How much HP can a model A readend take

I am considering putting a stock 283 sbc and a powerglide in a stock model A chassis. I want to use the stock rearend for a while. I'm sure i can get by with it, just wondering if anyone has had any luck, good or bad. Please no opinions!

 

150 or so? i've seen them break. i guess if you feather the gas every time you go you could make it last. not much fun in that though.

 

Stock rearend is torque tube. No V8 powerglide is torque tube. They don't work together, at least not without a lot of fab work and labor.

For the expense of making the two work together, a set of brackets and a u-pick late model rear the right width would solve the problem permanently.

 

speed way makes a kit to get rid of the torque tube, if you really want to do this. i would run a newer rear myself.

 

Thanks ya'll. I do know about the open drive kit from speedway.

 

I'm not going that route now.

 

They handled Olds, Hemi, and Nailheads for me and my pals in the late 50s/early 60s. Of course they were fifty years newer then. Sheared many axle keys, but never broke anything else. I guess the skinny tires and their lack of bite helped too. Would I use one today? Not likely given the choices.

 

The Speedway conversion is $369.99 this money will go a long way toward a Maverick RE install now, and no redo in the future.

 

Hot Rod Works costs about the same and will give better customer support.

 

I've used a Model A rearend behind a flathead without any problems but wouldn't with anything with more power. If you are going to run a powerglide and convert to an open drive line I would use a later open drive line rearend. You could use the rearend with the 283 adapted to an early V8 closed drive trans but they won't take a lot of abuse either.

 

You will only be throwing good money after bad,,the cost of the conversion will far exceed what a 8" or 9" Ford rear axle cost and you won't break it with a 283. HRP

 

This is what i got. a running 28 chassis. I want to run around a few miles here and there. I know about the cost of converting to open drive and all, added to that will be changing over to juice brakes, i know i need that too, but i want the drivability of a more modern engine. and change as little as posible.

 

So if you are not going to change to open drive on the A axle and you want juice brakes but not a new axle, what are your plans?

 

No. I said " i want to drive this coupe with a more drivable engine" I want t change little else. Then i relized the manual brake pedal is on the bell housing. So i guess i just as well go with a modern rear axle and juice the front too.

 

You have a running Model A ,what is wrong with leaving ,and enjoying it that way.
I would love to have one that runs (have three that do not)
Go to the Banger group hear on the H.A.M.B. and ask what they think.,
If you were starting with just a body,then I would do the v-8 conversion.
The old bangers can make some power,and you wont break everything.

 

This ^^^^

One thing that can be done to strengthen an A rear is to install a bolt that almost touches the ring. This will stop it trying to climb over the pinion under load. There is a detailed thread here someplace about it.

 

Accually O.Hove i have another model a frame. If i were gonna change to modern rear and juice front and engine and tranny change. i'd start from scratch. Don't much care for the banger.
Furthermore, when i was looking to buy a running chassis, i couldn't find 1 for what everybody says mine is worth.....go figure. If i could get my money back for the running chassis, i'd build my other frame up. I want about 3k without the wheels and tires. I think that alot of people think that they can buy these "all day long for $1500". I'll take 2 at that, anytime!

 

You want to put a big engine in it, but don't want to box the frame, put brakes on so you can actually stop with it, or put a rearend in it that will handle the power?


Sell everything today for any price and buy a damn honda or something.

 

Hey newyork, I ain't said nothin about not wantin to box the frame. And I ain't no Honda guy. Your Opinion i regaurded as just that, an OPINION! This here ain't my first rodeo.

 

I know your not doing it anymore...but just for sake of argument I don't think the open drive kit will work on anything early 32-back.

 

A up to '32 from what i am reading i think
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Ford-Model-A-Open-Drive-Conversion-Kit,40133.html

 

I sure as fuck can't tell from the questions you're asking. Either do it right or don't do it all, you want to kill yourself taking shortcuts that's your problem but it shoudn't be someone else's when you crash into them or suddenly your car won't go because the rearend is broke and they run over you.

I mean did you read what you're even saying? "i want the drivability of a more modern engine. and change as little as posible." The banger that's 70 years old is too unreliable to use... but the 70 year old rearend, is fine?

You want drivability, put in an overdrive trans and back the rear gear ratio down some, a 283 and powerglide is going to be screaming just as hard at highway speeds as the banger would be.

 

Oh wow, didn't know they were making them for the early tapered pinion! I stand corrected

 

Don't half ass it. Juice brakes a must, change the rear end.you're wasting time and money trying to adapt things.go to the junk yard.get some used parts and drive it and not sorry about it after.

And listen to these guys.they know what they are talking about.rustynewyorker has a Very valid point.

 

Thanks to all the answers based on experience! I gonna leave the banger in that chassis. I will build the other frame up for a rod. The original post asked only for a horsepower estimate based on experience. I didn't mean to pry the sideliners off the couch with it.

 

Just as a thought, could you use an early steel powerglide from the early 50s when the chevys had torque tube? just make one propeller shaft out of the two?
Just an idea without further investigation into chevys, but might be a cheap and clean looking solution?

 

That's interesting. I thought that without a bearing to support the back of the pinion, it relied a lot on the drive shaft leverage to keep it in line. I have a B rear end where the pinion has tried to climb the ring gear and is like a banana at that end!

 

Heck i may just build me an adaptor, to put a SBC to the model A tranny! then i got engine i want and keep the brake pedal. I can box the front of the frame, with the engine out, weld in engine mounts, lakes style headers, ect. It's not the goin fast thing that i want, it's the smooth idle and vacuum advance, of a modern engine that i'm after. 283ci 2v prob. ain't but 150-160 hp.

 

Well lets see, the raven broke his model A rear with a stock low performance 305.

You really want the later V-8 rear and don't put too much tire on it.

Oh in answer to your question 60 HP is probably a stretch on one.