Weird No leaks, parts both new? What type ? Bench bled the master? What are we working on ? Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
I leave the slave unconnected to the linkage so that the air bubbles can return up the line to the MC. let it sit for a while, few minutes. then cycle the pedal to return the air to the MC. it's a pain but it works.
thee can be a problem sometimes it works to reverse bleed and pump fluid through the bleeder with a pump oil can or bleeder
i always bleed opposite of brakes... open bleeder, push down pedal slowly, hold down pedal, close bleeder , release pedal... 3-4 times should be all it takes unless you have an underlying probem...
i have tried gravity bleeding , pump and bleed , clutch pedal no change ??? thank you for all the feed back, jack
Make sure the slave is below the master when bleeding, I have to disconnect mine from the bracket and hold it below the master, no problem
Attach a clear hose to the bleeder, you'd be surprised how many tiny bubbles (sorry Don Ho) will come out with each bleed. You might think there's no air if you do it without a hose, but there is. Never pump a clutch pedal when bleeding, it only aerates the fluid, causing more bubbles. Have your assistant go slow but steady with the pedal and be patient. As long as the master cylinder is above the slave and neither is leaking, it should be quick and painless. If you think you've got it all out, but the clutch still doesn't release fully, try holding the pedal down, if it slowly bleeds down, you have a leak somewhere, either internally, like a worn or scored piston, or externally like a fluid leak.
Follow your line from the MC to the Slave and make sure, at no point, that it rises above the clutch MC on it's way down to the slave. Sometimes, when the slave is on the passenger side, the hydraulic line runs higher than the MC when it jumps the engine on the firewall—air pocket issues. That is usually an import design, but who knows what your set-up is... I don't think you've mentioned... And, I always try to replace Slaves and M/C's together. If one is tired the other is bound to be in the same shape. Lastly, I vacuum bleed everything. There are super-cheap ones at Harbor Freight that work fine. Power bleeding is good too. Brake fluid should be replaced every few years to keep the system healthy anyway so get all that old shit out of there. Brake fluid draws in moisture because it's hygroscopic (even through rubber flex lines) and the water accumulates at the lowest point in the system, then rusts it out. Keep that fluid fresh and you parts will last much longer. Good luck.
once again thank you, question can i bleed with cap from master off , or does it have to a total closed system ?
I would bleed with the cap loose ... For one man operation, I bleed with a pry-bar between the seat and the depressed clutch pedal, bleed then reload, one stroke at a time , no pumping
Another thing, I assume this is either a fabbed system or aftermarket. Having said that, if you make a mark with a felt pen, you can at least see if you're making progress. Mark it, measure it, bleed it, re-measure and see if you gain something. I thought mine was fully bled, but I still wasn't getting the full stroke, so I attached the clear hose, re-bled it, and after seeing lots of little bubbles, I re-measured and found I gained another 3/8 inch of stroke. Just enough to go from "no-worky" to "worky-right"
vacuum bleeding mine and all im getting is bubbles lots of em never ending went through a whole bottle of fluid ?
Aircoup, on our race car with a hydraulic throw out bearing we always need to put the bleed hose in a jar of brake fluid and pump the pedal. Then close it and it works. May work for u even thou it's a different type system.
I use a Phoenix bleeding system. I've tried all of the methods described. I've gotten frustrated.I've wasted too much time.Now I just get the job done and smile.....and say "wasn't that easy?".
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