What to use to drill an axle???

I think this was covered last month but it is still good info !!!

 

tell you what, if it was, I typed the wrong key words into the search function.

Thank you all for contributing.

 

The center pulley is the slow speed attachment allows you to drop the speed to a crawl. Cost me about $20 to make and $18 of it was the pulley and belts.

I actually posted how to make this over at the garage journal. Let me see if I can find the post

 

If you check in here it will show you what it is and give you some ideas.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46694&highlight=slow+speed&page=2

 

/\ /\ /\ /\ What he said . . . .

My Heat Exchanger shops use these to drill heavy 70 ksi steel vessel shells.

And the Cool Mist (air / water / soluble oil mixture) is the way to keep it cool and lubed up to fight a long time!!!

Take care, K

 

awesome!

 

Man, you can learn a lot here...

Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app

 

and one more bump just to see what else we come up with

 

My drill press goes down to 200 RPM's. Is that slow enough to use a hole saw on steel & aluminum?

 

Indexable spade drills work great also... These drills use a TiN coated carbide tip that attach with 2 small screws... Also, make sure the work piece is mounted solid in the vice...

And wear safety gl***es!!!!!!...

 

Roto-broach makes drilling any through hole REALLY easy. I have access to the ones' we have at work, but I'd bet you could rent one through any industrial tool rental.

 

Roto-broach really works very well.



Ago

 

I know them by the name that says what they really are which is annular cutters.

My mag based drill and 1 1/8" annular cutter is what I used for my forged axle.

A squirt bottle filled with water soluable oil as coolant is all you need to cool and prolong the cutters life.

 

We got a long way through today drilling our axle. We have 4 holes left. 21 total. So I will post pix soon as I get it all done on monday. Thanks for all of the tips. Drill press worked wonders. Never actually had the chance to use one. Slowed it down as much as I could and used about 1.5 cans of PB blast.

 

what is the standard safe spacing for the holes most people go with? ive seen several varieties on this post. 7/8 hole to 1 1/4 hole. spacing looks to be from 1inch apart to almost 1/4 apart.

 

I used drill press with drill bit clamped down to bed worked out fine no problems also did the wish bones the same way used them for my traction bars looked great for abunch of used parts.

 

here is how ours turned out. 22 holes in total.

 

not cheap but by far the best thing to use

http://www.mcmaster.com/#hole-cutter-drill-bits/=l84ez5

 

i was under the impression that blocks were verbotten on front axles (driven or otherwise)?

just curious

matt

 

Verbotten? Meaning???

I have seen quite a few setups that way. Was never told not to. Seen more than a few setup sthis way. Hell. I have even seen extended shackles. But, we don't want to get stupid high with the front of it.

 

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=439377

verboten meaning forbidden. the cornering forces on the blocks in the front are immense. anyway not trying to troll just what I've rad and been told, thought i would bring it up so you had all the info.

keep up the good work on the f100

matt

 

well ****. Ok. Got to look into that. Thanks. Never heard of any of these problems till now. Go to check this out more.

 

Looks cool. I would go with new leaf springs for a 4 wheel drive F250. They will probably raise the truck up as much as the stock leaf and blocks.

 

Oil is not needed when drilling cast iron because the high carbon content acts as a lubricant.

 

Yeah, except most axles are forged steel, with a handful of aftermarket cast steel ones.