is there anyway of narrowing the front of a G body 1 to 2 in on both sides?? would camaro spindles help? called Fatman , no luck there thought i could pay $800 and solve the problem
well they stuck a g body frame under the 41 olds and it is all welded to the car and my wheels are almost even with the inside of the modified fenders, cant do more wheel offset, dont want to cut the hell out of the car the body is mounted nice to the front[welded] a in or 2woould be nice bought a 9 in rear think it was 57 in cant rember it was last summer they got a impala rear which is too wide as i want to run skirts it is 2 in narrower on each side
Here's a problem. If the body is indeed welded to the frame, you WILL have issues with cracking and the like. Reason?? The frame moves independently of the body, which is why there are rubber mounts at all mount locations. Now if you have both rubber AND weld, well, someone just wasn't thinking this through. It would be like rubber mounting the engine and solid mounting the trans - just doesn't make sense, does it?? I know it probably looks good, but it is not engineered well, so you'll have to change it anyway, so put in the right sub and have at it. Cosmo
whats your time worth? The narrow control arms will look pretty good about half way through cutting that clip out...
well being i am 67 year old i just am not too wild on completely chopping up something i paid enough for if i cut the frame out and took everything out it will be a $10 dollar pile of parts and i have already threw a model a away that pissed me off
Bingo. And you may step the A-arm to lower a 1" or 2, add 2" drop spindle leave the coil full length-shock too.
any chance chevell a arms fit got some lower ones from my stock car days i also have a camaro stub with tubular uppers that i could cut off you sure get some strange problems i got a ford car that i had to put 1 1/2 in spacers to get the wheels out in the hole to make it look beter it a lot easier going out than in i really dont have to lower the front as the wheels sit about right in the hole and i want it to be a taildragger, proabbly going to bag the rear tried bags in the springs but that did not work out too well did buy bag mounts for both ends but really want to run springs on the front sure miss all the springs front end parts that i threw and now they sure are costly and hard to find
Greetings! The way I see it you have three choices; you could re-clip the car with an S-10 stub (53" hub-to-hub, but the steering box is 19" in front of the axle centerline), use a Must II stub, or build a straight-axle g***er. Best of luck with your project.
Cut in down the middle after it is set in a jig to keep straight,weld it back,box in with plate and weld again, go to salvage and find a narrower sway bar.I did mine in a 50 chevy pickup and it drove great.
You might be able to weld in some lower ball joint sleeves/bushings and shorten up the a-frames about an inch or so without too much trouble. http://stockcarproducts.com/susp7.htm scroll down to see the sleeves. Al in TN
thanks to all who give ideas, will do some measuring when i get the tarp off this spring and go from there gonna check if a s 10 frame would fit think the stere will be in front of fenders they doubled the frame on most factory splices so it is reinforced good now any other ideas out there post them up, some i dont like but i want this car to motate so I gota do something to make it work i think this car is gonna be a nice old style car and look good gonna do a engine swap and see if i can move the engine ahead to rad and squeeze a turbo 700r4 in it i have been buying parts so i can put it mostly together when i start on it
the frame appears to be buick regal 1986 off the keytag dated 1984 on frame 1941 olds 98 club coupe this thing is 18 ft long chaneled 1 in with new steel floor all wheel openings reraidused closed up about 6 in all the way around with roled tube around the edge custom fibergl*** rockers rear bumper custom fibergl***w 4 tailights and 2 exhaust openings liscense rescesed and molded rain gutters removed rear fenders welded aned seams removed no rust really needs little bodywork to be ready i have no idea where the fibergl*** components come from but they are nice all gl*** intact except door gl*** and it has power motors and division bar has been removed door solenoids bear claw latches
1) Why do you need/want to narrow? 2) If it's only 1-2 inch(es) on each side would tubular a-arms and/or custom rotors (may have to go with 2 pc) be out of the question?
well i got 165 tires now and some styled wheels that wont hold the small beauty rings ,the narrow tires are not too esetically pleasing so i would like to find the one or 2 in and live with that and be happy gona look for those hubs any more to go than the initials?? never herd of them before did find SFI automotive interesting stuff there found the 2 piece rotors
I had a 69 Camaro sub frame in my 41 Chevy. Tires like yours were too close to fender. I had a welder narrow the A arms 1". He cut them just behind the ball joint and lapped them with a weld on both ends of the lapp. Ran it like that for 50K miles OK.
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