36" sounds like for a stove that is not safety approved, as far as i know all wood stoves installed in the US have to be both safety and EPA approved, some states are 7 grams per hour while others are 4.5 grams per hour for EPA, for safety its like 160 degrees above room temp for all surounding surfaces, things change and i may be off a little.
You need at least some visqueen on the ceiling to hold the heat in and a ceiling fan. Yours is a smaller version of the one in my house and has the dampner built in also.
Do you know anyone at a bowling alley ? Pins are made from great burning hardwood, only problem is the outside finish on the newer ones. Years back we had a friend that was in charge of maintainance at a 48 lane alley , we got cases of those pins , chipped cracked or whatever . Burned down to fine ash.
The only thing I'll add to all the good advice about safety and wood burning is that you have to learn your particular stove and chimney system. Even somebody with your identical stove can't tell you how to operate it. Because your pipe comes straight up off the top I think you will benefit from a damper in the pipe. When and how much to set the damper and the draft control on the front of the stove is something you have to get a feel for. When I had a chimney cleaning business I spent time with customers talking about smart and efficient woodstove use and how to minimize creosote buildup. There's a whole lot more to learn and do for somebody that, up until then, only knew how to tweak the thermostat on the wall. Chimneys work on the rising warm air effect and the warmer the flu g***es are the faster they flow. Cresosote forms from the moisture in the smoke condensing on the chimney walls. Most moisture is driven out of the log in the first half of the burning process so you want the hottest fire in the beginning. I found that the worst problems came from the practice of loading the stove (especially with less than fully seasoned or pitchy wood) just before bedtime and choking the stove back so it would burn through the night. Your chimney, with 2 ft. above the flashing, may or may not be high enough. It depends on how close the roof ridge is and wind patterns and trees or other obstacales nearby. Back puffing and smoking into the room when the stove door is open are signs of sluggish draft. You'll have a "getting acquianted" period with your new little house guest in the corner, learning his eating and evacuating habits but eventually you'll come to know diet requirments for any given shop session -from a fast s**** pallet fire to 8 inch oak rounds.
You are a smart man, I had to add onto my chimney twice to get it high enough to work and THEN buy a vacuum cap due to wind conditions/steep roof/hill next to house. You will only puff up the shop once before you fix it!
one more thing i would like to add, most newer stoves have a way to use outside air for combustion, without being hooked up to outside air you have to pull combustion air from around windows and door seals, for every cubic foot of air that goes up your flue that same amout of air has to enter the room where your stove is located, that is alot of air, it can be like trying to **** fuel out of a gas tank without a vent, your stove will burn alot better and you won't have to heat up all that air you ****ed in other places.
Old geezers rule!! "Age and treachery will win over youth and enthusiasim every time'!! Ak Miller, rest his soul!!
let me change the channel for second in case everyone dosn't know about these. it's a Dayton G30. very small forced air fan turn it on, its hot. turn it off it's not. has a thermostat hangs on the ceiling out of the way. don't have to store wood. will absolutly run me out of my 30x30, i keep it on low. won't burn the garage down. cost $250 online. i've had this thing for 3 years. i've bragged on it ever since. but, you do have to have 220v.this one is the 5000w. they make one smaller and one that is 7500w sorry for the interuption.
All the information about spacing the stove away from walls and other items is something you need to heed,it can set your garage on fire for certain..... I really do not think the small 40K/BTU heater is at all an adequate size wood heater for your shop.....should be looking at least 75-100,000BTU units.....
Check with your local zoning official or fire marshal, if you haven't already. Many places require an inspection before you can use the stove. They may have some ideas that can help you run it better. The inspection is usually required for the insurance company, too. My parents ran two stoves while I was growing up and my father-in-law runs two as well (one in living room, larger one in ba*****t.) Kept us warm many times when the power went out. I sort of miss cutting and splitting wood. It's good exercise.
I heat a 30 x 60 shop with wood, you have to think this out. I run plastic sheeting across the rafters, put a fan at the rafter level and 1 on the stove, have big stove and the chimney is 3' higher than the place 10' away to allow for the draft and when its cold it won't draft right until it warms up. I burn the best wood I can get and leave the wood as big as will fit in the stove, I have a damper bur rarely use it. Wood can be good if done right, if done wrong you will still stay warm but it will be by moving wood instead of burning it.
Get a magnetic stove thermometer.Stoves should burn between 450-500 degrees.Over that temp you're wasting wood,under that you're not getting much heat.Your stove will run well,and burn clean at that temp.Good rule of thumb is use the air control,and if you can't control the temp with that alone,use your damper.If the gl*** stays clean,your chimney will stay clean also.Mike
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