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Projects My Apache...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Shane Spencer, Sep 15, 2012.

  1. Ruff 1
    Joined: Jan 16, 2013
    Posts: 2

    Ruff 1
    Member

    Nice work !!!
     
  2. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Yeah i totally understand ya bam. My grandpa, uncle and dad are super super detail oriented. Uncle is an jet crew chief in the air force and grandfather worked on tanks. i try to get past the super picky details on something like this. If it was a super bitchin custom, chopped, channeled, shaved and really showin off the body work id be more picky. But its gonna be a truck, driven alot and used to haul bikes, parts, and misc stuff all over so i can live with it being less than perfect in bare metal. It will take a little bit of body filler in spots, but not a lot at all. I totally admire a car like cole fosters 36 ford, dead perfect bitchin bodywork. But that just isnt this kinda build. I want it nice, but not afraid to park it in a city parking garage while im at a concert

    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     
  3. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Lmao nice finds for the wallet!!! I need to make the floor extension next to cover the hole. I may spray it with liner as well, sounds like a good idea. That design just seems so dumb in stock form, its pretty much designed to create rust lmao.

    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     
  4. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Also bam, i dont have an account yet over there but your truck is gonna be sick. That color choice is gonna pop really well. Stainless lines look good too

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  5. 4444Design
    Joined: Aug 25, 2012
    Posts: 292

    4444Design
    Member

    cool project so far

    lookin' forward to updates
     
  6. BAM55
    Joined: Nov 2, 2012
    Posts: 26

    BAM55
    Member

    GreenGrenade,

    I also cut the inner cab corners short when I replaced mine. Its nothing more than a moister trap in my opinion. I did this to the inside and like Joe Pass I will be seam sealing and than undercoating the interior as well.
    [​IMG]

    Thanks for the comments on my truck and really man I can't believe the response it gets for an unfinished truck its mind blowing at times. I think I'm done with all the mods but with me you never know.lol
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2013
  7. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Lmao theres always something you forget to modify untill the last second. Happens to all of us ! And i agree man, the corner pocket has to be one of the stupidest factory designs ever. Pretty much made to trap crud and moisture and cause rust issues as fast as possible lmao

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  8. You have to remember that's the allure of these old trucks, big doors and cab corners that drop below the frame tying in the inside step to the raised floor, Thats the 50's and 60's design that I like. Its crazy stuff like this that is gone away and now we have Toyota's....So all of you guys rock on and keep doing that nice work...
     
  9. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    i totally agree with the trucks overall design. just that corner and the way they tied the inner cab corner into the outer just never made sense. i love the stock design, my buddy who does mini truck fab argued with me for almost 30 minutes that my truck was "bodydropped" lol. i had to explain that was the stock floor , rockers, and steps inside. i agree, you just dont see that stuff anymore lol.
     
  10. Well, that just got added to the future mods list. My drip rails are rusty pieces of shit, lol.... That looks super clean!
     
  11. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Same story on the other side..... Pocket full of shit. Almost got it finished. Not quite tho. Idk if ill get much done this weekend. Whole state and city is hyped for football, and i refuse to miss out on that action. Few pics ......

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    Attached Files:

  12. BAM55
    Joined: Nov 2, 2012
    Posts: 26

    BAM55
    Member

    Very nice work. Good job buddy good job.
     
  13. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Thanks man. Those are my first two patch panels ever. Well i did the passenger toeboard, but no one will see that. So as far as im concerned these are my first two patch panels. Lol. It seems its all in the panel alignment, the better more consistent gap, the better the end result. Thats been the experience so far

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  14. BAM55
    Joined: Nov 2, 2012
    Posts: 26

    BAM55
    Member

    Well you are an old pro now. You are correct panel fitment, consistent gaps, and keeping the metal as cool as possible is the key.
     
  15. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    how long do you wait between tacks? i try to do about 2 inches of consecutive tacks and let each tack cool so the metal isnt red hot
     
  16. BAM55
    Joined: Nov 2, 2012
    Posts: 26

    BAM55
    Member

    That is good. This is what I do when mig welding a panel. I get the panel to fit as perfect as possible and I tack it in place about every 2 ot 3 inches and grind those welds. Than I tack a in between those tacks and grind those welds and start my light hammer and dolly work if I have access to the rear. This work between welding is allowing the welds to cool as I continue to work. So I would grind previous tacks so that I'm doing something while the newer tacks are cooling. I do this until I complete the patch. That way I'm almost done with the metal finishing. I hope that makes sense.

