Help! I am going to install an 8.8" explorer rearend in my 36 Ford pickup, and was wondering if anyone else has done that. Specifically, my concern is the connecting of the two different types of driveshafts. I have 700R4 trans, which utilizes ujoints, and the explorer uses a flat flange with ujoints. Any good tips on how best to do this? Email alrivera@valornet.com with responses, please. thx folks, Al
Plan on spending around $400 on having a new drive shaft made and balanced with the correct ends for your install.
I have the same rear end in my 36 ford truck. You will need to have a driveshaft made for it but you will also have a different bolt pattern on the rear wheels unless you are changing the fronts to 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern.
Yikes, $400? I’d go to a junkyard and get a drive shaft out of an Explorer and cut the forward end off a Chevy truck drive shaft. Then take it home and mock it up to determine how long a drive shaft I needed. Take it to a driveline shop that works on big trucks and say I need this end welded to this shaft and I need it to be X inches long from center of U joint to center of U joint and please balance it when you're done. I've not had one done in many years but I'll be it can be done for $50 or less if you’re resourceful. The last one I had done was $15; it took the guy about 15 minutes. Of course that was 20 years ago but I still can’t see spending anywhere near $100 much less $400 for such a simple job. And what's with emailing the responses??? Why wouldn't you just watch your thread for the responses? Unless maybe you're fishing in the HAMB for email addresses.
I have a mustang 2 front end on my pickup with 5 lug pattern (ford) . I was told the explorer and the m2 shared the same bolt pattern....did I goof?
ok guys, maybe I need to introuce myself. I am new to hamb, although once in a while i happen on to it. I have a 36 ford pu that has a questionable rear end now. I drive it all over the place, and took the opportunity to get discs in the back, as the Ford 9" with discs are hard to find in my neck of the woods, and are pricey to buy. I am not kewl that the bolt patterns amy not be the same as what I have on. I have a set of Boyd Coddingtons on it, and they have 2 different bolt patterns on them, but I will bet the other set is Chevy pattern.....woe is me, if they don't fit....
I have an explorer rearend in my car. I got a explorer junkyard driveshaft and had it cut done. New u joints installed and balanced. It was $200 total cost including the driveshaft. Bryan
I used the 8.8 Explorer in my 36 sedan. I just took the Ford flange, from the Explorer driveshaft, and the GM input shaft to a driveline company. They did the rest for about $225. How are you setting up the disc brakes?
Hey 36Delux I just did the same rear end swap in my shoebox. I even used two short side axels and took 3" out of it on the long side. I'm running a th350. I bought a complete driveline out of an elco that was longer than I needed. I had the rear yoke flange type on the rear end. I had the driveline shortened, u joint center to u joint center, new front u joint and new rear adapter joint to go from Chevy to ford and was 200 out the door done same day. Driveline cost me 40. Mine is on bags so I left 1/4" for plunge when car is all the way down. Hope this helps.
Ditto, having a new shaft made,....I run that rear behind a "RUG" 3 speed toploader, and it was $200 for the new, balanced driveshaft. Worth every penny. 4TTRUK
Hang around for a while, you'll likely ditch the boyds that are on there. Do you have front discs? What's your master cylinder set up now? Got any pics of the car?
Folks, Thanks for all of the good tips! I had discs on the front and shoes on the rear, but with this I will go to full discs around. I have the two compartment master cylinder system, with 10 and 2 pound valves on the front and back. I know that the two pounder is made for the drum brakes. Will I need to trade master cylinder/brake booster or can I use the same one with all around discs?
got one in my 53 stude. i shortened the long side, got another short axle from LKQ, had a driveshaft made for 199.00. works great and its beefy.oh yea, bought a new 2000 explorer master cyl.
For your disc's all around you will want a proportioning valve to ease the pressure on the rears, and use 2lb. residual valves not 10lb.
tnich123 and 36Delux, what did you do to resolve the offset pinion angle? not sure how much it is, or how much is acceptable not going to hotrod it, but want it right...tnx
Mine has some offset but it has caused me no problem. My factory expedition has some offset on it as well. As long as the u-joints aren't in any kind of bind I wouldn't think you would have a problem with it.
Just to reiterate what has been suggested. You do want a master cylinder that has the proper bore for discs all around. Are you going to narrow the housing? It will be a bit wide without it. I tried to talk myself out of doing it but couldn't. What offset you end up with you live with, but you can control the pinion angle. There is plenty written about that by guys much smarter than I am. It's worth a look.
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