units I've seen with later model frames just don't look right (to long, to short, to wide etc.) and I understand there is a lot of work to get it done. If the original frame is sound....I'd go with it and update the front and rear axles. JMHO
Update, Schmupdate...rebuild the brakes and kingpins, swap to a '68 Dodge D100 dual master cylinder, if you really want to swap motors then drop a slant 6 in there and you're good to go...put an electric brake controller under the dash to control the trailer's brakes...oh, and lower it a little bit with some spring de-arching, maybe add a helper spring kit out back for heavy loads...nice truck, and best of luck to you...
Gosh, that was almost 30 years ago. I don't remember the box being very hard to mount but building a pitman arm took most of a day of trial and error before I got it like I wanted. Also the angle of the rag joint was too severe and I wiped out a couple of them so I would use a universal joint if I was doing it again.
A couple of thoughts. If you are planning on towing anything then loose the six. Yup, it was done in the 'old' days, but that is why some of the trucks had 5:1, 6:1 even 7:1 rear axles. A Dak frame with a 360 Magnum will do all of the towing you will want to do in this size of truck. The Dak frame has a good suspension system and great brakes. Perfect fit? No. But certainly doable. Head on over to the Pilot House forum at www.p15-d24.com and see what those guys have done. .
Thanks to everyone. I think we will go with the dakota frame but until I actually get a dakota we will see if things change. Today we took the bed off.
Here's my 55 Fargo, love these trucks, mine is mostly stock but runs real nice. I have to get workin on her again real soon. Dakota or stock frame, your choice,time and pocket book, hope it turns out well for you....
weren't some guys using the 76 up Volare's whole k-frame as a bolt/weld in for a lot of transplants ? think the power stearing box is part of it as well...then a late b-body 8 3/4 rear end....just saying....
I recently attempted the volare swap into my 57 which shares the same frame as 56 it is doable but the frame needs to be cut at the firewall and new rails need to be built since the frame "hourgl***es" inward at the motor putting the frame right where you gearbox needs to go also puts some really goofy angles on the steering shaft also if you want to keep the stock style pedals you would need to fabup some crazy brackets to house the pedal mounting rod/ mastercylinder mounting plate and battery box, the cutting of half the frame was my turn off so I decided to go another route. I would strongly advise to avoid it like the many that advised me before i stubbornly attempted it. Go dakota ive really done my home work on almost every swap suggested to me and thats the gl*** slipper of frame swaps and keeps it mopar which makes me really happy. also the 8-3/4 is a perfect fit from a b body for width, perches have to be moved but thats all, my 57 had one out of a 68 roadrunnner.
There is no shortage of well used Dakotas; in the Portland area I see them for less than a 1k and in the Bend craigslist as little as $500 on occasion. Seattle should have plenty of them. The lug pattern changed from 5 to 6 (in '98 IIRC) so pre 98 will save some work. .
The first subframe I did, was on my 48 Dodge Panel. I used a 76 Charger K-frame & front framerails, & the rear suspension 8-3/4 with springs. On my current 48 truck, I wanted to do the Newyorker/Volare K-frame, but they are getting hard to come by. I purchased a MII front suspension & ford 9" with F150 rear springs, But I really want to keep the build all MOPAR so I came across several guys here that have used the Dakota frame, & my mind was made up. So far I am really happy with the frame swap. Work in progress!
The Dakota went from 5 on 4 1/2" bolt pattern with the 91 model year. If you wany 5 bolt wheels, look for a 90 and older frame. The 91-96 Dakota frames had 6 lug bolts, but could be converted to 5 bolt hubs simply by replacing the rotors in the front and the axle shafts & drums on the rear. Dakota's used 2 different rear axles between 91 and 96, either an 8 3/8" or a 7 3/8", the axle shafts were not interchangeable between the two, to change the bolt pattern, you have to get the axle shafts from the same size rear end. Changing the 97 and newer 6 bolt hubs to 5 bolt hubs was a major undertaking and probably not worth while. I did a 54 with the Volare clip, it is too wide, and you have to cut off the frame at the firewall and build everything new including radiator and fender mounts and bumper brackets. You also have to frabricate a front crossmember unless you expect the bolt on subframe to support everything. If you do a Volare clip, expect to cut a chunk out of your firewall and set the motor inside the cab about 6" deep, almost back to the dash. A Dakota frame has the correct relationship between the front suspension placement, the motor location, and the firewall aligns with the 50s truck firewalls (you don't have to cut the firewall to install a V8). Gene
I would like to put forth my 2 cents to the men whose espouse the Volare frame......don't use it. In it's day wonderful clip...the dakota has replaced it and done a better job of it. Also they are getting scarce and the parts stores don't know what they are.......
Don't forget about the Chrysler 265 six. Would be different than a small block, and there's probably still speed stuff around.
Im all stock frame and leafs... have a axle out of a 67 charger out back... 3 inch drop axle in front with some leafs removed, drives great and is tons of fun... I have a 318 pushing it down the road, but a well built 230 flatty has alot of grunt in all honesty. any questions we will help you out the best we can... Frame swaps are personal preference... I like rolling old skool and keeping it feeling like an old truck vs making it like some billet clad car with a bed.
We got the bed off and I am back thinking I want to use the stock frame. The frame is in good shape so if I spend the money on one of those new front end's that has disk brakes and rack and pinion steering. I have this steel plate from the bed that is about 1/4" thick so I am thinking of using it to box the frame for strength.
The Dakota frame is not a miserable frame, and I'm sure we all owned one that went 500,000 miles, but they are know to have had a lot of upper control arm troubles.
I've never had an issue with upper control arms with these trucks and can't say I've heard of any trouble with them other than replacing bushings when needed. Me personally, these are one of the best frames or clips to use. The only problem i see is the front track width is wide but can easily be remedied by narrowing the crossmember or get shorter control arms.
1/4" is a bit thick, 1/8" is better, but if you are watching what you spend & aren't worried about the extra weight, go for it. The MII suspension is a good way to go, & I would Opt for the larger brakes.( Atleast in my area, Original MII brake pads are special order from every parts house )
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