Hoping to hear a few folks chime in on flipping my firewall around. I don't like that it sticks out and the edges are rounded (like a stock Model A). I want to shrink my cowl to grill shell length, and I think flipping the firewall will also help with my pedal issue, since flipping the wall would place more of the steering shaft outside of the cab and thus remove it from my pedals' line of fire. I ***ume they are mostly spot welded? I see the bolted areas down by the feet of the cowl in the front. How are you guys removing the spot welds, drill, chisel? I was also thinking of cutting just 3/4 of it out, flipping the top section around, and leaving the bottom structure alone for strength. Yes, the lower legs will stick out 3 or 4 inches as compared to the top 3/4 majority of the firewall, but the 32s were like that from the factory and I think many of them look pretty boss. Anyone with firewall secrets, tricks, info. or pics, I thank you ahead of time for chiming in.
Is it a 28/29 or a 30/31 that you are working on flipping the firewall on? I have done a 30/31 in a sedan. It allowed me to have a 106 wheel base and didn't have any issues with a hanging pedal ***embly. I drilled out all of the spot welds and used an chisel to get them apart after that.
Sorry, It's actually a 30 Dodge sedan body, but the firewall is very similar to an A. I had a 31 5 window years ago, and this thing looks pretty damn close to it.
On my 27 T coupe I reversed my firewall for engine clearance. Worked out good and looks like it was made that way. I just drilled the spot welds with a spot weld bit ,not all the way through and used the same holes to weld back in. The bits are available at your auto paint supply store. You will have to chizle some and use a cut off tool. A little work but well worth it in the end.
I have done this before and the results are well worth the effort. As already mentioned I strongly suggest the use of a spot weld cutter. They're also referred to as a rotobroach or blair cutter, you drill a 1/8" pilot hole then they work in the same mannr as a hole saw using the 1/8" hole as a guide. You can wedge a screw driver a little bit in btwn the firewall & cowl and you'll find the spot welds pretty easily.
You know I have seen several guys reverse their firewall to gain engine clearence, And it is a cheap way to gain engine clearence. while I like too keep things simple, I still laugh everytime they say "It looks like it was supposed to be that way".......I just want to say to them.......No it doesn't!!...It looks like your firewall is in backwards!!....LOL
Well it is in backwards. I have been moving firewalls around for about 45 years now. It is easier on some cars than others. Sounds like your dodge is spot welded? if so they make a drill bit just for drilling out sopt welds, that is your best bet. you can get one from speedway or eastwood or dummit or ??? Drill them ******s out and go from there.
I did the one in mine. Fits a big block Chrysler just fine, although it's Chump powered now... Some old pictures: Drilled out the spot welds, put a couple slices into the edge as it tapers into the car, bolted it back in.
Okay, so I finally got some time and flipped it around. Wow, the original firewall really looks aftermarket once flipped; but I still want a flat wall with polished alum; so I am going to boly 3/4 ply on it. It will sure it up, cut back on sound, be easier for wiring and carpet, and get me where I wanna go with teh projects I still need to tuck away the lower structures left and right below the firewall. I was going to let them hang out like a 32, but they are too much, right? I was thinking cut them, bend them, and make them the actual body mounts.
Here are a couple pics of mine. I wasn't smart enough to do it like Crusty Nut's link above, so I lost a few inches of foot room. If I was going to do it again, I would definitely keep the leg room. My cab is stretched 4 inches front to back and the foot room is still a little short, and I'm only 5' 9" tall.
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