<STYLE></STYLE>Thought this might be of some interest. It was sent to me by my machinist buddy who has a plant out at the Las Vegas Motor Speedway. Not sure if it's been published on the HAMB before, if so - my apologies. Subject: Cheap Alternative for penetrating oil Machinist's Workshop MagT recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports the break out torque values on rusted nuts using the tested penetrating oils. Results are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. *Penetrating oils ....Average torque load to loosen* No Oil used .................. 516 pounds WD-40 ........................... 238 pounds PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds Liquid Wrench ............ 127 pounds Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds ATF*-Acetone mix......... 53 pounds The ATF*-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50% - 50% by volume automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price! Steve from Godwin-Singer says that the ATF*-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF* and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix
I've used the Acetone & ATF for a few year now. It does work very well. I was originally using Kroil and buying the gallon cans, but the price kept going up. The homebrewed stuff works and is cheap so it was a no-brainer switch.
I have access to a salt fog test tank at my work and calibrated dial-type torque wrenches. I think what I'll do is conduct my own test with a steel plate and some off-t******lf grade 5 bolts and nuts. I have WD-40, PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench and I'll whip up some ATF/Acetone mix. The test would involve putting the plate/bolts/nuts ***embly into the tank for 48 hours and taking it out and letting it sit for another 48 hours. Any Aerospace guys out there will know this is a standard MIL-STD-810 salt fog test which is pretty harsh. I'll post my results when I do it!
It's weird- this is going around the internet like a meme but I can't find the original article. I was very curious to see what their 'scientifically rusted bolts' were. Anyone have a link to the ACTUAL article, and not a cut-paste-nigerian-prince style post?
I have always used PB Blaster with great results. Which is funny to me because anytime I ever used Liquid Wrench that stuff ****ed and never helped!
Discussion of then same topic that was posted yesterday: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8545182#post8545182 My post from that discussion: That has been circulating around the internet for quite a while. Long before that happened I had used solvent ATF. Although it does work, the ratings are based on a test that is faulty. I read the original posting where this came from. The way the test was done does not reflect how well each fluid actually frees frozen fasteners.
As was mentioned in the other thread on this, don't forget to add the heat and wax method to this also.
That's why I wanted to see the ******** article... I'm not doubting that acetone/atf is a good tip. I'm definately going to try it next time I have something rusty to pull apart. But I call ******** on all of the numbers until I see the research.
I have cleaned my compe***ion spark plugs for years using Ketone and have had great success with stove oil for a penetrating solution. I use Vinegar as a rust remover too. Normbc9
I would like to see the test using parafin wax which I have found to be best of anything, taught to me by an old timer back in the 60's
Awesome. So- having read through the article, I notice one problem with this test. It appears to have been conducted only ONCE per "product". I'd like to see this confirmed. Anyone have access to all these products?
GM 1052627 heat valve/EGR lube has never failed me. Even on nasty, rusty H-D exhaust nuts n' bolts. Available at most dealers....
Has you guys tryed BG In-Force ? Works good for me smells like a Brake Free product I used years ago that worked good but have never found for some time.
I like and use a product that is made by LPS that is called KB-88, works great. Spray it on let it set a while and it will work its way into the rusty parts.
Looks like 3 samples per product in the picture and the result s were listed as an average so it had to be more than one sample per product. They didn't use threads but straight pins in holes. It wasn't torque but pressure that it took to push the pin out. It would be good to have each result instead of the average to see if one test raised the average or if all three tests for each product were similar.
At my work they use pb blaster exclusively, my old employer preferred wd-40. I work on rusted old *** pumping units exposed to the elements 24/7 365. Some of the units have been in the field for the last 70-80 years. I prefer WD40 but have seen no difference between the 2 above. I will have to try the acetone atf mix sometime. Are you guys who use the atf/acetone mix applying it with spray bottles?
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