Hey guys need some help got a 50 shoebox with a 65 mustang radiator motor and Trans in it motor is built has a nice cam in it so my timing is advance running a flex fan new thermostate 180 .... but if I run the car for anything longer then 20miles on the freeway it starts to clime to like 210 220 and if I get off and get stuck in stop and go traffic it will go till 230 235 and if I start moving it will drop to 220 don't now what to do had a 65 mustang before same set up except stock motor and wouldn't over heat on the freeway. Also don't now history of radiator... Thinking of just putting a new radiator and electric fan. Any thoughts .... Thanks in advance
I would start by buying a steel blade fan,,the flex fans are no good,,but in actuality you don't really need a fan at speed,,setting in traffic is when a good fan does the job. What radiator do you have in the 50? HRP
New rad might be in order. Are you running a fan shroud? I just put a ho in my 50 ,180 stat, new 66 mustang rad and it runs a perfect 180 so far. But that was in the garage 90 degrees heat. Haven't finished the car so it's not in road groove yet. If i was to do it again i'd go with a 67-68 rad
The same thing happened in my '52 Chevy. I flushed the radiator but it was still happening. Turns out, the vacuum advance was stuck and I was always running retarded. Swap distributors and now she runs cool.
58 year old radiator is most likely your major problem,,pull it and take it to a shop and have it checked out,,let them vat it. HRP
Get a new 3 core radiator. Flush the block. Do the proper refilling. Add water wetter. New thermostat. And get a shroud. How updated is the engine? An old water pump could pose a threat as well. And get yourself a fan clutch if u have room. Stops the fan from spinning while air rushes through at High speed. And I agree... Steel fan will just fine
since you have problems at all ranges of speed start with the basics by checking vacuum, distributor working properly, carb running lean, plugs good-not showing possible internal engine problem, compression good, drain radiator-water/coolant clean/fresh-if not remove and have radiator checked, run proper radiator cap, make sure have proper water to coolant mixture-run coolant additive, thermostat not working properly-replace with "big mouth"-high flow, have correct style overflow tank - not just a puke tank, , complete fan shroud around fan, fan proper distance from radiator, no front openings that allows incoming air to byp*** radiator-have good rubber seal between radiator and hood, using heater-if not then run hose from upper heater hose outlet to water pump for better circulation, engine oil changed recently, etc
Fan is about 1 to 1 1/2 inch away and motor has been built recently so thanks am start with a reg fan and see what happens but for sure am get a new radiator don't now the history of it so am put a new one
probably a partially clogged radiator. Next time you drive it and shut it off put your hand on the center of the radiator and see if its cold,warm or hot. Radiators tend to start clogging in the center and work thier way to the edges. if its cold in the center just get a new radiator. Fan shroud or fans have nothing to do with cooling at highway speeds.
Get a aluminum radiator, if you plan on keeping the car. It's s great investment. Then put a electric fan with a switch on it and those problems will be gone .
If it over heats going down the road but not in the driveway then it is most likely a clogged radiator. The fan is for stop lights. I had it happen to me on a DD. It was a cross flow but the bottom was not flowing well when checked with an infrared thermometer. It would idle all day long with no load but under load pulling the car it would overheat. Another time a friends 70 C10 over heated going to Charlotte. Both were factory systems. If your system was working fine and it started to over heat all of a sudden get the radiator cleaned. Before you spend a bunch of money, borrow or buy a cheap infrared thermometer. A great tool for your tool box. You can get a cheap one for around 50 bucks.
Aluminum radiators are no better than copper/br***,,,just cheaper and definitely not traditional. HRP
Depends on the radiator....there are cheap ****py aluminum radiators that don't cool.....then there are really good ones that do what they advertise. A buddy bought a cheap stamped $140 3 row....nothing but problems. I bought one from speed cooling for $199 and it is a work of art ....billet filler neck with cap and all welded and it cools great. So impressed I bought one for my BB camaro.
Other side of the coin,,I paid ridicules money almost 500 bucks for a Griffin aluminum radiator since they were just a few miles from my home and I talked personally with the owner. This was almost 20 years ago when Griffin was known primarily for building aluminum radiators for Nascar,,My 40 Ford convertible was one of the first radiators they built for a street car,,it also came with a life time guarantee. That radiator never kept my car cool,,after two years arguing with them,sometimes heated,literately & figuratively the owner ask me to take it out and they would replace it. He took the radiator over to a band saw and cut it where the cooling tubes fit into the bottom tank and again at the top tank,,,most of the tubes were clogged with the epoxy that was used to seal the tank,,,no wonder it ran hot! The replacement radiator was fine for two years,,then at the nationals it ran hot again,,Griffin was there I went directly to them and talked to them about getting it repaired,,no such luck,,I bought a Walker Radiator and put it in the car in the motel parking lot. Griffin now longer honors a lifetime warranty but the man I sold the 39 convertible to still has that Walker Radiator in the car and he has never had a problem,,but if he ever did he can get it repaired at any small town radiator shop. And just to drive my point home,,I presently have 3 cars with Walker copper/br*** radiators,the wagons is 3 years old,the pickup is 8 years old and the sedans is 18 years old. Granted copper/br*** radiators are more expensive but they last and again,,the are traditional. HRP
Good advice here: Ditch the flex fan, add a shroud and get the radiator checked out. I would do those first, also toss in a new t-stat, check the belts and make the hoses aren't collapsing. Another thing, make sure the top of the radiator is higher than the cylinder heads. If not you may need to add a surge tank. Bob
So found like a quarter of an inch of mud goo in the reservoir am change the radiator. Any suggestions on brand will like to keep the same 65 mustang size and style. And thanks for everyone's help. Another random question but I see this site on my I phone how do I post pics thanks in advance
Here are the ones offered by the company I bought both of mine from. Very happy with them. http://www.speedcooling.com/1964-1965-1966-ford-mustang-aluminum-radiator/cat_21.html
125 bucks from Rock auto parts on line. 65 V8 Mustang replacement. For a stock replacement radiator I don't think you need to spend big bucks. JMO I'm a cheapskate. More money for the cool ****.
Hope the radiator fixs the problem. If not you may have the intake gaskets in wrong,and hey are blocking the coolent flow. Let us know Russ
Feedback I've gotten from other Shoebox guys is that mid 60's Mustang rads in Shoeboxes don't cool right . Don't ask me why , since they cool fine in Mustangs . I've heard it from several Shoebox guys though ... That's why I put a Fox-Body 'Stang rad in MY Shoebox & my friend's Shoebox (both with SBF's) -they'll do the job . They're big , they're crossflow , and fit pretty well with only minor mods . Pics in my build thread below within the last couple pages . If you're sticking with the same year Mustang rad , I'd get a new copper 3-row rad , or maybe a 2-row oval tube rad . Let us know how it works out . If it only heats up while driving , the fan has nothing to do with it .
Do you have aftermarket heads? If you do did you drill steam holes in the block to line up with the heads?
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