    This is the pancaked hood inside and out. Huge welding area but doing the hammer and dolly work paid dividends very little filler was needed.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    This is it with black epoxy primer.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2013
  17. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Thats an awesome method. Ill be trying that next on the door bottoms. Im outta gas till monday tho lol

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  18. TheDayDreamer
    Joined: Jan 4, 2013
    Posts: 10

    TheDayDreamer
    Member
    from Phoenix

    How much gap do you guys try to maintain, maybe 1/8"? You don't want a tight butt joint correct? I've done lots of metal fab work but never body panel work where the material is so sensitive to heat.
     
  19. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Im a total rookie at this. Im not sure what the "correct answer" is but it seems when the gap about as thick as 16 ga sheetmetal it welds easiest. Too wide a gap and it seems easier to burn through trying to "fill" the gap. The weld also seems to lay flatter when its a tight gap. i try to judge it by penetration on the backside as well

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  20. BAM55
    Joined: Nov 2, 2012
    Posts: 26

    BAM55
    Member

    I don't know if this question was asked of me are GreenGrenade, but if he does not mind I will give an answer. I was asked this question on another site so I will just post my answer here.

    Panel fitment is important so get that panel to fit the best you can. When butt welding try to have a nice gap, if the metal is slightly touching that's great. Your gaps should not be wider then the welding wire. Shaped your patch to perfection before you start welding, and if you have access to the back grind your welds on both sides and use you hammer on dolly to stretch the metal back to its original shape (welding causes shrinkage, sometimes very little but always) as you are welding it in.

    You don't run a bead on sheetmetal you tack weld and move around alot to keep the metal cool. What I do is tack the piece in and grind my welds use my hammer and dolly, tack some more, grind, hammer and dolly until the patch is completely welded in. This allows the metal to cool and I'm also continuously working.

    Oh yeah when your hammer on dolly to stretch the metal, hammer only the HAZ (heat affected zone). The haz is the area where the metal changed colors from the heat. If there is warping from welding getting rid of that warping is all in the HAZ even though the warpage may be outside of the HAZ it could even be on the other side of the panel. Stretch the HAZ and the warpage will disappear.

    I hope this helps.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2013
  21. BAM55
    Joined: Nov 2, 2012
    Posts: 26

    BAM55
    Member

    We all began as rookies but like I said before I've seen so called pros who could learn for you. Great work rookie.lol
     
  22. tjet
    Joined: Mar 16, 2009
    Posts: 1,350

    tjet
    Member
    1. Early Hemi Tech

    Good idea!!

    I don't know how many times I've had to put my hand down into that hole to retrieve things :eek:

    Sometimes it was like this...

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=g36lYOdlZ-k#t=13s

    Did you add a drain hole?
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2013
  23. BAM55
    Joined: Nov 2, 2012
    Posts: 26

    BAM55
    Member

    I did not put a drain hole but of course that would work if you chose to do so.
     
  24. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Thanks bam, man you should check out the " terrible welds" thread on here for some good laughs. But then, at a certain point you quit laughing when you realize people actually drive vehicles with those frightening welds on em lol. Also check out the incredible welds thread. Absolutely killer stuff. Jesse has some sick welds in there, and idk if your familiar with brian bass on here, but his fab work is absolutely incredible. Check out his build threads.

    Also as far as a drain hole both of my patches from brothers came with a hole drilled already, but i dont think its that necesarry with the inner cab corner cut out. Theres nothing to really hold water there without the inner

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  25. sqrlnts
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 314

    sqrlnts
    Member

    Great looking first patch panel Green!!! I will have to check out the worst weld threads to see if any of my handywork is in there!


    Great advice BAM, thanks for sharing!
     
  26. BAM55
    Joined: Nov 2, 2012
    Posts: 26

    BAM55
    Member

    Your welcome. I just hope GreenGenade does not mind me posting to his thread. I also wish I wouldn't make so many grammar errors.lol But my mind is faster than my typing speed I guess.lol
     
  27. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Hell no man, post away. Someone could use the info, whether its me, the guys who have been followin the build or maybe another guy who stumbles across the thread. It cant do anything but help. And as far as grammar goes mine is absolutely terrible. Most of my posts are done with the mobile app so i throw alot of terrible texting habits in my posts without realizing it lol


    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     
  28. Buzznut
    Joined: May 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,349

    Buzznut
    Member

    Sorry I've been MIA...started a new job and I now work 10 hrs a day, 5 days a week and drive 1.5 hrs per day on top of that.

    Welding is looking great bro! Your truck is coming along nicely.
     
  29. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,052

    chaddilac
    Member

    How's the column going? I got Jeff's painted and put one last coat on and it wrinkled up, guess it was too cold? Pissed me off now I have to sand it and repaint it!! :(
     
  30. Buzznut
    Joined: May 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,349

    Buzznut
    Member

    What kind of paint, and how long between coats?
     

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