Tapped my emulsion tubes, soaked the carb in Berrymans overnight, some penetrating oil and some propane and I'm at about the limit I want to twist on the 6-32 nut, neither tube is budging. What's next? Not much love out of the two idle jets either so far. Thanks.
Argh, I just have to get this done, bleed the brakes and I'm ready for my first drive in the new rod. I'm going to put it back together, 'cause it did run, go for a drive around the block a couple times, realize I have 50 other things to do, then pull it off and send it to Max. Thanks!
What I would do...tap bottom of tube deeper, run in #6 allthead or a longish screw. I'd say 1/2" of tapping...at that point threads are probably stronger than the screw. Put on a fender washer so it bears against whole rim of hole, then a couple of regular washers as oiled bearings. Tighten a nut down on it, put on some tension. Move upstairs and drop a piece of rod into tube, resting on the screw, and tap that with a hammer. Go back and forth...see if you can turn the nut a bit, hammer a bit...if no sudden reults soak in carb cleaner again with tension on your puller nut.
Thanks Bruce, I will try that. My tap felt like it was bottoming on something after about 3-4 turns so I didn't go any further. I'll try another tap. It's sitting now with tension on the draw nut, penetrating oil and a good heating. On an unrelated note, I bought a rear end drum to drum, in Milwaukee, that's more to ship than I paid for it. It'd be nice if there was a place to post travel plans and willingness to haul car stuff.
There should not be any real barrier in there, so run a brush through to check for dead weevils or whatever, be careful and back tap out to clear the area every turn or two.
I got 'em out, and the idle jets too. Very crusty, soaking now. Like you said, punch from the top, cinch the nut, tap... Been a day of heat and penetrating oil but I even got the brake bleeders loose too. Thanks again for the tip.
I've had to drill idle jets...when the slot goes past hopeless, keep on twisting away till slot is thoroughly destroyed. Then veryveryvery carefully find center as well as your eye can do and ***** punch. Drill, increase drill size slowly, the blasted thing will release its grip from the drilling. Obviously you want it to do that before you get too big on drill, and so far it always has.
If I squint, close my eyes and channel myself to New Jersey, it's almost as though I'm in Bruce's shop, holding his hand!!!
I'll have to use Uncle Max next time, for she runs sweet as can be. Before it would start and idle with a prime, rev up with some coaxing, then it went dead on the front and rear pots on one side and the middle two on the other so I knew it was carburetion. Truck moved today under it's own power, if only out of the garage and back, still no brakes. I just coughed up 50 bucks for the Aliiance, you guys have been great to this newbie, thanks again.
Sounds like some dislodged dirt... A. Clean everything with multiple substances to attack grease, varnish, mineralized fuel deposits, just plain dirt left behind when other stuff dissolve. mouse droppings, dead weevils, etc. Gas for both main and idle feeds go through main jets, so a speck there can totally shut down one side. B. Ask Max about his secret wonder tool for blowing out the p***ages through the wells under bowl with compressed air. Lacking mechanized air, I work mine with a one wifepower 1935 Ford toolkit tire pump. It gets out a big puff of dust from carbs that I would have sworn were spotless...
Is there an adjustment for the choke? I need a bit more choke flap and less rpm increase when I first move the choke lever.
There isn't any formal adjustment there, and I'd never thought of adjusting the action... but... note that the lever moves the throttle by positive hookup but moves the choke via a liitle spring. Shorter, stiffer spring perhaps?? Should be an easy and cheap thing to experiment with at least. The soft spring is presumably one of the carb's compensation mechanisms for people who drive out without slacking off the choke soon enough, so pay attention to getting choke backed down ASAP as you drive. California?? Choke??
Ah, I am missing the spring...is it 57 or 69 here? http://www.tocmp.com/stuff/Stromberg97/stbrg97_2.jpg I need a new accelerator pump too, is that something that retrofits to something I can get locally?
My operating creed this week is: Carburetors First, Business Second. Or CFBS for short. That means, if you can identify the two springs, cuz I can't damwell see them on your too-small-chart, I'll send you the springs and pump for free. Just to get you back on the road!
That is a good creed. Mine has been hot rod first, wife second, but it can't last much longer. I was missing the spring that pulls the choke plate towards the linkage, without it the throttle opened up a whole bunch before the choke plate kicked in. I found a light spring and it's working well. The accelerator pump doesn't put out a spray like a Holley, more of a dribble, and I did replace the check valve. I have so many things to sort right now it's not a priority, and I must say I'm finding driving around without mufflers or a windshield quite enjoyable. Not sure my neighbors feel the same. Thanks much for the offer Unc.
I bought off my wife for a while with Stromberg jewelry...bought some cheap jewelry thingies at craft store, hooked up two jets as earrings, put a nice shiny chrome Wright Tool jet wrench on necklace. Gets compliments from rodders, non-rodders look at the truncated cross wrench and ask something like "What Religion is that for??" The jets were too big to use, but you will get punched out if you say "Hey Lady, your jets are too fat!"
Good idea, then you have your jet wrench along when you go out. I get my wife's earrings in the fishing lure isle. Got my 97 dialed in pretty good, 50 jets. Now I'm thinking about a second one but two 97s on a v8-60 might be a bit much and I can't afford the smaller carbs.
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